johnceggleston

yeah, but i doubt that's the problem since we have seen 50F since april or march. but it could be he hasn't driven it in a while. i'll find out more info. thanks.

i picked up a green 98 outbak 140k, auto (w/ busted passenger cam sprocket) and the driver door alignment is off. the leading edge seems to match the fender well but the rear edge sits out a bit, probably only 1/8", or less, but it seems like a ton. it closes, latches and locks ok, but in really heavy rain it leaks a little. and the top rear corner of the glass (maybe about an inch) drags on the top plastic trim strip as it closes. are there adjustments i cam make to the hinges? or the latch or strike to correct this? or is this a ''been wrecked'' problem that i'll have to live with. would a replacement door help? or is the problem in one of the pillars? the car fax is clean but that just means the insurance company, police and dealer haven't heard of an accident. i've swapped a rear door, a long, long time ago but i can't remember exactly how the hinges work. thanks for you help. john

sounds like a pretty good car, 200k, fwd, auto. but it ''needs trans work''. apparently it doesn't up shift until fully hot. quote from ad: Car does drive fine, but unless its good and warmed up it will not get out of the low gears. i haven't looked at it yet. if it only needs new fluid or a temp sensor , that's ok, but if it needs a trans swap i'll pass. what do you think the fix is? thanks.

and usually correctable, and since it's a 96 is non-interference no real harm done.

suggestions: double check that the new parts look to be the same as the old parts. loosen the top and then tighten the bottom, then re-tighten the top. back up and see if you can make it work using the old parts.

when you get around to buying tires, 205/50/16 is the stock size for the 97 GT which is about the same diameter as the stock 95 lego, 185/70/14. the GT is about 1/8" smaller in diameter, which is about 3/8" in circumference. that's less than 1%, not enough for you to notice.

you could always buy a plug for the hole when you buy the brass fitting for the pressure bleeder. after bleeding, unthread the nipple and thread in the plug. maybe hot better but you have to buy the nipple any way.

given how hot the engine got, melting part of the timing cover, is there a concern about potential bearing failure?

maybe dirt, rust, metal flakes on the sensor it self, or a tone ring. reading the code will tell you which wheel? is the problem.

a better choice than the 97 would be a 00-01 ej22, maybe a 99. in other words the phase 2 ej22. 99 was the last year for an ej22 in the lagacy, but impreza used them another year or maybe two. maybe a cheaper solution.

for bigring: http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/TimingWaterPump.htm http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=832700&postcount=6

i use both, engine marks and belt marks. my fear about just using the marks on the engine is, if there is too much slack in between the crank and drivers side cam (intake) sprockets, that when the pin is pulled the driver cam moves. but if the sprockets are all in the correct positions and you correctly mark the belt and place the mark on the cams correctly, it's done. there is no room for error unless the belt slips or there is slack in between the in and out cams. with limited experience in replacing belts, i have more confidence in this method. a little more work but less room for error. but i would never rely on belt marks only and i double check the marks on the belt if it came with marks.

you may have used the wrong marks to time the engine, this is very common. do not use the arrows, always the hash marks. the crank may be off even if the cams are right. links to good help just below in my signature, especially the one with pics, see page 2. good luck.

the blinking power light at start up means there is an AT trouble code, i think. i'm not 100% because i'm a 95 - 99 guy, not 91. but in my lego a blinking AT Temp light at start up means there is a trouble code. my guess is it 's you torque converter lock up solenoid. b ut you can read the code and see . do a search for how to read trans trouble codes.

basically it is the same relative position as the front. just in front of the rear wheel, there should be 2 notches in the 'fin'? under the rocker panel. there is a wide fat spot for the jack to bear on just behind, on the inside of, where the notches are. if you run your fingers along the back side of the fin you will feel it.

you are very, very lucky to still have your wallet and to have no new holes in your body. very lucky. sorry you have to walk tho.

5 speeds are easy, the trans to engine bolts will work, just use the ones you have, and the clutch, push vs. pull - if there is a difference, you can make work with very little effort. what you need to make sure of is the final drive ratio. if that's off it's a bust. double check the final drive ratio.

i would think that the cats are pretty dumb, their physical make up and the exhaust heat cause them to 'convert'. and if anything the cali emissions specs are going to be more demanding than the rest of the country. but i doubt that the resulting gases would be so clean as to not register as acceptable by the fed ecu. now the cali ecu may cause an issue with non-cali parts. you can check parts and part numbers at http://opposedforces.com/parts . but unless you can figure out the "destination" codes it may not be much help.

this a little ,well maybe a lot, out of my league, but with the flashing AT lite and the other issues, i would check the connectors at the rear of the engine to make sure they are well connected without any bent pins.

is it near the cap? i had the same thing on my 97 obw, the leak was at the corner near the cap. i removed the overflow tank tracked it down. replaced the cap and all is good. i had noticed a loss of fluid, but never saw where until i left it idling in my driveway when i got home one day. after a few minutes i saw the drip. hope this helps.

i don't know much about sandrails, but if the engine does not have a t-stat, will it ever get up to normal operating temp? will it constantly run in open loop? i guess fuel economy isn't really a concern but what about power, isn't that affected? just wondering.

hey, anybody can do it the easy way, it takes real talent to do it the hard way. the story of my life.

i spent 285$ at an independent shop to have the rear transfer housing swapped out on my 97 obw. i supplied the housing. no other new parts except fluid. so it can be expensive. the duty c cost a little under 100$, i think, online so that would be in addition to the labor. when my 95 lego had an intermittent duty c it was exactly as it sounded. sometimes it would bind and sometimes it would not. sometimes the AT Temp light would flash at start up and others not. sometimes the FWD fuse would eliminate the problem and sometimes not. so i pulled the rear section of the drive shaft and it is now FWD all the time, runs great.

and the fluid level.

what kind of noise? this is very strange. please describe what happened when it "skipped" time. no it is not time to pull the engine yet. we don't even know what the problem is yet. the most common cause of a 'no start' condition after a timing belt job is if you used the wrong timing marks. check out the timing belt links, especially the one with pics in my signature just below. but, the weird noise may mean something else is wrong. more info please.