johnceggleston

this is correct. for the auto trans 95 - 99: ALL ej22 cars have the 4.11 ratio. ALL ej25 cars have the 4.44 ratio. possible exception, WRX, i have no experience with them. you can confirm this easily for individual cars, year , model, engine, at Subaru parts catalog ( opposedforces.com/parts ) put in the specifics and then look in the ''TRAIN'' section for the rear diff. it will list the ratio with the ring and pinion part numbers.

this is the front diff dip stick. the ATF dip stick is at the fire wall center of the engine, slightly drivier side, it is under the AC and heater hoses. check both fluids to make sure he didn't put ATF in the diff, or failed to refill the trans. not on the auto trans, only the manual trans. not uncommon on the 00 auto trans. a fluid change ( 3 drain and fills ) plus a qt of TRANS-X should control it. but not if the trans is low on fluid.

see this this : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149936-motor-swap/

my earlier post had a typo, which i have corrected. in order to mak the 98 ej22 engine from a manual trans car work, you will need an intake manifold from and ej22 AUTO trans car w/ EGR. the intake from the ej25 WILL NOT WORK. the work around Using a NON-EGR engine in Subaru with EGR - Submit a Tip or Mod to the USRM - Ultimate Subaru Message Board

there are 2 problems with the swap. 1/ the 98 ej22 from a manual trans usually does not have EGR. the 98 ej25 in the outbacks ALL need EGR. this means you will have a CEL and a trouble code all the time. the car will run fine, but resale may be an issue. and if a CEL in your state will fail an inspection, then you are toast. it can be over come by installing an intake from an EGR ej22, 95 - 98. but you will have to use the EGR ''work around''. an intake manifold will run about $65 - $75. so add that to the cost of the 98 ej22 replacement engine, and see if you can find a 95 ej22 with EGR for less. the 95 ej22 with EGR is the EASIEST engine swap available. www.car-part.com the 95 ej22 with NO EGR (manual trans car) will also work, but you need an egr intake and do the ''work around'' . 2/ the 96 - 98 ej22 w/ EGR (auto trans car) will work, but you need the exhaust manifold, y-pipe. confused yet? ej22 engines w/ EGR that will swap in preferred order: 95 ej22 w/ egr, (auto trans car) 96 - 98 ej22 w/ egr, (auto trans car) - you will need the matching exhaust y-pipe. non-EGR ej22 engines that will work in preferred order: 95 ej22 w/ no egr, (manual trans car) ''work around required''. 96 - 98 ej22 w/ no egr, (manual trans car) - you will need the matching exhaust y-pipe, ''work around'' required . the workaround is not hard, but you will need the intake manifold, about $75.

that would make it an ej25D, 96 - 99, DOHC, since the 02 is SOHC. since the engine in your parents car was swapped, it could be a 99 ej25, which did in fact use a phase 2 block, 00 - 04, with the DOHC heads, 96 - 99, from the factory. but the intake and heads MUST match since the phase 1 intake and the phase 2 will not swap. they will bolt on the other phase heads. this is true, kind of..... a complete engine will NOT work with out a CEL and trouble code. you can make it work, and it will run, (ask gloyal) but you will have a light all the time. plus, i think we have already covered the block only vs. a complete engine. but when someone asks a generic question about phase 2 engines in a phase 1 car, better to be straight forward and definite, no maybes, or they might waste their time and money on the wrong engine and end up with a HUGE headache. besides , answering NO is less typing than explaining the details.

check for loose ground wires. i had an 00 lego auto trans that acted a little like this. it would down shift for no reason. it finally started flashing the AT Temp light while driving. i could find no info on that. but my problem was a loose ground wire on top of the engine. i forgot to tighten it when i did the head gaskets 6 months earlier. but i bumped it loose when swapping an axle just before the problem started.

