johnceggleston

i don't know much about sandrails, but if the engine does not have a t-stat, will it ever get up to normal operating temp? will it constantly run in open loop? i guess fuel economy isn't really a concern but what about power, isn't that affected? just wondering.

hey, anybody can do it the easy way, it takes real talent to do it the hard way. the story of my life.

i spent 285$ at an independent shop to have the rear transfer housing swapped out on my 97 obw. i supplied the housing. no other new parts except fluid. so it can be expensive. the duty c cost a little under 100$, i think, online so that would be in addition to the labor. when my 95 lego had an intermittent duty c it was exactly as it sounded. sometimes it would bind and sometimes it would not. sometimes the AT Temp light would flash at start up and others not. sometimes the FWD fuse would eliminate the problem and sometimes not. so i pulled the rear section of the drive shaft and it is now FWD all the time, runs great.

and the fluid level.

what kind of noise? this is very strange. please describe what happened when it "skipped" time. no it is not time to pull the engine yet. we don't even know what the problem is yet. the most common cause of a 'no start' condition after a timing belt job is if you used the wrong timing marks. check out the timing belt links, especially the one with pics in my signature just below. but, the weird noise may mean something else is wrong. more info please.

pm sent.

you type it out , but you need to make sure it is typed correctly. there is a forward / in the second set of brackets. this format is very similar to the "click here" links you can insert in a text. there is a link in my signature. apparently this is standard formatting for "internet" stuff. or if you open a photobucket account and up load some pics there you can click on the 'IMG code' below an uploaded pic and it will format your pic for you. then you just paste it in the post. you can test it by sending yourself an email with a pic inserted.

crap, i've got to tune up my car. i can't get 25 on the hiway in my 97 outback. i have no idea what my wife's 97 gt gets.

to display like below, place the "http pic location" which you posted above in place of 'pic location' the middle of this:

i don't know anything about the bias and how it may change by using larger brakes on the front of the car, but i do know that the 95 lego, 97 GT, and the 97 obw all have the same rotors, calipers and pads on the rear. so you can swap in what ever you want.

i guess i could be wrong about this, but the water doesn't flow with the t-stat closed. (except maybe to the heater core, not sure about that.) the whole point of it being closed is to prevent flow so it will warm up.

you cant change the rotors without changing the calipers, they go hand in hand. but you can swap both onto your hub/knuckle, no problem. used calipers might be a good option, but you will probably want to use new rotors and pads. and bigger is better.

if your belt is in tact leave it on until you have cracked loose the cam sprocket bolts. you can use a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and a ratchet on the cam bolt. the crank pulley should be lots tighter than the cam bolts. break all 4 cams loose then remove the belt. installing and torquing the cam bolts is the challenge. i used a chain wrench on my ej22 but you have to be careful to protect the cam sprocket. i wrapped it with a piece of the old timing belt. some? / one of the sprockets are plastic? so be careful. if the driver side intake valves are open then the exhaust valves are closed. they aren't open at the same time. with the pistons in the correct position it doesn't matter how the intake cam ''snaps'' there is nothing to hit.

on my 97 obw the canister is under the hood, on the 98 obw (10/97 build date) i just got, it's not there. if under the hood it's about the size of a quaker oats container, 5-6" diameter, ~8" tall and black hoses run from it to the front corner of the engine just under the power steering lines near the passenger side fuel rail? . hope this helps.

the 99 outback has a known "slow to engage" problem that has been corrected in a lot of cases with Trans-X. idon't know if it will help your problem, but it can't hurt. see this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87708

i think it's a 10, if not then a 12, just like almost every other bolt. until you start removing large components, then you need a 14 .

i ruined the slave cylinder in my 90 nissan pick-up by using the wrong fluid. it was already in need of repair but the wrong fluid made it leak like the line was cut. i don't remember what i used, brake fluid maybe, but it ate up the slave cylinder rubber parts. make sure you are using the correct fluid and if in doubt, flush the system. you do not want to do this twice. of course since you have swapped both cylinders there's not much fluid left in the system.

if the crank sprocket is in the correct position, on the timing mark, the pistons are at the half way position and there is no possibility of pistons bending valves. turning cams by hand, you would have to be very forceful to do some damage. valves bending valves is possible, i guess, but not likely, i don't think. (please correct me if i'm wrong.) and since the nature of the cams is to "close" the valves, the tendency is to "avoid" damage. having said this, is it possible that you could force the cams around and cause a problem, probably, but if you set it up as it should be before you remove the belt and do not mess around with the cams too much while hanging the new one you should be ok. lots of first timers have done this successfully. just make sure you are using the correct timing marks and you should be ok. there are links below in my signature to some great pictures and articles for a timing belt change. read up and have fun. if you have more questions , ask.

the phase 2 auto trans, most of which have a trans code number starting with TZ1A4Z..... have more wires in the wire harness and a different connector. but more importantly it has more of what appears to be speed sensors. they look just like the rear speed sensor mounted in the transfer housing. i do not know what the extra sensors are for but they are there. so until you can figure out hoe to give the TCU the extra ''signals" the phase 1 will not work. i wonder if a phase 2 trans would work in a phase 1 car.??

update: more complete info. 96 - 99 2.5L outback, GT, and LSi 5 speed IS a 4.11 final drive. 95 - 99 legacy 2.2L 5 speed IS 3.9 final drive. (except 96 2.2L outback which is has an outback final drive.) 90 - 94 legacy non-turbo 5 speed is PROBABLY 4.11, turbo is PROBABLY 3.9. what year legacy trans?

99 outback 5 speed IS a 4.11 final drive. 95 - 99 legacy 2.2L 5 speed IS 3.9 final drive. 90 - 94 legacy non-turbo 5 speed is PROBABLY 4.11, turbo is PROBABLY 3.9. what year legacy trans?

with yokohama's name on them i would not worry. they are going to perform as they are advertised, within reason. but i would make sure the tire you are buying is advertised to do what you think it will do. make sure it is in fact the same tire. they make yokohama tires in salem, VA as well. one of the few? tire plants in the US that has not suffered greatly in this recession. they don't make tires for NEW cars, replacement tires only.

i thought the plural of EJ22 was EJs22, like mothers-in-law or surgeons general. sometimes i really crack me up.

i have read that the interference in the 97 and up ej22 was/is caused by the piston change, less clearance more HP. but i don't really know. i also have read if you swap in 96 style pistons it becomes non-interference, but again, i don't know. and i'll never do that when i can pick up another engine for cheap.

well i took them by the machine shop today and learned that they are not new, they were turned just before it was parked. and there is not enough left to turn them. so it is either use them as is or toss them. i think i will try them as a temporary while i get my daily driver rotors turned. if they end up working well, ok but if not i'll just get new. by the way, while talking to the machine shop i learned, rotors turned = 12$ each heads cleaned and "vacuume checked" = 20$ each heads resurfaced = 47$ each comments ?? this is my first ever conversation with a machine shop.