johnceggleston

perhaps the short? is intermittent. the first place i would check is where the wires move from the driver door to the A pillar. i would think that is a stress point, maybe. maybe it will only blow if you are actuating the lock and the door at the same time.

matbe we can help with the problem. what is the car doing? any recent work done? lots of folks are willing to help, more info please. it is doubtful you are the first person here to have whatever problem you have.

i should have caught el paso, asking about rain in elpaso is pretty dumb. move the plug wire to the rear. next time the cel comes on see if it is the same cylinder. a CEL light that is flashing usually means that it is a light you should address immediately, but if you can feel it missing or know you have a problem in that area you probably do not have to drop everything and have the codes read. but if you wait too long to read the codes, it may reset before you know what the code was, and then you are just left wondering. what kind of plugs and wires did you use? move the wire , it's an easy way to help diagnose the problem. (one of the wires is longer than the others, if it happens to be #3 just move the wire to the other side rear cylinder.)

this is a fairly common question so i will give you a fairly common answer. how long has it been since you changed the plugs and wires? not all mis fires are caused by plugs and wires but are lot, i mean A LOT, of them are. what kind of plugs and wires did you use? this makes a difference to some cars, yours may be one of them. subaru wires and NKG (NGK?) wires are recommended. you can get the subaru wires on line for a fair price. maybe, probably more than discount wires at the local parts store but not too much money for what you get. try moving the #1 plug wire to the rear of the engine, #3, and see if the misfire follows the wire or if it stays with the #1 cylinder. (#1 is the front cylinder on the passenger side. #2 is front driver side.) other stuff can cause misfires but: 1. the coil pack usually affects 2 cylinders at a time , not just one. 2. the o2 would probably affect more than just one cylinder, depending on mileage and age it may be due but probably not causing your misfire. 3. computers, ECUs, almost never go bad, of course they can but this probably isn't your problem. when was the last time you had a tune up?? how many miles? how long have you been dealing with this? how long have you had the car? does it happen anytime or only when it rains? misfires have to happen twice, i think, to set a CEL. i have pulled plug wires to check other stuff and not set a cel. and they will clear themselves if they have not occurred lately? and finally, welcome to the board!!

same as all the others?? more than 1.75" and less than 2", but probably in mm.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/ECU_connectors_1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/ECU_connectors_2.jpg

you should still be able to use the starter bump method for removal even if the belt is off. if the valves are all closed, just bump the starter. but my favorite is thehole on the side of the engine bell housing. slip in a stout screwdriver and rotate the crank until the driver catches on a flex plate bolt. it works great, you just have to look for the hole. knowing it is there helps.

check your cv boots, although they usually stink pretty good.

IF you use the correct timing marks, the hash marks, NEVER the arrows or dots or whatever, you will be good. turn the crank by hand until the hash marks are up and then remove the belt. you'll be good. link to pics in my signature below. replace everything, idlers, water pump, seals, cam cap o-rings everything.

the outback trans which has a larger torque converter, is 9 point something, the TC is the only difference.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru you are looking for green connectors or black connectors, not wires. they should be under the dash to the right of the steering column. if they have never been used they may be taped up in a wire bundle. josh's site will help, look around there for info. look for 'notes and tips' then 'engine related'.

you can use 95 - 98 ej22 as long as it has egr, typically an auto trans car. but 95 is your best choice. 96 -98 will require the exhaust y-pipe from the donor car. you can probably pick up heads from a bad gasket car for less than an ej22. then it is just a gasket / timing job. did the idler damage the block?

i would agree, assuming the fluid level is ok.

nope. 99 was the intro of phase 2, which only lasted 3 years in the US before they discontinued the ej22, here. the 97 - 98 lgoe ej22 does not have plug holes through the valve cover. looking at a 97 ej22 you can't tell it, at least i can't, without a lot of studying, if it is 96 or 97. in 99 the intake changed to use the same one that the ej25 used.

or put in the FWD fuse to see if it is rear related.

i thought the ej22s were all the same in 97 -98. tweaked with new pistons a little higher horse power and interference 9due to yhe pistons). not the phase 2 ej22 that came out in 99, but not the non-interference engine of 95 - 96.

some people are just easy to please.

this shows it is a 4.11 ratio. it also shows an exploded view for a better understanding of how it fits together. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_27/train/differential_individual/illustration_2/ i don't know where you are located, but i'd try to sell the one you have and use the money to buy the one you need. of course shipping it the pit$$.

after thought: where did you get the h6 rear diff? why not just get one that matches. outbacks starting in 00 or 01 all came with a VLSD and GTs by 03. you can get one for 150$ easy and just bolt it in. www.car-part.com the above web site refers to them as "locking" but as stated above they are really a viscous limited slip.

read lmdew 's current thread on swapping gen 1 and gen 2 trans. very helpful to this question. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116468

I THINK, if they are both auto trans or both 5 speeds the final drive ratios will match, 4.44 auto, 4.11 5speed, just swap in the rear diff. if they are not both the same the ratios will not match and you will have to swap the guts. remove the open carrier and swap in the viscous guts. i don't know for sure but the basics are pretty simple. it is the fine tuning, the shims?, adjustments? that may be tricky. but i don't even know if it will get out of adjustment during the process. some one else will though. EDIT: see next post, apparently the ratios are different.

i have never touched a subaru manual window crank, but in most cars there is a spring clip behind the crank handle. if you slide the clip towards the end you grab it will release the handle. hope this helps.

any advantage to adding some special purple / red/ synthetic/ special blend?? i don't really know what i'm asking but i have heard stories of some "better" oil making old 5 speeds quieter and smoother so i was just wondering.

the final drive ratios are different , i think, 95 = 4.11 i'm sure. the 93 non-turbo = 3.9 i think. so swap both the trans and the rear diff. i don't think you will need the TCU, but since you have it , hang on to it. the circuit boards should be the same but the housings may be slightly different. the bracket and bolt hole may be different. (95 to 96 is different but the boards work so i just swapped the boards in the housings.) but i don't think you will need it. drive it and see. oh, the 95 will have a speed sensor on the trans, remove it and the insides should accept the speedo cable on the 93. or so i've heard.

well the general rule of thumb is to use an engine from your "model year group". this would be 00 - 04. there may be some small differences in thoise years, but it isn't anything you can't over come with parts from your old engine. example, you ma need to swap the cam and crank sprockets to match your ECU but that is no big deal. you can also probably use impreza engines. they quit using the 2.2L engine in 01 so all the ones in your year and a couple of years earlier, are going to be a match, or close enough that you can over come it. i wouldn't go to 05 unless some tells you for sure it will work. i just don't know. but you can get 00 - 04 to work, avoid turbos unless yours is one.