johnceggleston

there is a great thread, well it used to be great when the pics were available, any way the write up is good and if you have done other cars you will be ok. search "torqueconverter" and read the oldest thread you see. if you can observe the bottom, underside, of the trans / torque converter, if it isn't hidden by the cross member, when the TC is seated there is ALMOST no clearance between the two. if there is any gap at all it is not seated. i wish i could be more precise. the bolt ears on the TC have more than half inside of the trans bell housing, probably closer to 3/4 inside and 1/4 outside. the other clue is , if the engine does not mate completely with the trans bell housing you did not fully seat the TC. do not use the trans bolts to pull the engine and trans together, that is a trans killer.

kbb is a seller's blue book. look it up at www.edmunds.com that would be my target price. but to get it for that you have to start lower. if you are hooked on the car then you are going to pay more for it. but if it meets your criteria and you want a deal you can't be emotionally involved. you have to be willing to walk away. you can always go back. lots of cars will do the job you need it to do. but in my humble opinion, cars are tools to do a job, not investments or status symbols. but that didn't keep me from wanting and buying an outback instead of a dumb ol' plain jane legacy. having said that, the price and miles combined are not a terrible deal, in my opinion. a little more than i would want to pay but not terrible. there is a timing belt in the near future, 105k miles or months, next year? so you can use that, and anything else that is not perfect. look on ebay or craigslist and find similar cars for the price you want or less. good luck.

i have had the same thought, but when i had a nail in my right rear tire and it got way low on pressure before i noticed it i could feel a difference. minor torque bind. and if it is binding then it is wearing the drive train. so it matters. however, if you do have 2 pairs of matching tires you are better off putting the different sizes on different sides of the car. this will help. but there is no cure for one odd size tire except the FWD fuse. and that is not recommended.

when you get around to pulling the engine be sure to look and see what failed, belt, idler or what and let us know what happened. who did the belt a 105k?? shop, dealer, you?

www.car-part.com is a good source. 2000 Engine Subaru Impreza 2.2, 6 MONTH WARRANTY, ATOD, AWD price $600 Henderson Foreign Auto Parts USA-PA(Scottdale) Request_Quote 1-724-887-8700 Request_Insurance_Quote 2000 Engine Subaru Impreza L, 2.2, ATOD, AWD, price $500 Carlisle Auto & Truck Salvage,Inc USA-PA(Carlisle) Request_Quote 717-238-1500 / 717-766-0579 Request_Insurance_Quote below is a copy of an august 19 ad on cgraigslist- roanoke, va. it probably long gone and the ad has expired but it maybe worth a phone call. 1999 subaru impreza motor/trans (martinsville) $600 from parts in roanoke, VA 1999 subaru motor and transmission 130k.....phone 276-358-2222....will not respond to email

info on sway bars and handling, probably more than you wanted to know but the second post lists all of the sway bar sizes, front and rear through the years. good info. and Zues Marine is a member here as well. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/swaybar-faq-134646.html

www.cars101.com or maybe http://www.carsdirect.com , although 95 maybe too old.

thanks td, just what i needed.

so i will be not the guy who swears "the fuses are good, i checked them" i will check them again. but to have a bad fuse after my method of checking fuses would require 2 bad fuses in a row, or a bad fuse seat. i start with a spare fuse that looks good. when i pull a fuse i replace it with the spare. if nothing changes i move on to the next, pull it and install the one i pulled from the first . keep doing this until i have covered all of the fuses of that size. on to the next size. the fuses that kill something when pulled are obviously good. the ones that do nothing may need further checking. i guess a test light would come in handy. but i'll check again. i have read too many posts where the cause is a bad fuse after checking all the fuses.

the tires are obviously different. and i'm pretty sure the struts are the same and the springs too. i did some checking, sway bars are different: legacy, L, LS, Brighton have a D=15 sway bar. (D = diameter??) GT, LSi have a D = 16 sway bar and the winner, Outback has a D=18 sway bar. rumor has it that the mounting brackets are different to allow for the different diameters. i'm sure the "rubber bushings" are different but i'm not sure of the metal brackets. so what would a legacy drive like with an outback sway bar??

so what are the differences between 97 lego L vs. GT, sway bars and tires??

i don't think these are available for my 97 outback. i found them for my 97 avalon though.

will do , thanks i have never pulled a steering wheel, i'm hoping i don't have to, but we'll see.

