johnceggleston

when you check the bolt after it stripped did you see ant metal filings from the bad threads?? what i'm getting at is this, is there a chance, based on gary's description of how it is supposed to work, that the pin/sleeve was not seated properly when you were torquing it and the whole pin spun in the bracket.? or the "square head" was rounded? i'd be tempted to replace the sleeves and go. they must press in to the bracket. there doesn't seem like there would be a lot of side to side stress on these bolts/pins once the caliper is in place, front to rear stress yes. with the rotor in there the caliper cannot move to the side but so much. just guessing. i'm sure there was a reason for the design change, but i do not see it.

they used to put a sticker on the b-pillar, the door column. but they stopped doing that in 96 or 97. i assume since you cannot find the sticker with the build date that you have a 97 or later. it is now located on the bottom of the driver door. you have to get on the ground to see it and if you wear reading glasses they may not be strong enough. my nose ends up being very close to the sticker.

so i removed the valve cover and rockers today and what was left of the cam shaft. there was no indication of seizing and no scoring of any kind. so i swapped in the cam shaft, sprocket and valve cover from the 96 and put it back together. i do not really know what caused it to bust, maybe an accident. it is a salvage yard engine after all. but i'm betting on it being ok. thanks for the help. my next engine is the 2.5 i'm pulling. it also has a busted cam sprocket, busted t-belt and i assume bent valves. my plan is to repair the valves, replace the gaskets and put it in back in an outback. it will be interesting to see what the cam shaft looks like on that one. thanks again for the help. john

you haven't answered any of the questions posed. we will only be guessing unless some one has had the exact same problem. and even then there could be more than one cause and solution. can you shift it out of gear when it car is off.? does the shifter move into other gear positions but the trans does not? you mentioned trouble going into first, was that before it got stuck in third?

they also some made down there with dual a range trans.

i think something like carb cleaner will make them look like that but not necessary. just clean up the sealant, tighten the backing plate, put in a new o-ring and re-install.

i just resealed the oil pump on a 95 ej22 to swap into a 97 outback. the last guy to work on it used WAY too much sealant. there was a bead of excess equal to what is shown below on both the inside and the outside of the oil pump. some of which was pumped through the engine oil passages. as a result the passenger side cam seized and broke. question: what is the chance that another part of the engine has been oil starved??? my plan is to replace the cam shaft, sprocket, and mounting brackets and go ahead with the swap. any suggestions?? at first glance it looked like it was damaged in an accident. but when i put my hand on it to try and turn it, what was left of the sprocket and about 2 inches of shaft came off in my hand. i have a spare head and all asorted parts, 96 not 95. my plan was to swap in the busted parts and shaft mounts, are you saying the head is at risk?? wait a minute, i think i got it. the shaft rides in the head, not on mounts like the rockers. i guess i should swap the head. can i have it checked at a machine shop. would it be repairable? how should i proceed?? i had not planned on doing a head gasket on this engine. is it dumb to do only one side, only one side is damaged.?? thanks

i have an a/c idler bearing if you need one.

there are 3 vac lines in the second picture, 2 going to the right (in the pic) and one lower that comes off of the intake, not the throttle body, going to the left and under the throttle body next to the pcv. where does that one go??

just my limited opinion, that looks like a lot of sealant. i would spread it with my finger and remove any excess. i just did this on a 95 ej22 to swap into a 97 outback. the last guy to work on it used WAY too much sealant. there was a bead of excess equal to what is shown in the pic above on both the inside and the outside of the oil pump. some of which was pumped through the engine oil passages. as a result the passenger side cam seized and broke. question: what is the chance that another part of the engine has been oil starved??? my plan is to replace the cam shaft, sprocket, and mounting brackets and go ahead with the swap. any suggestions??

the o-ring, is this on the intake or the output side of the pump?? seems it would be on the side drawing oil from the pan.

good catch, do you have any hair left??

how did you solve this??

there is a recent thread on this with good debate on both sides. search compressor + clutch + used and read more recent ones.

