johnceggleston

not in neutral at around 2k? is it cv related??

i had one once where someone had the hold up the pull lever in the car while i released the latch in the front. a real pain but i could get it open. i finally figured out a way to do it by my self using a string closed in the door/ window to hold the pull lever. but yours sounds like it need pb blaster.

nothing helps the life of a trans more than changing the fluid. save your money on the additives, just use the right fluid and change it more often than specified. some one posted a while back that they do a drain and fill on the trans every time they do a drain and fill on the engine oil. this may sound excessive but if you are doing it your self it only adds the cost of ~gallon of ATF at every oil change.

go to harbor freight and get an automotive stethoscope. it's about 5$. you will be able to pin point the noise in minutes. it isn't brain surgery quality but it works. http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html

if you are replacing the tone rings you are going to have to replace the bearings as well, which isn't a bad thing it's just more work and parts. have you considered used knuckles. you can't remove the tone rings without pulling the hubs. and i don't think you want to reinstall the hubs on the existing bearings, do you? shouldn't you replace them?

look here: http://opposedforces.com/parts

the tanks are all 60 liters, or 15.9 gallons. but i have felt my car sputtering on turns and only filling up with 15.4 gallons. as far as what should the mpg be, that is kind of like asking ''how long should a mans legs be?'' it all depends on the way you drive and how long since a tune up. but 25 isn't bad. otheres will tell you they get more. i don't know what the rating is. you may be able to see it on one of the government web sites or http://www.cars101.com , and FWD will be better than AWD.

the easiest way to get more out of your engine would be to remove all the emissions crap and use a different computer to run it. but since you can't do that and get your car to pass most? state inspections, you're stuck. i'd be interested to know what the hp is on a jdm or european engine. same ? different? i don't know what car looks like, but i have heard you will gain more from removing the roof rack than modifying the engine. of course that has not stopped folks from making changes they wanted to make.

perfect match, jump on it.

you can use ant auto trans out of a 96 - 98 outback GT or LSI, as long as it came stock with a 2.5L engine. outback would be your first choice obviously. GT and LSi have the same trans but the speedo gears are different, matching the smaller tires, so your speedo will be off. you could also use a legacy L auto trans if you swap in the rear diff. (ej22 impezas too.) again speedo error. i don't know what the 2.5L imprezas used so i can't really say for sure. but it is likely that 2.5L engines had the 4.44 final drive ratio you need. you can confirm this at http://opposedforces.com/parts .the ring and pinion gear ratio in in the ''train'' section.

these cars do not back fire when the timing is right. the intake valves are closed before the fuel and spark are combined. tell us how you checked the timing. what timing marks did you use?

i have skimmed back through the posts and i don't see where this has been confirmed. did i miss it?

they will probably bolt in, but that is where it ends. 00 and up are phase 2 trans the harness and connector is different. so no. actually ... maybe. i have never read of any one doing it , but in theory, you could sort out the wires which correspond to your 98 TCU, solder on a 98 connector and go for it. but it will be a crap shoot. never done before, i don't think.

www.car-part.com sort your search by distance to save on shipping and then by price to see how cheap you can find it. i found one this week for a 96 lego for 35$.

you know you are a subie owner if ..... when you buy a ''new'' sube for 800$ yoiu only post pics of the engine. sounds like a deal to me, but you may have some minor issues, most do at that mileage. if you put a couple of hundred into it and drive it a couple of years that's a deal. if you drive lots longer all the better. it would be nice to know what year the engine is, but you may not ever know. i'd plan on the timing belt in the near future. it is due at 180k. look for lits on ebay sold by ''theimportexperts''. good kits for the belt, idlers, and water pump.

it doesn't sound like a fuel problem. have you checked the timing marks on the cams?

you may want to review here how you are replacing your head gaskets. three times is a lot. have you had the heads resurfaced? are you using subaru gaskets? how long are the gaskets lasting before they fail? more info please.

you do not want the green or the black diagnostic connectors connected when driving. unplug them.

thy should be a direct swap.

dave, this is very smart. how many times did you mess it up before you thought of this trick??? now if i can just remember it.

with out driving the car it is really hard to determine what the cause is, or even what the symptoms are. sometimes '' does it go squeake or squalk?'' just isn't good enough. i would suggest to the original poster that he go to an empty parking lot and drive in tight slow circles at idle speed. if the car bucks, jumps, binds, or needs more than a little gas to make the circle then he has torque bind. if it drives smooth and freely, then maybe it is a steering problem.

you can get something from the auto parts store, not an exact match. for that you would have to go to subaru.

i used the seals from theimportexperts on my first go around and 25k later i have some oil leaking, front and rear. i didn't know any better. i hope i didn't knick anything when removing the crank seal and i didn't replace the rear main so that leak may be the valve cover or cam cap??? my second time around, different car, i bought the timing kit w/ water pump from the ''experts'' and got a gasket kit from mizumoto or what ever they are called. that engine just went in and i am hopeful. (i still didn't know any better.) i didn't use very many of the gaskets in the kit but it was still cheaper than the local parts store. i only used the exhaust gaskets, and the front seals, crank, cam, and o rings. the only plus to using cheap seals on the front of the engine is you do not have to pull it to replace them when they fail. but for a few dollars, you can buy subaru and not have to replace them. a cheap or incorrectly installed rear main seal will be a real headache to deal with. i think next time, i will buy all of my seals from subarugenuineparts.com, when i order my oil seperator plate and oil pump o-ring. some stuff has to come from subaru so may as well combined shipping and get it all at once.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/steering/oil_pump/ hope this helps. but i would think a whine would indicate low fluid or a bearing problem in the pump. so o rings may fix the leak but will it rrepair the damage, if there is any? call these guys, and have them ship it to you. it takes 30 - 40 minutes to install. 2002 Power Steering Pump/Motor Subaru LegacyGT, AWD BDE3879 $35 McCarty Auto Parts USA-GA(Hazlehurst) Request_Quote 912-375-2813 / 912-375-2675 Request_Insurance_Quote EDIT: i guess it is possible, but i don't think likely, that the belt is causing the noise since it got soaked???? you might consider changing it. but for the price of the used pump, new fluid and the belt you can be fixed and driving again. the cost will still be less than an hour at most repair shops.

anything is possible. does the fwd light come on when you put in the fuse? my son's 95 has an intermittent duty c. the fuse in all the time and some times it cures the problem and lights up the FWD and some times it doesn't. so i pulled the rear section of the drive shaft. i don't see how the duty c could cause torque bind just a little with the fuse in and the fwd lit. either it disengages the rear wheels or it doesn't, but who knows. if there is gunk in there limiting or slowing the bleed off of the fluid pressure then maybe it could cause some binding with the fuse in. how did the fluid look? there are 2 more likely possibilities in my opinion: something else is causing what ever it is that you are feeling or you are overly sensitive to the issue. maybe let someone else, another subie owner, test drive it. but sometimes you have to let a problem get worse so it can be diagnosed. i'd drive it and fix it when it needs it & change the atf more often.