johnceggleston

what dan said above. plus, these seat belts were / are part of the US requirement for a safer cars. these automatic seat belts were a step the auto makers took before they started using air bags. (when you closed the door the belt you saw in the pic would slide up to the B pliar positioning it self automatically to protect the occupant.you still had to manually connect the lap part of the belt.) the whole idea was to protect even the dummys who chose not to wear a seat belt, now some 15 years later, they are giving tickets to the drivers who do not wear seat belts.

for those of you who are 12v auto electrical gurus this will be no surprise, but i have just learned something. my battery has been "leaking" on and corroding my hold down a little bit all the time, apparently for years. recently it did it so much it oozed down onto my ATF lines, the metal ones bolted to the frame under the battery. now they are corroding. i'll have to clean and or replace them. (what do you think?) so i concluded my alt was overcharging. i put my stethoscope on it and it is making some noise. not a lot but more than my GT. so i pull it off and swap in another one i had. i located a rebuild shop and off i go. well the alt i pulled is fine, 14.3v without a load and 100 amps when needed. but i was told if my battery is bad or slightly bad , maybe a cell going bad, the alt will over charge to compensate. news to me but it makes sense. also a good working alt will only produce the amount of juice the system actually needs. the greater the need the more it produces. therefore a bad battery causes it to put out more juice. turn on the headlights, it makes more juice. i also learned that if the alt doesn't have a good ground it will / can over charge, or if the block ground is missing, or the trans ground. all the wires / plugs on the alt are positives, the ground is through the housing and mounting bracket. also a charging alt can make noise, a low whining. who knew? i don't remember if i bought this battery or if it came with the 97 OBW when i bought in 12/05, but whatever it's problem, it has been around a long time. i'm surprised it has not yet failed completely. so any way, learning about alts. BTW, the price for a rebuild is $28 labor plus parts. this sounds reasonable unless the parts are 100$. but even then, less risk than a reman from the local parts store.

you need a relay. there was a good thread last mont or so that describes the fix. basically the problem is that there is not enough juice getting to the starter solenoid through the ignition wiring. or not enough to engage the solenoid. by adding a relay, the juice coming from the ignition switch activates the new relay and it then sends juice directly from the battery to the solenoid. the fix is easy, cheap and most of all it works. the other possible solution is replacing the solenoid contacts. but if you do the relay you probably do not need to do that. but as wtdash wrote today in his thread, "...so I'm thinking I had a bad ground all along." i assume you checked your connections already. try searching here for the 'starter relay fix' maybe or 'starterrelayfix' or ''starterrelay* ". i can't remember the tagline i gave it. this is a fairly common problem and there is good info on the fix.

how long have you had the car? any service history available? how many miles? i didn't really mean to give you hope by suggesting the burp. i just wanted to eliminate possibilities. there is a good chance if you fill and burp it correctly it will not overheat for a month, maybe more maybe less. but if it is bad head gaskets it will come back. the link in my post above will shed a lot of light on how HGs fail. everyone who has been through this has held out hope that it was a bad t-stat or blocked something. almost all were disappointed.

this is a pretty classic symptom of bad head gasket. it is possible it isn't but i'd bet it is . what car and year?? 2.5L engines 96 - 99 are prone to this problem. re-fill the cooling system and burp it properly (do a search for burp or burping) and the next time it over heats, check for bubbles in the radiator over flow reservoir, NOT THE RADIATOR. bubbles indicate bad head gaskets. good info here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104353&highlight=badheadgasket*

yes, you can drive it like that for as long as the duty c lasts, assuming the fuse eliminates the symptoms. but, you run the risk of wearing out the duty c a little earlier. (you can buy them online for ~$100, so it will add to the repair cost, if you kill it prematurely, when you get around to doing it.) it will not save you any money on gas with the fuse in. or you can remove the rear section of the drive shaft and drive it forever. it will still not save you any gas money this way either. if you remove the rear axles and re-install the outer axle stubs in the hubs, and remove the rear diff and rear section of drive shaft, you MAY see some gas savings. but probably see just as much savings by removing the roof rack.

you're welcome but you should really thank zues marine, he wrote it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/swaybar-faq-134646.html

do the the solar chargers work? are they worth it?

