johnceggleston

i would if they were both 2.5L engines, but one is a 2.2L and the other is a 2.5L. i don't think they are interchangeable. but maybe the underlying "tubing" is?? anyone know?

right you are, i missed that. i have 2.2L on my mind.

as many times as i have read these words you would think i'd remember them. thanks.

i'm swapping an 95 auto ej22 into a 98 outback. the 98 has the canister in the rear and the 95 had it up front. to simplify the plumbing, can i just install the 95 canister in the front of the 98 and hook it up like it was? will this cause me to have "open" vac lines in the rear? are there any "sensors" located at the canister in the rear? or is all that stuff still on the strut tower? (looks like it's still all there.) if the rear canister is still "plumbed" in at the rear, will it hurt to add a second one up front? adding the canister seemed like a simple way to fix the plumbing. this stuff is a huge mystery to me, kind of like the smoke in the electrical components that you don't want to come out. EDIT, i read up on this in my haynes manual and have a very basic undetstanding of the system. i guess the big question will be if the solenoid is connected to the correct vac line. and second, do the metal lines need to be connected to something specific, other than the front canister. don't see any real harm by having 2 canisters. would be possible to connect the front "canister" lines on the ej22 to each other, just make a u-turn, to complete the system without the front canister? any help would be appreciated.

sounds like i need a BFS too loosen those strike screws. thanks.

yeah, but i doubt that's the problem since we have seen 50F since april or march. but it could be he hasn't driven it in a while. i'll find out more info. thanks.

i picked up a green 98 outbak 140k, auto (w/ busted passenger cam sprocket) and the driver door alignment is off. the leading edge seems to match the fender well but the rear edge sits out a bit, probably only 1/8", or less, but it seems like a ton. it closes, latches and locks ok, but in really heavy rain it leaks a little. and the top rear corner of the glass (maybe about an inch) drags on the top plastic trim strip as it closes. are there adjustments i cam make to the hinges? or the latch or strike to correct this? or is this a ''been wrecked'' problem that i'll have to live with. would a replacement door help? or is the problem in one of the pillars? the car fax is clean but that just means the insurance company, police and dealer haven't heard of an accident. i've swapped a rear door, a long, long time ago but i can't remember exactly how the hinges work. thanks for you help. john

sounds like a pretty good car, 200k, fwd, auto. but it ''needs trans work''. apparently it doesn't up shift until fully hot. quote from ad: Car does drive fine, but unless its good and warmed up it will not get out of the low gears. i haven't looked at it yet. if it only needs new fluid or a temp sensor , that's ok, but if it needs a trans swap i'll pass. what do you think the fix is? thanks.

and usually correctable, and since it's a 96 is non-interference no real harm done.

suggestions: double check that the new parts look to be the same as the old parts. loosen the top and then tighten the bottom, then re-tighten the top. back up and see if you can make it work using the old parts.

when you get around to buying tires, 205/50/16 is the stock size for the 97 GT which is about the same diameter as the stock 95 lego, 185/70/14. the GT is about 1/8" smaller in diameter, which is about 3/8" in circumference. that's less than 1%, not enough for you to notice.

you could always buy a plug for the hole when you buy the brass fitting for the pressure bleeder. after bleeding, unthread the nipple and thread in the plug. maybe hot better but you have to buy the nipple any way.

given how hot the engine got, melting part of the timing cover, is there a concern about potential bearing failure?

maybe dirt, rust, metal flakes on the sensor it self, or a tone ring. reading the code will tell you which wheel? is the problem.

a better choice than the 97 would be a 00-01 ej22, maybe a 99. in other words the phase 2 ej22. 99 was the last year for an ej22 in the lagacy, but impreza used them another year or maybe two. maybe a cheaper solution.

for bigring: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=832700&postcount=6

i use both, engine marks and belt marks. my fear about just using the marks on the engine is, if there is too much slack in between the crank and drivers side cam (intake) sprockets, that when the pin is pulled the driver cam moves. but if the sprockets are all in the correct positions and you correctly mark the belt and place the mark on the cams correctly, it's done. there is no room for error unless the belt slips or there is slack in between the in and out cams. with limited experience in replacing belts, i have more confidence in this method. a little more work but less room for error. but i would never rely on belt marks only and i double check the marks on the belt if it came with marks.

you may have used the wrong marks to time the engine, this is very common. do not use the arrows, always the hash marks. the crank may be off even if the cams are right. links to good help just below in my signature, especially the one with pics, see page 2. good luck.

the blinking power light at start up means there is an AT trouble code, i think. i'm not 100% because i'm a 95 - 99 guy, not 91. but in my lego a blinking AT Temp light at start up means there is a trouble code. my guess is it 's you torque converter lock up solenoid. b ut you can read the code and see . do a search for how to read trans trouble codes.

basically it is the same relative position as the front. just in front of the rear wheel, there should be 2 notches in the 'fin'? under the rocker panel. there is a wide fat spot for the jack to bear on just behind, on the inside of, where the notches are. if you run your fingers along the back side of the fin you will feel it.

you are very, very lucky to still have your wallet and to have no new holes in your body. very lucky. sorry you have to walk tho.

5 speeds are easy, the trans to engine bolts will work, just use the ones you have, and the clutch, push vs. pull - if there is a difference, you can make work with very little effort. what you need to make sure of is the final drive ratio. if that's off it's a bust. double check the final drive ratio.

i would think that the cats are pretty dumb, their physical make up and the exhaust heat cause them to 'convert'. and if anything the cali emissions specs are going to be more demanding than the rest of the country. but i doubt that the resulting gases would be so clean as to not register as acceptable by the fed ecu. now the cali ecu may cause an issue with non-cali parts. you can check parts and part numbers at http://opposedforces.com/parts . but unless you can figure out the "destination" codes it may not be much help.

this a little ,well maybe a lot, out of my league, but with the flashing AT lite and the other issues, i would check the connectors at the rear of the engine to make sure they are well connected without any bent pins.

is it near the cap? i had the same thing on my 97 obw, the leak was at the corner near the cap. i removed the overflow tank tracked it down. replaced the cap and all is good. i had noticed a loss of fluid, but never saw where until i left it idling in my driveway when i got home one day. after a few minutes i saw the drip. hope this helps.