johnceggleston

i think i'd drive it back. running rough is running and a second driver could be as easy as '' honey, lets go for a drive...." or better yet, take your tools and set the timing belt correctly and then drive it back. the slow/ hard part will be compressing the tensioner, see other post. remove valve covers, crank pulley, one idler, set the timing correctly, put it back together. you can always rent a tow dolly and haul it if you can't fix it or drive it.

go to lowes and buy a large c clamp. make sure it is large enough. crank it slowly, 1/8 turn every 10 seconds.

3 online subaru parts suppliers. https://www.chaplinssubarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/ http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ suggestion: there are tons of bad 2.5L engines around with bad head gaskets. usually the heads off of these only need to be checked for flatness and re-installed. some need to be machined. having the heads checked and milled may be cheaper than replacing valves. but until you know which and how many cylinders need valves you will not have anything to compare. call a machine shop and see what it takes to have a head checked. one shop that does a fair number of these told me that these heads are so short that they almost never warp, but i do not know if this is true. 2 questions for the rest of the board: how often do overheated 2.5L engines need to have the heads milled? is it a good or bad idea to use "used" valves as replacements, just wondering?

chances are that it is a "manual" button. it has to do with what gear the auto trans stays in. i don't really know, when i owned a 03 i wasn't paying attention to the details. i didn't even read the owners manual, i just drove it . the 95 - 99? auto trans do not have the button. but when you put it in 1 it stays in 1, when you put it in 2 it stays in 2 (never in 1), when you put it in 3 it will shift automatically up from 1 to2 to 3 as needed (but never in 4). any way, the manual button has some function similar to that, i think. be sure to look under the car for the drive shaft and rear differential. you don't want to be disappointed when you get it home. does this car run??? why not?

except for the fact that you don't have any money, a valve job on a 115k 2.5L outback is not a bad investment, and probably 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of the quoted engine. even less if you and your dad do it together. plus, the only draw back to this engine is the potential for the head gaskets to fail, so doing the valves will eliminate that potential and you will have a car that will go 100k if not 150 or more. pull the engine, remove the heads and send them out to the machine shop, put it back together with all new timing belt parts and stick it back in the car. the machine shop will cost and the timing belt kit and head gaskets will cost but your labor is free. if you can do the timing belt you can probably do the head gaskets. your other option is to install a used 2.2L engine, but the shop will charge about the same as the 2.5L engine. you can do it your self, it's not hard, but you will still want to do a new timing belt kit so that adds to the cost. lots of folks here will give you 800$ for your car as is if you want rid of it.

it sounds like you have at least 2 problems, starter contacts and the temp sensor, maybe more. if you have the ability to do the repairs yourself, even if you are going to sell the car it makes sense to do them. but if you have to pay retail to have the repairs done you need to weigh that against what the cars is worth repaired and what it is worth as-is. and then subtract the repair cost from the repaired price. if the extra money is worth it then you have your decision. neither of these are major repairs. hopefully you can get it repaired cheap enough so you get some real money out of it or drive it for years to come. good luck.

when you look at the opposed forces web site you will see that the TY number is a trans 'code' number not a part number. and when searching on the salvage yard web site, http://www.car-part.com, if the code numbers are different then the trans must be different even though this is not always the case. opposed forces will list the code numbers for the different years and maybe even different part numbers for different years, but they will also show that multiple years used the the different numbered parts. the vc you need was probably used 90 - 99 at the very least.

i have followed this and your other thread, it sounds like you are stuck. if the engine came from a local yard, i would consider taking it back and re-negotiating the price so you can afford to do the gaskets, buy it for the no warranty price (generally the warranty price is higher) or now that you 'know' just return it and look for a lower priced engine. if the yard is looking at putting it back on the shelf, you may get a better deal. and returning it to them cost them less than if they have to replace it. you may get nothing. tell them if they are confident in the engine they can always sell it to the next guy. the problem is the distance to the yard. this may not be practical.

first, there were no outbacks in 94, the 95 outbacks may have a 94 build date so it could be yours. second, the viscous coupling in the manuals are fairly common and do not change often. look at link below for a part number and usage information, that will help you find what years vc will work. http://opposedforces.com/parts

it may not have one, the legacy doesn't. just the outback in the late 90s. but if it is there it is behind the left rear tail light bulb access panel.

pull the bolt out as far as it will go, then slide the head out the same way. then lift both up. the bolt is too long to clear the head, but not too long to clear the block.

this sounds similar to the broken wiring problem which causes the rear wiper not to work. look for bad wires where they move from the wagon body to the hatch.

my 97 outback is 75 inches mirror to mirror. i do not believe the 91 is 15 inches narrower. cars 101 lists the width of my outback as 67 inches. you can rent a car carrier for less than 75$, you just need a good size vehicle to tow it. towing with a rope is unsafe, towing a car for an hour with a rope is dangerous and negligent. don't do it. a manual trans subaru can be towed with all 4 wheels on the ground. an auto trans should be on a trailer with all 4 wheels off the ground. or if you remove the rear section of the drive shaft you can use a tow dolly with the front wheels on the dolly and the rear wheels on the ground. you still need a good size vehicle to pull it.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive.html#1990%20legacy

it looks like you're right, different flywheel. it isn't shown as being used on the legacy. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_2/engine/flywheel/illustration_1/ although this link shows the impreza ej18 AWD shared a flywheel with the ej22, so i don't know. (click on usage for each) http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/12310AA091/

i have never compared the 2 belts side by side so i do not really know, but the change intervals are dramatically different. 60k for the fed and 105k for the calf belt, so yes they are different. all the other parts, idlers, water pump, tensioner, are the same. the t-belt job is the same for 95 and 91 2.2L engines.

did you replace the o2 sensor?

yes, counter clockwise as you look at it . if it is a manual trans you can put it in gear with the wheels on the ground. or you can use the engine bump method. put the socket / breaker bar on the bolt and brace it against the frame of the car next to the battery. then bump the starter, it should break loose.

yes, auto trans anyway, pretty sure the 5 speed is the same. subaru isn't large enough to have a different trans for the limpreza. would this be a FWD 5 speed? then no rear diff to match.

are your brights on.? the fogs only work with the low beams.

there is a pretty good chance that changing the fluid will help. if you can change your oil you can do the drain and fill several times and save 100$. but either way new clean fluid may help. if it doesn't you can always swap in the rear extension housing from the bad trans. i doubt the fluid in the cooler or lines would cause any problems, most of it should have drained out when the trans was pulled. do all 4 tires match??

i think they moved the FWD fuse holder into the fuse box around '99, look there. pmxer, do you have a FWD lite on the dash? this would indicate the fuse is in place and you have front wheel drive only. some 99s and maybe 00 auto trans have a problem 'catching' when shifting frome P or R to D. there is a fix in a bottle that some have good luck with. what is funny about your 1-2 shift??

the rear has 2 plugs. a low one for draining and a higher one for filling. they can be difficult to remove because there isn't a lot of clearance for a breaker bar and or a pipe extension which will probably be needed to remove the plugs. i had mine topped off at a shop once, it was leaking, and the tech used a 4 ft. bar to torque it back in. i busted several cheap tools trying to remove it the next time. i finally gave up. always remove the upper fill plug first. that way you are garranteed to have oil in it even if the lower one will not come out. if you do it the other way around, you could end up with no oil in the diff and no way to fill it.

true up through 95 or 96, at least for legos.

i think there was a rash of sticker thefts which were then being put on old gen subarus so they could be sold to unsuspecting buyers as 1998 brats.