johnceggleston

don't they spin the same direction as the crank? and the starter bump method of loosening the crank pulley bolt would suggest they could loosen over time. but it doesn't really matter if you torque them correctly.

ok, it is a non- interference engine so no damage done. but if they didn't replace everything, belt idlers, water pump, tensioner (although they rarely fail) ect. any one of them could fail . if you are pretty confident the compression on the passenger side is low, i would pull the timing belt covers and look to see if the cam timing marks are in the correct position. if one is off you will have your answer. you will not be able to check the timing mark on the crank sprocket unless you pull the crank pulley and the center timing cover. t-belt kits can be had on ebay for 125$ including the water pump and all idlers, but no tensioner. (search "subaru timing kit" i buy from "theimportexperts" good parts) if this is a temporary car i guess you could open it up and just buy the parts you need locally that are actually broken, but for the price and the trouble involved i would do it all. another idler may let go next week. it is not unusual for a dealer or shop to only replace the things that are bad when doing a timing belt job. but then you end up with your situation. good luck and be sure to do your home work on the timing belt job so you use the correct timing belt marks. NEVER use the arrows. check the links in my signature below.

i assume this is a subaru engine, w/ 219k miles. what year, what size engine, what car?????? this info will help find the solution. with the 2 passenger side cylinders having no ( or at least 60 lbs less than the driver side) compression leads me to believe your timing has jumped. depending on the engine and the year it may be a simple as a timing belt job which you can do in the drive way in an afternoon, probably. but it could be a valve job, depending on your engine and year. so what engine and year??

the first thing to check are your battery connections. they could be dirty, corroded or loose and any of those could cause this problem. the stater pulls a lot of juice and your connections could be good enough to power everything else in the car but not enough to engage the starter. if corroded, a temporary fix may be to pour a coke over the battery posts. and tap on the connections a little. this may get your car started. then, obviously, drive it immediately to a shop without turning it off. unless you are going to try and fix it yourself in which case get out the wrenches. the other common cause is bad solenoid contacts on the starter. a jump start with jumper cables may add enough juice to over come this, but if it is the contacts they should be replaced. is your battery 5 years old??

markus has not logged on since august '04.

us cars have an igniter that feeds the coil, if it fails, swapping coils and wires will not help. ours is located on the fire wall by the trans support, the dog bone. i would think even if you have the wrong cam pulley you would get some kind spark even if it would not start the car.

what i would say is "haynes is an introduction to automotive repair" not the 'how to' manual for subarus. it is an introduction to auto repairs for which ever vehicle you own, not the ultimate solution on how to. way better than no manual at all , but no where near the info you really need.

update: this is my wife's car and until recently i only drive it for short hops to the store or 2m i. commute. but over the last week i have driven it continuously and on a long 3 hour trip. new info: once the trans warms up it shifts just like my other legos, no harder. but when cold first thing in the morning it shifts hard. eulogious mentioned this earlier about his trans. anyone have any insight as to why? would a seal 'warm up' and work better? would a seal that leaks down over night pump up over time, as the trans warms up, and then work better? i guess i should drive it until warm, let sit to drain down for a while but not long enough to cool off the fluid and then drive it again. do they make trans fluid warmers like they do engine oil warmers?

i think a tire shop is likely to tell you "oh yeah, it's the tires, you need tires!!!!" google the tire name to see how it is rated, if it is a snow tire you can buy hiway tires for the other 3 seasons. i have had tires get louder as they age. i think keeping rotated so they wear evenly may help. i have also had cheap tires wear badly and make a real racket, nut yokohama tires are not cheap. have you tried rotating them?

if you refer to the pics in the link above you will notice that the original gasket has round holes in the tabs at the corners and the new gasket has a more rectangular "stamp" in the tabs at the corners. i look for these. but that's not as easy as crawling under the car and looking for the long tabs sticking out next to the exhaust ports, newer is much longer. and the corners are easier to see from below, i think, less stuff in the way. so it is easier from below unless it is raining, parked on gravel, you are wearing good clothes, etc.

i have swapped a 97 GT and a 98 OBW and the differences are very minor. mostly due to the charcoal canister being moved to the rear.

i'd pull the timing covers on each side and check the timing marks on the cams.

hopefully!!!

well if you are taking it to GD then i'm going to keep my mouth shut, because he will know / find out what the problem is and if it is economical to repair it. BUT if you were asking for help, i would recommend getting a mechanic's stethoscope. it is AMAZING how well they work. i thought my ej22 swapped engine had rod knock. turns out it doesn't. the metal on metal is far superior to any other listening method. i hope you are wrong. good luck.

if the fuse eliminates the problem then the duty c is good and the problem is either the actual transfer clutch plates or "gunk". (gunk is a technical term.) the fluid changes may help with gunk, maybe immediately or over time. some folks have reported some success with new fluid and driving backwards in tight circles. (reverse may help dislodge ''gunk", but it may not. if it helps, i would change the fluid again.) draining the trans oil pan and then re-filling with the same amount, and then driving around the block and then doing it twice more will give you about 80% new fluid depending on how much drains out each time. or go to the shop and pay $125? for a flush. if all of that does not help, then you / she is looking at a repair in the 900$ range at the dealer maybe less at an independent subaru shop. you can buy the parts on line for about 300$, (including the duty c) i think.

no, i think you will just have to plug up / cap off some plumbing or hoses. the manual car is not going to be looking for the egr so it will not notice it, but you will want to make sure that none of the hoses are open. i have never touched a non-egr engine so i do not know the specifics, but it should be easy.

no problems what so ever as long as the trans are the same. autos have egr and manuals do not.

any one else besides me think it might be the coolant temp sensor?? try unplugging it, the one with 2 wires. (there are 2, the one with one wire is for the guage only.) it's on the coolant crossover pipe under the intake manifold on the passenger side. follow the top radiator hose, look on the back side, i think.

fan always on is also a sign of green diagnostic connectors connected, but you should also have lots of codes.

is this the donut gasket? if so the difference between aftermarket and the subaru gasket is substantial. it could make the difference.

the flashing AT Temp light means there was a fault on the last drive cycle. if , when you get it, you turn the car off and on with out driving it it may not flash on the next start up. and there are several engine codes which will cause this type of trans code, TPS, MAF, IAC? i'm not sure what else.

new trans time. reverse was first to go in mine, 165k with no service for 90k miles by me and unknown miles by the previous owner. i got mine at an auction as well.

did you do any work on the engine before you installed it? timing belt? plugs? plug wires? oil seals?

if it is not a power antenna, i would undo the screws holding the bracket to the roof and see if you can extract it that way and check it.

it happened to me once. i tried to swap the hoses from the front pump to the rear but the hoses wouldn't reach. so i swapped in a used unit from a sedan i had sitting around, no rear wash. and finally i found a good wagon washer bottle. still working.