johnceggleston

try a salvage yard. 25$ if they keep them around.

very weird. did you check the diagnostic plugs under the dash?? i know they can cause trouble, but i don't remember just what kind.

i'd be willing to bet they used the part in the impreza, legacy and the outback as well. any outbacks near you ?? maybe not outback. i did some research, they started using this part in the cars buit in mid- 98. it does not show an ending date for most but for some they quit in mid- 99. but more interesting, the electrical guts were used in some legacys but your housing was specific to forester and impreza. but you can get the new 'guts' for 50$ - 60$ online. complete - 22794AA000 http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/22794AA000/ guts only - 22680AA290 http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/22680AA290/ knowing what models & years use the part will let you expand your search at parts yards.

it's a pain to do on a guess, but a better ground on the radio may help. do you get any engine noise over the radio?

what's the logic behind the thicker oil???

you can destroy the trans oil pump unless the TC it is seated correctly. search 'torqueconverter' and read the older / oldest thread. it used to have great pictures.

correct and based on a short story by stephen king.

off topic, can you name the film and the author whose story it was based on???? i know the latter, but forget the film name.

when i installed mine, i didn't have to remove any bolts and my tow hook is welded on, i think. of course your ford pick up may be different than my 97 outback.

pretty good place for part numbers: http://opposedforces.com/parts

part numbers are in the thread linked in post #29 of this thread. i would order the part numbers in the link, and include both your vin#, they ask for it , and a note for jamie. she usually confirms the order by email before she actually places it. once you have heard from her you can ask her all about what you need. there may be a different part number from the ones in the linked thread since yours is a 93, those are for a 97-98, but they didn't change much and with your vin jamie will make sure you get the right parts. please note: you need 2 identical gaskets, i think they are referred to as oil seals. they go on the duty c valve assembly. the exhaust gaskets may or may not be needed, but i didn't price them. you have to drop the exhaust to get to the rear of the trans.

i found these prices online at https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/catalogs.html Multiple Part Search PLATE SET-TRF CCH Quantity: 1 Subaru Price:$149.45 List Price:$149.45 Your Price:$109.40 VALVE AY TRANSFER CLUTCH Quantity: 1 Subaru Price:$129.95 List Price:$129.95 Your Price:$95.12 OIL SEAL Quantity: 2 Subaru Price:$8.00 List Price:$8.00 Your Price:$5.86 each that's $217 for the parts plus shipping, $20 ???? the one thing that has not been mentioned, i don't think, is the possibility of wear mark / grooves on the transfer clutch drum which can cause trouble, binding maybe. search for 'dremel, torque, drum, repair, maybe.

what happens if you unplug the trans wiring harness.? does it default to limp mode 3rd, or stay in first.? can you manually shift it out of first?

start here: http://opposedforces.com/parts

auto or manual?

the speedo is a known issue in the 99s, replace it with one from a different year. i'm pretty sure a 98 will work but you better confirm that. gas gauge is a known problem as well. a bottle of techron fuel system additive may help. but mostly you just live with it or buy new replacement parts. the tank has 2 senders, one on each side because of the rear drive shaft. they get dirty and just don't work like they should. mine is the same way, but techron helps and the light still comes on with about 2 gallons left so i just use the trip meter and the light. rough idle could be anything from plug + wires to o2 sensor. when was the last time you replaced the plug wires?? use subaru only!!

according to the numbers above it will lower your car .66 inches, more than 5/8 inch. stock 90s legacy, 185/70/15, is ~24.20 in diameter, which would make it another .4 inches lower. google ''miata tire calculator''. the speedometer is driven by the speedo gears in the trans. there is no way i know of short of replacing them that they can be calibrated. they match the stock tire size that came on the car. speedos can be swapped, but from what i have seen they are all the same in the 90s, they just swap out the face plates to match the speedo gears. so the speedo will always be off. you can remove and reset the speedo needle so it will read correctly at ONE SPEED, but it is very tricky and not recommended. in order to get the speedo to read accurately all the time you would have to make a custom faceplate and install it.

800$ for a rebuild kit is crazy plus all the labor!!!! you can get a 95 2.2L engine for 300 and a timing belt kit for 125$ and drive it for 100k miles. how long do you plan on keeping the car. a total rebuild may go 300k or more, but will you be driving it that long? will the rest of the car make it that far?

forever, i'm 35k into the same situation. there is a way to check if the front and rear diffs match. search "diffcheck" and read up. if the trans was swapped recently and it has the wrong final drive ratio that would cause trouble, but the FWD fuse would cure it temporarily if the duty c was working properly. somewhere in the archives there are part numbers for the duty c and the transfer clutch plates. look for a thread that i posted to which includes the words duty, transfer, clutch, plate, and "nipper". i ordered mine from jamie at https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/catalogs.html . she's great, never a bad part, and she is a member here (subiegal? or girl?) . check out her web site. found it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=613654&postcount=6

ecu in under the carpet on the passenger side foot well up near the fire wall. what are you going to put the engine in ??

there's a recent thread about locking the crank. kirby, so now you know how to remove the engine. be sure to read up on how to re-seat your torque converter before you re-install or you could destroy your trans.

you need to put a test lite on the small wire on the starter and see if it has juice when you turn the key? if yes, you can just wire in another relay. if no you will definitely have to track down the real problem. does everything else work once the car is running.?

if you are getting clicks when you turn the key chances are you have a bad battery connection or bad contacts in the starter. try jumping it, and / or jumping a new hot wire from the battery to the small tab connector on the starter. (that's the one that tells the starter to engage, do it when the key is in the run / on position.) shorting out the radio hot and ground could cook and age all sorts of things including the battery cable connections. i'm surprised your battery isn't dead or have a bad cell.

ej22 swap, no question. the engine cost plus labor plus 200$ for the timing belt kit, with seals. look for a 95 lego 2.2L w/ auto trans. or a 96 lego w/ auto trans and the y-pipe.

aha , i was right, 4 qts. 12 ozs. i said it in post #10. i was right, i should be a super hero. where do i sign up. (now all i have t do is go back and edit post #10.)