it sounds a little bit like a torque bind symptom to me. try stopping in N before you go to P. if the trans unloads in N you have torque bind. EDIT: duh, you said it does this. do a search, lots of info on it here. to confirm it, test drive in slow, idling, tight circles to see if it drives smoothly or is jumpy, and binding, and needs some gas to go. then check to see if all 4 tires are the same brand, size, tread design, air pressure, and have the same amount of tread left. mis-matched tires can cause / contribute to TB.

yes

there are some engine malfunctions that will throw an AT Temp light code. i think TPS and IAC are ones that can / will throw an AT light, MAF too. the flashing AT light means there is a code in the TCU, flashing at start up means there was a fault during the last drive cycle. if it does not flash on the next start up then the fault did not repeat itself.

compare the connectors, if they match up then it's easy, maybe. if not you will have wire sorting to do. but the wires are just the link to the ecu, that is what runs the engine. and if the engine does not have the required egr valve, you will get a CEL. now if you are running an independent ecu, well.......

you can test it yourself, let the air out of one of your front tires, down to 20 lbs. or so and drive around town. see if you feel a difference.

new new + old

the difference in compression may mean the timing has jumped. this may also explain the sluggishness. the t-belt was due at 180k miles. you can pull the cam timing covers to check the timing marks. the engine is non-interference, so no damage done.

what makes you think it's gear oil? how about axle / cv boot grease on the exhaust? also check the the axle seals on the trans.

one of the bolt holes is for the cover bolt. is there a second hole? i don't think anything else goes there. what engine, year?

i have 24k on a complete set from them including the cam and crank seals with no worries. my first WP gasket from them was oem, but my last one was cardboard.

why not, will it break??

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-electric-impact-wrench-45252.html one of the things i learned while using it, putting on my lug nits at the end. it will start to hammer almost before it has applied any real amount of torque. i applied a quick burst to run up the lug nuts. i was concerned i might over tighten them. so i then used my torque wrench to tighten them. in all cases the nuts needed almost a 1/4 turn to reach 90 ft lbs. this was reassuring since over torquing lug nuts has bent hubs for some cars in the past.

i needed to replace both front axles on my 97obw, bad boots. i have a donor car with "new" looking axles so my plan was to use them. last weekend when i tried to remove an axle nut i did not have my breaker bar so i used my torque wrench. i set it for the max, 250 ft pounds and when it clicked, i quit. i read a recent thread about using a 3/4" breaker bar and an impact reducer so i went to harbor freight to buy . they had a 3/4" ratchet, but not a breaker bar. so instead o bought an electric impact gun/drill/wrench 50$ and boy is it great. it made short order of all 4 axle nuts and on 2 of the 4 axles it was great to have for the axle puller. it took a while for the hammering to get the axle to move but it finally did. i was surprised that it had more trouble with one of the strut bolts than any of the axle bolts. i also picked up a set of impact deep sockets for 20$, 14mm - 32mm. it was a successful day. new tools, woo hoo!

with the sway bar attached to the control arm the control arm is spring loaded. this makes it a littlke difficult to bang it loose. or even pry it loose. but if you are replacing the ball joint then a pickle fork it the way to go. the castle nut on the ball joint and the castle nut on the tie rod end are both 19mm, the same socket and threads as the lug nuts. so the last time i was swapping a knuckle and no pickle fork, i unbolted the sway bar link, removed the castle nut on the ball joint and threaded on a lug nut, an old one to protect the threads leaving it a little loose. then i place a jack under the ball joint/ lug nut combo and jacked it up and bang on the control arm. lower the jack and the control arm falls away. i have also used lug nut to protect the threads on the tie rod end bolt . usually i can just bang on the side of the knuckle and the rod end bolt will pop out. but sometime i have to bang down on the bolt and the lug nut does a better job of protecting the threads than the castle nuts do. during reassembly i usually do the lower half first, including the sway bar end link and the strut to knuckle bolts last.

i'll bet your cruise control does not work either. i have the same problem, all 3 items go through the steering column / clock spring to the steering wheel. so that's where i'm going to look for a fix. it may require replacing the clock spring. i've never done it but it sounds like the it's not too hard. you just have to disconnect the battery and wait for the air bag to become dead? i have other things on my plate so you may correct your before i tackle mine. let me know how it turns out. there is a recent thread which i started that has a link to a ''how to'' on a different forum.

there's a fix for the speedo. add a ground wire to the circuit board. i found it on another site and posted it hrer. search "speedofix" or 99speedofix. the temp gage could be a -stat or maybe a bad connection on the cluster. when you have the speedo out clean the contacts.