97 GT, 2,2L swap, auto w/ 150k miles. the hor, cruise control quit working and i have an ABS light on all the time. i expected a fuse, but these things are on different fuses and i have check them all. what do they have in common, the steering wheel? suggestions?

the bearing on the out put shaft fits into a machined seat. it is not, at least the 2 i've handled weren't, is not hard to remove. slides right out. but as long as there is plenty of fluid / oil for the bearing and the outer race of the bearing is not spinning in the case then you shouldn't have a problem. i would think the seal would be a more likely weak point, if it is not leaking you should be ok.

well it needs 3 things to start, air, fuel, and spark; along with the necessary compression, intake and exhaust. the air is a no brainer. the spark can be tricky unless you like getting zapped. but fuel, you can shoot some starting fluid into the intake and see if it fires. it's hard to do with the intake in place and it probably won't run / fire for very long if the intake is loose, but if it fires at all you will see some light and narrow it down to a fuel issue.

i don't mean to be rude or condescending, but please describe the crank and cam marks you used for the timing belt. being off a tooth or two isn't as bad as using the wrong marks.

uh .... gas in the tank?

which 2 cylinders, left vs. right or front vs. rear?? if it is really a spark issue (it's amazing how many reports of no spark end up being something else), and front vs. rear, check the igniter which is mounted on the fire wall beside the dog bone, just left of center. if it is left vs right, look for a timing issue, check the belt and cam marks. are all of the vac lines connected, especially the one under the plastic intake that runs from the air filter box to the throttle body?? probably disconnected when removing plugs and hard to see unless you look for it because it is underneath.

search "diffcheck" . you can use that procedure to see if the transfer clutch will indeed "lock up". or just unplug the large wiring connector the goes to the trans and drive it in tight circles. with the wiring disconnected the trans should be in limp mode, 3rd gear only and ''locked'' 4wd. if not, you have a mechanical problem in the rear extension housing on the trans.

both i think. most report a click, but i don't remember mine doing that. the click assures that you don't have a cut wire or non-functioning ignition switch. the electricity is flowing, just not enough. EDIT for taglines: starterrelay, starterrelayfix, starterfix

i'm sure there is, but i would think it is bundled in the wire harness.

the TCU or TCM, trans control module, is located under the dash on the driver side of the car. it is about the size of a paperback book. any work in that area just prior to the problem?

the ecm, twice as big, maybe more, as a paper back book, mounted under the carpet passenger side?? or the same size as a book, or a little smaller, under the dash driver's side? i don't know much about the ecm, but it is possible that by installing a different ecm, one that had not been powered up, you started with a clean slate and it took several drive cycles to set the codes again. in other words you migth have gotten the same results with leaving the neg. battery cable off over night.

they can charge a fee to diagnose the problem. they SHOULD have been very clear about that up front. but i'd be willing to bet when you dropped off the car that they had you sign something agreeing that you would recieve a written estimate before any repairs are done. most shops do to reassure the customer. if they spend time and money / parts "trying" to fix it and are unsuccessful then that is a different issue. complain to the manage and if necessary go to the better business bureau. some dealers may not care but most want a good reputation. i had a 2 week old computer from best buy that failed, hard drive i think. they said it would have to be shipped back the company to be fixed. this conversation was, our 3rd trip to best buy, son, wife and now me, this conversation was taking place at the front door of the store and was overheard by all of the other customers entering. as they invited me to "move" over to the service desk i stood my ground, took out my phone and announced i was calling the BBB, i was out the door with a new, better computer in 20 minutes. don't get angry but be firm. losing your temper will not help.