johnceggleston

if the belts are making noise, you should be able to run it for a little while with out the belts. too long and you will drain the battery, but if the lights, fan, radio are all off you'll be ok for a while. maybe enough to hear the other sounds. ditto on the open hose somewhere.

if the rear wheels are in the air and the hand brake is OFF, it should turn freely. no fluid pressure , no rear wheel engagement. i was wondering if the drive shaft was catching on the rear shaft seal?? maybe something in the seal moved, failed. measure how far the shaft will go in, and see if it is the same depth as the shaft seal.

how many miles?? the 98 ej22 is almost the same engine as the 90 - 96 non-interference engine, ALMOST. it is an interference engine and if the t-belt fails you will need a head job, $$$. BUT if you change the t-belt, water pump and all the idlers including the tension idler, as scheduled, you don't have much to worry about. i think the 98 is still on a 60k belt interval. so do the math on the miles. ask the seller, and use your best judgment. if the seller has service receipts for a recent belt change you should be good. but if the shop only did the belt, not the idlers, you could be in for trouble. it is very hard to know unless the bill lists all the parts used. when these engines get over 120k - 150k miles it is not unusual for them to start leaking oil. replacing all front seals, 2 cam shaft, 1 crank shaft, 1 oil pump o-ring, 2 cam cap o-rings, will correct this and is usually done with the timing belt. the only way to be sure is to do the belt your self, or have it done, ~$600 - $800. depending who you use. drive it in tight circles at idle speed. see if it jumps, binds or chirps. this could be torque bind. repairable but it will cost you, $$$. fairly rare in 5 speeds, but it can happen, especially if it was driven with mis-matched tires. i saw the ad, it sounds like a good car, depending on the miles.

you will have to remove the crank pulley to see the key way. if the key way is at 6 o'clock the pistons are out of the way and you have no worries. the cams and valves may jump when you remove the belt, especially the driver side, but with the pistons out of the way you shouldn't have any trouble. if the valves always jump they will go to the closed, safe, position.

didn't you just go through this a bit ago?? with 3 kids i think i'd lock them in a room with one set of keys and tell them the last one standing gets a car, the other two are on their own. my condolences. oh yeah, if you are going to have a fleet of cars it would be best to have them all the same make, model and year group. that way one parts car will serve them all. it sounds like you should have a parts car, or two.

you said you checked the cam timing marks, what about the crank timing mark? the compression being different from one side to the other sounds like timing to me. unless you marked the crank pulley, you can't see the crank timing mark without pulling the pulley off. hope this helps, sorry to state the obvious.

yes, the low beam can go and the high beam still be good. single bulb ~5$, i think. if searching EGR add a *, EGR*. some one has this quote in their signature, "there is no such thing as a dumb question, but they are easier to answer."

any body ever heard of these guys or their super gasket? http://www.smart-service.com/blog/2010/03/which-head-gasket-is-best-for-a-subaru

i'd burp it again. that's what it sounds like it needs. and if that doesn't help i'd remove the t-stat for a test run and see if it moves coolant then. that should tell you something.

i dont know about grooves so good luck with that. but it sounds like you have some binding. especially if it releases in neutral or when you turn the car off. did you try changing the fluid before you did the rear extension housing?? my first experience with this was due to GUNK in the trans housing. specifically in the rear extension housing clogging up the duty c fluid passage ways. so if it is gunk i would change the fluid again. (at some point this becomes redundant and wasteful, but i can't hurt .)

since 2 of them do the same thing, or more correctly fail to, i'd look at the wiring diagram. maybe there is a thermostat involved, it only heats when it's below 32* f.

the cars i've seen with heated front windshield area for the wipers had a button in the console with the heated seat switches.

so now that you are on the road to fixing this car, leave the neg battery cable off overnight to clear the codes. address whatever comes back.

unless you have an after market radiator the vent is on the top of the rad, passenger side at the top hose. it has phillips head slots. see pic.

typicallyy the wires going to the waher pumps are part of a harness and not replaceable, at least not easily. and usually it is not the wire or connector causing the problem. it is probably the pump. they are pretty easy to remove, tank and pumps as a unit. when you disconnect the tubes from the pumps they will piss out the fluid in the tank. once you have the tank out you can feed 12v to the ''bad''pump to see if it will works. the front pump is lower on the tank. its probably bad. you may be able to get a generic replacement from the local parts store. if the hoses were longer you could fit the front washer hose on to the rear washer pump but i tried that. plus you would have to plug the other pump so it doesn't leak out all of the fluid. you may find the whole tank and pumps at a parts salvage yard near you. search http://www.car-part.com and sort by distance. if you have to have it shipped to you, then sort by price.

