johnceggleston

which side head??

different strokes for different folks. my son is dating a girl whose father does not believe in buying used cars, only new. that's not me, but if nobody bought new, who would we buy used cars from???

the key to figuring out if it is the harmonic part of the pulley or the keyway part of the pulley is to look at the pulley bolt head. this may not be possible on the 2.5L but i could do it on my 2.2L engine. if the bolt wobbles, it is loose and probably the keyway is damaged. if the bolt doesn't wobble but the pulley does then it is the pulley. i have had this symptom on both my 93 which failed and my 95 which i caught before it failed. once they fail, the damage may be pretty significant. prior to failure the damage is not too bad. good catch on seeing it before it failed. i think you can find a way to brace the flex plate even with the intake in the way.

i had a 93 that did this. my mechanic "glued " it back together with a "permanent" loctite product. he also replaced everything possible before he put it back together which meant i would get at least another 60k out of it.i ended up wrecking it a year later. i'll bet the shop doing the repair didn't torque to the required 140 ft lbs. fix it and drive it. it's cheaper than buying anything else.

first you need to know that the mwchanics make money on selling you repairs you did not ask for when you first took your car in. you may need brakes, but you may not. he may have just been trying to sell you something. second, whjat are the brakes doing? are they making noise, or vibrating?? noise could mean you need both pads and rotors, vibrating could mean rotors. but if they are making noise or vibrating you may only need pads. i've been replacing pads on my 90 nissan pickup for years, and only now at 180k+ have the rotors started to warp and vibrate. i usuualy use a c-clamp, but i have done it without. in that case i use a large screwdriver, inserted through the holes in the caliper into the vent openings in the rotor, at first, to pry the caliper toward the outside of the car. when i have enough room, i reposition the screwdriver between the outside pad and the rotor, and pry again. it does not matter if you mess up the pad, it is being replaced, but try not to scratch up the rotor too much if you can help it. (ps: do not add brake fluid before you change the pads, compressing the caliper pistons will push fluid back into the master cylinder, if it is already full it will over flow.) you should re-grease the slide pins. once you have the caliper open enough to replace the pads the rotors are just 2 more bolts on the caliper bracket, but there is a good chance they may not need to be changed unless you have a braking issue. when you are finished, be sure to pump the brake pedal several short strokes until firm to refill the brake lines with fluid before you drive it. then check the fluid level in the master cylinder.

it will run, the heads will work, but it will not have the needed egr system so you'll have a cel. but if it is a rally car it may not matter.

i let mine idle for a long time. the engine had been sitting for over a year and i was afraid it was not a good engine, i had never heard it run. but it was in and i had nothing to lose so i let it idle, 30 - 40 minutes a day for several days. it finally quieted down and has run great for over a year / 15k now. don't panic, give it time.

thanks for the links, i bookmarked them. i was just surprised to see what i thought were new gaskets when i looked on my car. and just because the gaskets are not original does not mean they will go 150k miles. but it would be nice when looking at a car to buy to at least have a clue of what to look for.

that's not the knock sensor, i don't think. it's in the back near the throttle body. it could be the oil pressure sender, maybe.

who has a link to the shop website in the NW? that posts the pics, causes, and fixes for the head gaskets. they even talked about the multi-layer and a new, new gasket for a late model subie. anyway that is the best site for pics i can remember of the 'new' and original head gaskets. and there are differences which you may be able to see with the engine in the car. specifically the top corners, front and rear. the originals have round holes in the corners, i think. the 'new' one have a rectangular stamp? in the corners. if you can find the corners on your engine you may be able to tell if it is old or new. has any one else seen this difference? or looked for it? has any one else been able to see, with the engine in the car, that the hgs have been changed? differences in the hg would be easier to see from below, there is less stuff in the way, but from what i could tell there are fewer if any differences in the bottom of the gaskets. i looked for new or old on my 97 obw and i did see the rectangular stamp on the rear top corner of the passenger side head. this gives me hope that the gaskets have been done but i have no confirmnation other than the fact that the car has 135k miles and no gunk in the coolant and no overheating. i bought it at 98k, it has piston slap, and i assumed the gaskets had not been done. but when comparing the pics of the new and old gaskets i decided to take a look. now i'm hopeful and worried i may be setting my self up for disappointment. but i got the car cheap and had a replacement engine waiting for it to overheat. i'm still waiting.

this is a link to the converter part number page, click on usage info for the legacy, it is used in both outbacks and lego L models. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/44111AC241/

search "diffcheck". you will find a thread with a way to check to see if the front and rear diffs match. i still would have thought that the FWD fuse would have cured the problem but who knows. clunking could maybe be an axle???? i don't know. i don't quite know where to start. maybe a dealer or 'good' subie mechanic diagnosis, just to eliminate some things. you don't have to get them to do the repairs, just get a price quote.

be sure you remove the head bots i the proper order to avoid warping th heads. search 'head bolt procedure' , i think, for a recent thread.

john newton, tricked919 may have heads in good conditin which you could buy and install. they came off of his 97 outback, he just bought it with new head gaskets when it developed a rod knock. (this is not uncommon in ej25s that have been severly over heated.) contact him, maybe you can save some money. do you need both or only one head? or do you know?

john newton might could use your threads if price is right and shipping from nc to tx isn't too much. this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112858&highlight=valves

how did the vac hoses work out? any left hanging or plugged? congrats on the swap. ps: there may be someone on the board who needs a good head or 2. (but he may have already pulled his and sent them to the machine shop.) i'll have to look for the thread, you could save him some bucks and pay back your self some bucks.