NO

use this link to see if the final drive ratios match. i do not think 91 and 94 are the same. 91 = 4.11 94 = 3.9 but double check. Final Drive Ratio 90 - 94

the short answer is NO, you cannot use 00 - 04 engines in the 95 - 99 cars. or vice versa. the impreza had the phase 2 ej22 in 99 - 00, but none were made for the 02 cars. double check your info.

where??? more like 1.5 gallons, 6 qts.

a cooling system leak is more common. i have just found the cause of my problem, passenger side radiator fan doesn't work. it got so hot it blew a hole in the rad near the top hose, and the steam warped the top edge of the grille. i didn't suspect the fan until the new rad didn't fix the problem. but it did not blow the head gaskets!!!!!!!!!!!! i love the ej22. so yes, fill and burp properly, and find the cooling system leak. of course you will need a good working radiator. but they are less than $100.

ok, that does not mean you used the correct timing marks . NOT the ARROWS, NEVER the ARROWS.

did you check the idlers when the belt was off? did you replace them 30k miles ago with the belt.? the timing is probably off. what timing marks did you use? how many timing belts have you put on? btw, what year, model, miles, trans, and color is your car?

i agree. and you would have to drive with a torn bellows a long time to damage enough to leak. and this is the reallly strange part, to me at least, i have never seen one leak, and you have THREE!!!!!!!!!!! how is that possible.? are you sure the o-ring isn't leaking at the reservoir / pump connection? that is common.

generally speaking yes, this is acceptable. but it may depend on the year of the car being towed. i can't imagine an 05 would have a limitation, but i do not know. towing as described is correct for the 90 - 04 AWD cars. what year outback.?

i doubt it, but i do not know.

if the seat wiring is present, there will be 2 multi wire connectors, one blue, drivers seat, and one white, passenger seat. no connectors means no wiring. yes about the 2 screws.

it has been my experience that if your car was offered ''heated seats'' as an option when new, then the wiring would be there. one connector under the center console is BLUE. if it is there you have the wiring. at least most of it. remove the 2 screws where the console meets the arm rest ''compartment'' and take a look.

i would replace the all idlers including the one for the tensioner. i would not replace the tensioner unless it is damaged, leaking or does not work. how old is the belt? maybe it is ok. they rarely fail, but your best priced kit is going to include one. so i'd replace it. most folks would recommend replacing the water pump as well. and as mentioned, cam & crank seals as well as the oil pump o-ring. if you do all this, you will set to drive 60k miles. the parts are going to cost $150 - $200. there are several good write ups on what you need, where to get parts, and how to do it. do a search. these 2 are a start., youtube will have a bunch as well. > TIMING BELT ARTICLES <____________________________ > Timing Belt Pictures <

the only reason i would buy a new pulley and sprocket is if i were in a hurry and needed to be back on the road today. some one has these parts sitting on a shelf as we type. ask around or post in the ''wanted'' section. and yes you need to remove the crank sprocket. the black gook could be worn belt rubber and engine oil leaking out through the cam shaft seal. maybe left over from the last belt change. the key way is a non-issue, except it may be difficult removing the sprocket. if you reinstall a good sprocket, pulley, woodruff key, and maybe the bolt is damaged, align everything correctly and torque to 127 - 135 ft. lbs., you will be good. the slop in the key way is in the unbolt direction. when aligned properly and torqued, the parts will stay in the proper place. once torqued properly, they will not move. the key only holds them in the correct position. the bolt does the the real work. you should also consider replacing cam & crank seals and the oil pump o-ring.

if the t-stat is altered or bad, , it may let you drive it longer until you are forced to repair / swap the engine. but the gasket leak is slowly getting worse every time you drive. and eventually it will loose coolant / overheat, even if it has no t-stat. so plan ahead accordingly.

i put heated leather seats in my 97 GT. (from an 97 - 98 obw) they did not work. apparently i was missing either a fuse / holder or a relay. so i just ran another power wire.

one other thing, the cloth seats heat up quicker. leather is thicker and insulated more. imho, that is the only draw back.

any ej22 pulley from 90 - 98 will work. same with the crank sprocket. it may be sloppy as well.