johnceggleston

look here: www.car-part.com , sort your search by distance to see what is close. you will probably have to search 95, and 96 seperately, but 97 - 98 will come up together. when you call, ask for the actual year of the engine you found, not the year of your car, and remember to ask if it is an auto trans. that is usualy the EGR indicator. or craigslists, i neded a trans for a 95 lego and got a wrecked 96 for 400$. used the trans and saved the engine for a 97 GT that had bad head gaskets. i sold a few pieces and then scrapped it. there are several sites that will let you search multiple craigslists location at the same time. i use crazedlist.org, but there are others. if you pull and install yourself, you can easily do this for under $1000, probably under $700. less if you do not do the timing belt, seals, valve covers and oil seperator on the rear. but you will want to do those, it's worth it.

did you remove the rear diff? what kind of mileage do you get? any hiway miles?

FWD auto ej18 97 LSi !!

there have been several threads on this in the past. some feel it has to do with the axles. but my personal feeling is if it isn't mounts it is something in the trans that is "grabbing" more than it should. but that it just my opinion based on my own logic and observation, no actual evidence.

it is manufactured by a different company, search "block chek" (no second c in chek). they market to distributors, and maybe shops, but apparently not individuals. no pricing on the website. but they do show the products and instructions on how to use. you load the "tube" with the test liquid, place it in the mouth of the radiator and let the exhaust gases in the coolant push up into the tube. if it turns to yellow? you have a head gasket leak. replacement test liquid available. i liked someone's idea acouple of years ago. put a cabon monoxide detector in a ziplock bag and tape the bag over the mouth of the radiator. run the car at idle and wait. it worked!!!!

how are you filling / burping the radiator??

the pinch bolts have a habit of breaking, use lots of pblaster. i have never had a problem with removing the control arm from the ball joint. it is spring loaded though when the dtrut bolts are in place. i usually use some version of a pry bar, carefull not to tear the ball joint boot. and i have boogered the threads of a tie rod ball joint by beating on it, even with the nut on. so be careful.

i don't know. i think new, $260 headlights might look better. just kidding, they look great. congrats!!

why do you need a radiator? what is the car / radiator doing? you might contact mdjdc, ha has a forester he is parting out and a line on an 01 outback. he's in richmond and may be able to help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109611&highlight=parting http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112214&highlight=parting

see post #9 in the thread below: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62310&highlight=knock+sensor+angle

i think he meant the finished angle of the knock sensor connector in relation to the block. it is supposed to be mounted at a specific angle to function properly. i would match the existing angle unless you have reason to believe it is wrong, but hopefully someone will chime in with the correct info.

i could be very wrong but, if you have gas running down the side of the tank, it isn't a hole on top. a hole on top would only leak when the tank is 100% full. but i guess it could be close to the top. does it leak when ever you put gas in it? only when you fill it all the way up? or whenever you run the car? you have been dealing with this way longer than we have so you know way more than we do, but it would be nice to eliminate some stuff before you pull the tank.

no AWD could mean no AT fluid pressure. this could be a clogged fluid passage way or maybe "gummed" up transfer clutch plates. but my guess is worn, notched, hubs. there have been others with no AWD and i seem to remember that the worn notches were the problem. any one else remember this, or have a thought???

i'm pretty sure this is a NO, but could you use one of those small air compressors that come in a road ememgency kit. you know, given enough time it will inflate a tire, but not if it has a good size hole in it. only if it is a slow leak. would that work for a leak down test? we are only talking about ~0.6 of a liter, way less than a tire.

my mistake, that is for the 97 alt. i wonder if it would fit.?

any idea what is wrong with the engine?

EDIT: 97 outback alternator Alternator, Alternator REMAN ALTERNATOR List Price : $78.75 Your Price : $68.63 plus $9 shipping https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

was this in the area of the back seat or the rear cargo area?? i cooked the capet i had on the bed of a 90 nissan pickup, damn near killed my dog. the muffler / pipe was boogered and rotten and it was pointed at the bed. new pipes fixed it.

i just polished mine, 95 lego and 97 gt, last weekend. i bought the 3M kit at advance auto with the drill attachment. came with everthing you need for ~$23. it took less than 2 hours for both cars. i opened the hood and left the lights in the car. and i got to drink beer while i did it. the only thing you need that's not in the kit is masking tape. i used blue painters tape because i had it on hand. you need to reconsider your decision not to polish.

some one posted a link recently for a 1" lift kit for a legacy. it was designed for the top of the strut and since the outback struts can be used on legacys and imprezas i searched and found the they did indeed list the same lift kit for those other cars. i wish i had bookmarked the site. so i think the answer is yes. but when swapping outback struts in to an impreza, you have to turn? rotate the top hats, i think. that might complicate things but i doubt it.

i don't think you are going to get an accurate compression test with the engine out of the car. it needs to turn over at "starter" speed with wide throttle. that is going be hard to do without the starter.

if you swap in a 2.5L engine you run the risk of bad head gaskets right off, and certainly down the road. not a big deal if you get a warranty and sell it.

A - is / was likely the reset button for the remote lock / unlock / alarm, which it appears to be in the background of the BCD pic, large white connector which is not being used. E - the green plugs are some of the diagnostic plugs. there should be a pair of black ones as well in the same general area. leave both pair unplugged D - looks like the antenna wire for the remote lock / alarm unit. follow it back and you will find the unit. it may be what i saw in the background of BCD. as a matter of fact, the remote lock unit in my 97OBW looks just like that and the unused connectors on the unit are for the alarm part of the system that may not have been opted for, lock / unlock only. B - i don't know G - i don't know but it maybe might could be part of the lock / unlock system. C - looks like a computer module of some kind ????

i would replace rather than rebuild, but i've never cracked a subaru block so i don't really know. i have done the 2.2L swap and that's what i'd look for in a replacement engine. 95 auto 2.2L engine would be your ideal swap engine. 96 same would be next, you would also need the y-pipe for the exhaust. 97 - 98 would be next, needs the y-pipe. they drop in, do the timing belt and stuff, drive it for 100k.

is it frothy like lots of air bubbles or is it like mixed with water, brown milkshake frothy??