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Everything posted by johnceggleston
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i picked up a 98 outback with bad HGs that has been sitting for ~18months and the brand new rotors (and pads) he put on the week before are now rusty. i pulled them to take and get them turned for my daily driver, but i was wondering if there was a process i could do myself to save the trip. my daily driver needs rotors and i thought i would use these while the 98 is on jack stands and have mine turned to install once the swap is done. i just don't know how much hand sanding , if any, is too much. any tricks or tips?? thanks,
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the 95 ej22 is a direct swap for the 99 ej25 so i think it will work, no problem. you may need a y-pipe as mentioned but that should be it. you can not swap the intake since the phase 2 ej22 intake is the same as the phase 2 ej25 intake and different than the 95 - 98 ej22 intake. but since you don't need to swap it it is not a problem. but before you do the swap check to make sure you are not hearing the t-belt tensioner slapping. may be just wishful thinking but it would be great if that is what was making the noise and they will make noise.
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+1, i strip the threads on a VW block bolt helping a friend in college swap an engine. he announced he'd rather have it fall off or leak than stripped. i have always remembered that when ever doing any bolts without a T-wrench. thread it on finger tight, if it leaks, give it a 1/4 turn, if it still leaks give it another 1/4 turn. i have never heard of a 7/8 turn tighter. is that spec??
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i was able to identify new gaskets on my 97 obw which i bought with 98k miles. if you compare pictures, or actual gaskets side by side you will see they have slight differences which you MAY be able to identify with out removing the heads. i looked for the rectangular "stamp" or imprint in the corner of the new gaskets. the old ones do not have them. the other thing to look for is the "tabs" that hang out in the exhaust port area, the new are larger. i referred to these pics. the new on the left has different corners (the corners closet to the old gasket) and the tabs at the exhaust ports. of course if they were change a while ago you may not be able to see the difference.
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my 97 GT came with both the seat connections and the switch connections. not sure about the relay and other stuff.remove the 2 screws at the center console latch and pop out the panel around the hand brake. if you have wires ans maybe a blue connector in there you probably have the wiring for heated seats. it is my opinion that if the option was offered at the factory in a specific year and model then the wiring is there. for instance, heated seats was an option in 97 GT but not in the 96 lego. so my GT has the wiring but the 96 parts car i have does not.
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+1, i'm with gloyale get a legacy, 95- or 96, and add the struts. you'll have a more economical final drive ratio than the outback. if you are climbing hills or towing get a GT or outback with bad head gaskets. the GT already has the outback final drive and you can put the struts on it as well. adding outback size tires will, in effect, give you an outback setup. i am amazed at how desirable the outbacks are as opposed to a regular lego. i'm guilty of this myself. but for 200$ used or 300$ new, you can lift any legacy to the outback height, maybe higher, and the rest is mostly paint and plastic. but outbacks do look good.
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if you have to use it, pull it out of the trans, set it nose down and drill out the busted bolts from the back side. use lots of pblaster to loosen them up and a dril bit smaller than the shaft of the bolt. you can always use a bigger bit and just drill out the whole thing and re tap it . but if drilling the bolt causes it to spin out, all the better. thats what you really want, no tapping then. re-seating the TC is not hard if you know you need to do it. it the folks who do not know they need to go an extra bit who screw up. and check it's position before you pull it in the first place so you will have a reference point. maybe mark it. keep at it, you are getting close now.
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the trans code numbers in the chart are / should be accurate, but when you are searching online for a trans everyone is going to identify it by year and model, not trans number. http://www.car-part,com may help. the only outbacks in the 90s that had a 3.9 were the 95s which still had the 2.2L engine. i do not know what happened in '00 , that's not my decade. but the rule of thumb for 5 speed swaps is "any 5 speed will fit and work as long as it has the right final drive". since you are looking to change your FD i would not limit your search to 95 - 99. review the chart and find the gears you want and then go looking for the car and year you need. i wouldn't go newer than 04 without more research just to be sure it will work. there are some push and some pull clutches, but the housings have the ability to be either with very little effort, so find what you are looking for.
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in auto trans in the late 90s the 7th character is the final drive ratio indicator, if it is a 2 then it is a 4.44 final drive. but the manual trans are not that consistent, and i can not find any pattern to them. so you are going to have to go off of which car the trans / diff came from. a 2,5L car will have the 4.44 final drive and the 2,2L cars will have the 3.9 final drive. you can check this against the chart for confirmation.