Igniter assembly 22438AA041 alternate: 22438AA042 '93, October — '94, June 22438AA043 alternate: 22438AA044 '94, July — '95, June '94, November — '96, June '95, December — '97, July '96, July — '98, May https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html >electrical >ignition system >ignihter $186 plus shipping

if you do not have the o-ring for the oil pump i think i'd leave it alone unless there is a lot of oil leaking out there. maybe use the one from your outback. it maybe newer. the rtv seal on the pump body holds up better than the o-ring, i think. the cam caps are located, one passenger side on the rear of the head and the other on the driver front of the head, you'll see the one when you replace the cam seal. maybe use the ones from your outback. they may be newer. the ECU will be just fine, the ej25 has 4 cam shafts but only one cam sensor just like the ej22.

water pump and t-stat - yes, use them. also the idlers for the t-belt if they are new or better than yours. you do not want the section with the cats, just the section in front of them. no pre-cats there. DO NOT mess with the rear main seal unless you have to . they almost never leak and often they leak after they have been changed. the oil seperator plate always leaks. the oil sep plate on the back side can be re-sealed, but if it is cracked then no. if it is plastic, i highly recommend replacing it. if metal then re-seall. look here for real subaru parts: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html . if needed ask about overnight shipping if that is easier than driving to the dealer nearest you. check the one on your outback as well. use RTV to seal it up. do not use too much. you do not want it to ooze into the engine. ask for it at your local advance or autozone store. use it on the oil pump as well SPARINGLY. i repeat, SPARINGLY, not a bead but a THIN layer spread with your finger. do not forget : o-ring for the oil pump dealer item?? o-rings for cam caps, came with seals?? exhaust manifold gaskets - parts store? the plug wires will not work. the plugs i do not know about. drive belts i do not know.

others will know more, but i would address the coolant temp sensor code first, then move on to whatever else. the code is there for a reason. the temp sensor can cause the engine to run too rich. did you use subaru wires??

the next thing to consider is how much to do to the 2.2L engine before you install it? absolute minimum: rear oil sperator plate / cover (subaru only part). it's behind the flex plate and they tend to leak, do it while you can. as good as you are at engine R & R why wait if you can do it now. all the rest can be done any time but is easier with the engine out. and if you choose not to do the following, it only leaves you stranded if the t-belt or idler fails, not with a damaged engine. reccomemded: front oil seals and o-rings, cam & crank oil pump reseal, o-ring and check backing plate screws t - belt water pump all idlers plugs wires and maybe the valve cover gaskets. these things will run you 200$ - 300$, some parts, wires, seals & gaskets?, from subaru; some parts, water pump? t-belt and idlers, from the " importexperts" or the like on ebay. happy motoring!!

use 10w-30 maybe?? why is he using 20w-50??

the hub is pressed into the bearings and the bearings are pressed into the housing, all together they make up the knuckle. so you will need to "pull" the hub out before the bearing can be replaced. i'm surprised he could not press it out for you.

there are only 2 things other than the y-pipe you even have to consider and only one is required. 1. required - when you do the swap, you need to use the flex plate (flywheel) off of your 2.5L engine. it matches the trans torque converter and has to stay with the trans. 2. not needed but is nice - the power steering lines on the 2.5L engine work, but there are mid-point mounts that do not match up to the 2.2L engine. so if you get the power steering lines off of a 95 - 98 2.2L engine and swap it as well, the mid point mountings will match up. again this is not required. lot's of people have done the swap and used the original 2.5 L steering lines. the only other advice would be to read lots of threads about pulling and reinstalling the engine so you know what to expect and some tips to make it easier. and take some pics of where the tubes go for reference, that will help. i did a 96 2.2L swap into a 97 outback last year or so and had no problems. all the plumbing should be the same. by the way the 96 i referred probably was not an outback since it came out of an auto trans but that does not matter. it will drop right in. you need to read up on re-seating the torque converter before you install the engine. if it is not right you can screw your trans. there is a great how to with pictures but the last time i looked the pics were gone. search "torqueconverter" and read the oldest first.

26 is great for a daily driver. the only thing you might have done different would to have used an outback auto trans with a 4.44 final drive. it wouldn't have helped the MPG but it might have helped in the mountains. so the next time you have nothing to do .........

if you do find it a little under-powered, you can buy smaller tires when you wear out the ones you now have. dropping down to a 195/70/15 will help. you could even go smaller. but i don't think you will need to.

found this one, price is higher than some others but it is close and has an exceptional warranty. you will need the exhaust y-pipe with this one another $50??. 1996 Engine Subaru Legacy 7 month warranty 161,368 A1HE0286 $650 Johnson Auto Recycling USA-NC(Asheville) 1-800-222-0815 or this one: 1995 Engine Subaru Legacy ran good per tb 154,031 A00028041 $350 Import Auto Salvage USA-NC(Marion) 1-1-800-962-8922