johnceggleston

at some point around 01 - 02, subaru change the design of the sprockets they put on the engines. i don't know why. the sprockets trigger the cam and crank sensors, and the computer MUST see the info it is looking for, or the engine will not run. so in short the sprockets must match the computer. you need to swap the driver side cam sprocket, and the crank sprocket.

cam and crank sprockets should not be an issue. i don't think the 95 ej18 has a knock sensor, i don't know how that relates.

look here for parts: remember you want 03 timing sprockets or gears. you already have the 01 stuff. http://www.car-part.com

what kind of gasket do you have? i doubt that sealant is going to help the gasket. either the gasket seals, or the sealant seals, but you don't need both. usually sealant on a gasket just holds the gasket in place so you can bolt it up. the belt looks old. carry with you on your trip: water and /or coolant on your trip. hose clamps & duct tape, the combination can get you to a parts store. tape it ans then clamp it . go slow to a parts store. 2 qt. of oil, a credit card, and a AAA card, maybe.

my 01 ej25 spun a rod bearing at 82k miles. so it can happen. but it happens less in the 90s ej22 than on other subarus or other cars. ANY ej22 90 - 98 block will bolt under those heads.

how sure are you that it was rod knock. the new style tensioners will sound just like rod knock. but i guess it does not matter now. happy motoring!!!

well, regardless of the intake needing to be swapped, the ej22 will not run in the 03 car as is. the cam and crank sprockets MUST be swapped for the 03 sprockets.. where did you get the 01 ej22?

i'm not sure the intake harness will plug in. but i'm not sure it will not either. plus i think the 03 needs EGR, or something. but the 03 intake will bolt right on to your 01 heads. if there is an EGR pipe that went from the 03 intake to the 03 head, and since the 01 ej22 does not have EGR, you can use the workaround to make the ECU happy. it is if you need to have EGR. and as gary said, swap the driver side cam sprocket and the crank sprocket.

yes, interference engine. this is the vin, the V indicates it is a 97. run a carfax on the vin and learn what you can.

when the engine is off, the rear wheels are not conne4cted to the main body of the trans. so the trans main shafts and clutches are not turning, only the rear output shaft and one side of the trans fer clutch are turning with the rear drive shaft. the danger is that there is no lubrication for any bearing on the spinning parts unless the engine is running and turning the trans oil pump. this would make the bearing on your rear output shaft at risk. probably not the transfer clutch discs themselves. ???? i doubt 7 miles at 40mph was enough to burn up the bearing, but maybe.?? plus, when on the dolly, more ATF moves to the rear of the trans. that may help some.

it all depends on the final drive ratios. if neither car has the ej25, and both cars have the same trans, auto vs. manual, you should be able to swap the rear diff. but, why? what is wrong with the 99 rear diff. and finally, i am completely unaware that they use different axles. to the best of my knowledge, the legacy and the impreza have always used the same axles, 95+. (excluding high end imprezas like the WRX.)

i do not know why, but i know they need to be. it is specified by the factory engineers.

i'm not sure about the blower fan , but i think i remember it has to do with resisters in the fan it self, but some one should know. the radio is a likely cause of your current problem in my opinion. after market radio installs oftwen cause problems, like blown ''illumination modules''. it seems yours just took some time to develop. replacing the burnt unit without finding the cause could cause it to blow again, immediately. you might consider adding ''comprehensive'' to your insurance policy if you DON'T find the cause. if your car burns up you get paid.

pull to the left when driving straight? when braking? front end alignment would be my starting point. even before replacement axles.

as mentioned, yes, and no. are the engines identical, no. will they swap and run with no issues, yes, with conditions. like : if swapping the 99 ej25 into the 96 car, you will want ot use the 96 intake manifold on the 99 block to eliminate vac line issues. likewise, if swapping the 96 engine into a 99 car, use the 99 intake manifold on the 96 long block. it will save some headaches. the charcoal canisters are in different locations and the manifold swap will eliminate any problems.

you may have to drain the system down and refill correctly. (not all of the following will apply to your situation.)

FYI, if the front speed sensor, VSS2, is bad you will not have AWD. if the computer cannot compare front and rear speed sensors, it cannot engage power to the rear.

the 99 forester needs a 99 - 00 ej22 or a 00 - 04 ej25 SOHC.

i don't think the handshake works on obd2 cars. you have to gorund out a pin on a diagnostic connector under the dash. drive the car as best you can, and then stop and restart it. if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times, it means there is a trouble code stored in the TCU. the flashing indicates there was an electrical fault in the trans the LAST time it was driven.

unless you like pulling things apart for fun, you need to determine if the mechanics are working. but as mentioned, you will need both axles in. but if you want to drive it, you will need both axles in anyway. even a torn boot clicking axle will work. unplug the TCU jack up one side of the car, both wheels front and rear. shift the trans yo N. start the car. hand brake off. mark both up tires in the same relative position. rotate one up tire by hand. the other up tire should rotate EXACTLy like the one you move. if no, the transfer clutch is bad.

the clue is you need a used trans. check the fluid level? if low, you can try adding some, but i doubt it will help. if full, buy a used trans. do you have a ''check engine'' light? do yo have a flashing AT Temp light at start up?

this is not an easy swap. and it will never be a CEL-free swap, unless you swap the wiring harness and ECU. just like a turbo swap. auto vs. manual is way secondary to the phase 1 - 2 issue. the 99 ej25 SOHC in the forester is a phase 2 engine. the 97 ej22 is a phase 1 engine. you can swap it and make it work, but you will never get rid of the CEL. so if you ever want ot resell the car, or if you have to pass an inspection in your state, do not swap. details are available if needed.

this is a yes. but i don't understand how you came to this conclusion. what was the code Pxxxx number? do you have a flashing AT Temp light at start up? this would indicate an electronic problem in the trans. if no. then look else where, like TPS.

it's only on the auto trans, not on the manual trans, the manual trans is completely mechanical, no electronics at all..

if the duty c fails, or the TCU for that matter, you should get a flashing AT Temp light at start up. if you get the FWD light with the fuse in, the duty c should be working. if no FWD light with the fuse in, the duty C is probably NOT working , and you should have a flashing AT Temp light at start up. i have read of a few cases of TB , with no flashing AT Temp light, and no improvement with the fuse in, regardless of the FWD light. and in at least a few of these cases , fresh fluid , 3 gallons of it, helped. the conclusion being that the gunk, stopped the duty c from working correctly, but the electronics were still good. i can not imagine that situation would last very long before the duty C failed altogether. the trans holds about 10.5 qts. of ATF. a 'drain and fill' will usually only replace about 3.5 qts. so unless you have done 3 drain and fills, you have not replaced most of the ATF. so if there are no other indicators , i would replace ALL of the ATF before i started shopping for a trans. good luck.