several subaru sensors, at least in the 90s , can work poorly before throwing a code and failing completely. such as knock sensors, o2 sensors and maf sensors. i don't know the threshold of what throws a code but each of those sensors, and maybe, probably, others can cause problems without throwing a code.

the 99 sus auto trans should be very very very similar tot the 99 outback trans which has a code number TZ1A2ZJEBA. as mentioned it has more bolt holes than earlier auto trans but that is no big deal. it also has a different wire connector / harness with more speed sensors in the trans. so i do not consider it an easy swap with earlier ej auto trans that had code numbers starting with TZ102Z2xxx. but you may / should be able to swap in later trans, 00 - 04. they have the same bolt holes and i'm pretty sure the same wire harness / connector. and as long as you stay away from turbos, if they had them in those years, and H6 cars you should be ok. so look for an outback or legacy 00 - 04, no turbo. EDIT: in 95 - 99 the last 2 or 3 letters in the code number refer to the model of car the trans goes in so they can vary. but if the first 6 or 7 characters are the same the trans should work. but still double check the final drive ratio. and then checkout www.opposedforces.com/patrs/ to see if the wire harness and ring & pinion are the same.

one of the lines from the t goes to the passenger strut tower and has a small gray? cylinder inline. it feeds 2 doodads bolted on the strut tower. one of the other lines goes down under the intake and i think it connects up to the charcoal canister in the rear by way of a small metal line that runs under the intake . it feeds in on the driver side with next to the fuel line, pretty sure. the 3rd leg of the t comes up and IIRC it connects to a nipple on the side of the intake, or maybe the throttle body. so which line are you missing?? the one going to the strut tower should be pretty obvious. i would look for the one under the intake it's probably only a few inches long like the top line. i have used windshield wiper fluid line to replace lost or cut vac lines. i don't know if that is a no-no.

what happens if you remove / disconnect the steering column parking light switch? or maybe try removing one lit bulb at a time until something changes. i like the idea of pulling fuses until the lights go out, then put that one back and keep pulling fuses to see if another one kills the lights. it's probably the switch on the turn signal stalk.

i think you would have to have the oil checked out to really know, unless there is metal stuff in it. heads should go to the machine shop to be check, and surfaced if needed. i was quoted 20$ per to be cleaned and checked, 47$ per to be surfaced. if the engine is running well now the block should be ok. and probably not worth it to have it done any way. not price wise so much but way easier for a 2.2L swap. same reason regarding splitting the block. it can be done but 2.2s are cheap. if you wanted a good 2.5L engine, to rebuild top half, i would look for one with a busted timing belt. repair and reseal and then you are good to go. not a garrantee against previous overheating but at least it isn't being sold because of it.

yep, sounds pretty severe. how long have you had the car?

if you didn't properly "burp" the radiator when you refilled it after the t-stat replacement that could be causing your problem. but since something (overheating?) prompted you to replace that and the cap it does not look good. remove the cap (and vent on the other side,) and fill the rad. start the engine and let it run until the tamp gauge reaches normal temp. this should purge the air out of the system. refill the rad and cap and seal. fill the over flow to the max line and you should be good. unless you have another problem. it may help to have the front end of the car uphill, but not required. but having it down hill would be a mistake. haveing the vent open when filling at the cap will allow more air to escape and help the process. it may be helpful to fill the last bit from the small vent on the driver side of the rad.

the key way is boogered widened, in the bolt removal direction. if you use a new key, crank sprocket and pulley (new means not damaged, used) you can put it back together and the sprocket will not move when you tighten it. the key way should be good in the tightening direction. and if you tighten it enough, 125 ft lbs (i use 140) it will not loosen. the key way gets boogered because the bolt is not tight enough. the key is not supposed to HOLD the sprocket or pulley against the rotational force of the crank, that's the bolts job. the key way is primarily a locator for installing the sprocket. (the cams have a locator pin.) if the bolt is tight enough, the key way never sees any real force.

are you talking about the dash light for the tach, next to the speedo?? the instrument cluster comes out pretty easily, 4 screws i think, 2 high and 2 low. i seem to have trouble manuvering the cluster unit out in between the dash and steering wheel, but i can get it. the bulbs go in and out from the back side, no biggie. but the clearance is a little tight when trying to reconnect the wires on the back side when re-installing, but again it is doable. i haven't tried , don't remember trying, to replace a bulb without pulling the cluster completely out. i guess if you can lean it forward enough to gain access to the bulb in question then maybe.....

probably true, but when you get out into the 04s?? and beyond, all bets are off. i think.