your symptoms are not typical, at least they are new to me. i do not see how you can have binding if the rear wheels are not engaged or driving. but aside from that if the fuse is in and if FWD is lit then the duty c is probably working. i say that because my son's 95 lego had occasional binding and blinking AT Temp light at start up. sometimes the FWD light would come on and solve the binding and some times it was off and he had binding. we finally pulled the rear section of the drive shaft and he's happy with a FWD car. even after we pulled the drive shaft, we left the fuse in and he reports that occasionally the FWD light comes on but usually he gets a flashing AT Temp at start up. so back to you, i think if the FWD light is on the duty c is working. i think your problem is a gummed up valve body and / or gummed up clutch plates. i don't really know. and i think the only way for you to be sure is to replace everything in the transfer clutch housing, solenoid valve assembly and the clutch plates. but this is all based on my limited experience. if it were mine i'd be driving it as a FWD car with the rear section of drive shaft out. and i'd search for a bad trans with, if possible, a known good transfer clutch and plan on installing it with a new duty c before winter. second to that i'd look for any ole rear extension housing, they all pretty much interchange, and inspect it and prep it with a new duty c for a fall swap. but that's just me. if you live in a subaru area, ne, nw, pa, you should be able to find a good rear housing for cheap. or look on craigslist for a car with a bad trans that they are parting out. good luck.

you still have torque bind after putting in the FWD fuse.? does the FWD light come on in the dash display? i'm not 100% sure 90 - 94s have it but the 95 - 99s do. the light should come on when you first turn the key when all the dash lights are tested, and then stay on when the fuse is in. what i'm getting at is you may have more than just a bad duty c solenoid. you could have gummed up clutch plates. on 95 - 99 legos, if the duty c is bad you will get a flashing AT Temp light on the dash. yours may be a different light but it should be lit as a warning indicator. i think you can get the duty c and 2 valve assembly gaskets (exact same gasket needed 2 times) for less (~ 80$ plus shipping) at https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html . you do not need the rear extension transfer case gasket, just use rtv ultra gray. take the individual part numbers from the partsforyou site and plug them in at genuinesubaru. don't forget to figure the shipping. if the fluid change helped, maybe give it some time and do it again?? EDIT: i just looked up the parts pricing and they are about the same. the duty c for a 95 is cheaper, but 96 - 98 are not much if any. i cannot believe that there is much difference in the duty c from 95 to 96 but you do not wan to go through this and have it not fix the problem. if it is gummed up, and the duty c still works, i wonder if a good cleaning of the valve body would help.?

the bolt certainly. i do not really see how the mass of the knuckle could break, but i feel like i have read about it happening, so just be careful and take it easy. if both the ball joint and the knuckle were new, you would not need to "pry" it open but with age things get dirty and rusty. and you have to completely remove the pinch bolt, just loosening will not work. and the other end of the bolt hole is open, spray it and the middle too.

sorta, the ej22 was / is a single cam engine. unlike your ej25 which is a dual cam engine. yours has 2 lobes on each side of the engine instead of just one. but in 99 - 00 the ej25 went to single cam. so if you stick with the 95 - 98 body style and the engine has one cam on each side it is a go. 95 - 96 have a sticker on the door jamb listing the build date and vin, 97 - 98 do not have the sticker. so look for the body style, look at the engine , look for the build date sticker. if it matches all 3 you are good to go. then double check with the id plate on the driver side strut tower, this will confirm it is an ej22 but not the year. the ej22 was also in SOME imprezas in the 90s. check the id tag. (ps: 95s have a S in the vin near the middle, 96s have a T, 97s a V, 98 = W) again, you want an engine from a auto trans car.

i guess it could be but usually they do not leak. it could be the oil pump / o-ring, crank seal, cam seals, cam cap o-rings, and /or the oil seperator plate on the rear of the engine behind the flex plate. all of these leak over time. forgot to include the valve cover gaskets. when the timing covers come off look for oil stains. when the engine comes out replace all of the above. if it is dripping on the ground, i vote for the oil pump, but do them all anyway. by the way, does any one know the direction of flow for the oil?? does the oil suck up from the pan through the o-ring or does it pump out to the engine through the o-ring??

search for posts by user tricked919 he's working on a swap right now and has asked virtually all the question you are just starting to ask. he has started several threads over the last couple of weeks. read them from oldest to newest. and you will get a good education. then if you still need help, ask, that's why we are here. basically you want a 95 - 98 2.2L from an auto trans car. some are easier than others, but read up and then ask.

yes, the exhaust leaks into the coolant, that includes gases, oils and unburned fuel. this shows up as really black junk in the overflow. one i saw looked like the inside of the overflow had been sprayed with bed liner. i would look for a good 2.2L engine, less work and money.

i wouldn't put in a EJ25 with out replacing the head gaskets first. and go for the ones in the wrecks first, they are more likely to have been running well at the end and not overheated. check for gunk in the radiator overflow bottle, if it is there.

if the strut bolts are still in and the sway bar has been disconnected you should be able to pry down on the control arm and leave the knuckle hanging. but my lower ball joint was problematic so i removed the whole knuckle and then remove the ball joint.. note: after i got the pinch bolt out, use lots of pblaster and be patient, i drove a large screw driver as a wedge in the gap to spread it a bit to loosen it up. not too much, i have heard of one side busting off.