johnceggleston

how about a long coat hanger? the shaft is hollow to move fluid so a long wire hook might grab the back lip? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/automatic_transmission/at_torque_converter_and_converter_case/illustration_3/ there are 2 "shafts" both are tubes, i think if you pull the thinner one the larger one will come too.

it doesn't sound good. i would have put the flat blade of the screw driver in the slot in the senors hole, and rotated the wheel. the screw driver should have rotated when the wheel did. but the way you did it may be ok if you you got the screwdriver in the slot and you did not force it to turn.

a second opinion is in order. sounds like it is time to go to a front end shop for a diagnosis. not a national chain tire store that also does alignments, i mean a real front end shop. find out what the problem is, get a price and then decide if you want them to do the work. as far as camber goes, i have heard that you can guestimate it in these cars by setting to the max. it will not be right but it will not be far out, I THINK!!! there is no way a quality shop could align the front end correctly and it will wear out tires. even if some parts need to be replaced, they should see that when they do the alignment. just my opinion.

pic #2 looks a lot like the MAF connector on a 970bw. did 94s have a maf?

if the torque bind was still there after the rear diff swap there is a good chance the diff wasn't bad, but that is water under the bridge. who diagnosed the bad rear diff? who replaced it? was the same shop who says the trans is doomed in 10 minutes. where did the new diff come from? what is the ratio of the new diff? i would check to see if it is the correct ratio before going any further. search "diffcheck" and follow the instructions in the oldest thread. the car will always bind if the rear diff does not match. diff are pretty hardy and do not fail often. you probably do need a transfer clutch repair since you had torque bind and never addressed it, but i'm not sure i'd trust the shop that replaced the diff when it was really the transfer clutch. if that is what really happened. check to see if the diffs match. remove the rear section of drive shaft and see if it still whines. if yes, i would swap the trans. you could repair the transfer clutch, but if it still whines after the repair then what. but the whining will probably be gone. and then you have the question of repair or replace. by the way, my son has been driving a 95 lego awd with the rear section of shaft removed for the last 30k miles, now at 200k+.

i came across this, i don't know anything about the quality of the work, but R & R a subaru engine for 350$ is a pretty good deal. includes new oil, filter and coolant. http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/1728929525.html i would think a mechanic's stethoscope would help track down where the noise is coming from.

+1, always pull the engine, the only time to pull the trans is if you have to replace it. i have one on the wall, so does anyone else who's done a 2.2 swap.

the top attachment is a bolt, 14mm socket. the bottom is a nut on a stud, 17mm, which i found so difficult from above that i reached from below. mostly so i could see it.

if the front speed sensor is good and the speedo is good and the wire inbetween is good then it may be the speedo drive gears inside the trans. they are not user friendly.

at least some of the years, late 90s, have the vin etched on the bell housing, passenger side, low, where it meets the trans. but i have only seen them with the engine out of the car and the numbers are small.

well i know you can't use the 97 trans WITHOUT the wiring harness. the connectors are different. i have never heard of any one doing it by swapping the harness and tcu. i would be very surprised if it works, but i have been surprised before. there is a chance you might need the ecu as well but i doubt it. why not just get a 99-03 auto trans?

look here if it doesn't work out with dave. http://www.car-part.com

something has changed somewhere. weather stripping installed correctly??

215/60 is about 1/4 inch larger (6mm) in radius, center to top, than the stock 205/60. this is where it counts, there is nothing to rub against on the bottom. this should be fine if you have been running 205/70 which is 20.5mm taller radius or a little more than 3/4 inch radius, 1.6 inches diameter. you should be fine if the ones you now have only rub sometimes. check out the calculator to see the difference in speedo readings http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

it sounds like you need to visit a shop that can analyze your exhaust gasses so you will know. then you can make an informed decision.

so when my wife says "it just quit running come and get me" i'd know what really happened.

how hard would this be to create with a scangage or similar, plus a computer hard drive??

when you say no spark, how did you determine that? which 2 have no spark? front, rear, left or right? front or rear would be a coil problem, left or right could be a timing belt problem. try swapping the plug wires from no spark to yes spark to see if the problem follows the wire or stays with the cylinder.

i can guess, is it a code 666?? that's the one that flashed on the bridge of the starship enterprise just before they passed through the nebula into the alternate universe that had the evil spock with the gotee.

there are no timed cel's in 90 - 99 subarus. probably none in any. if the cel is on there is or was a fault. go to a parts store and have it read.

oops! you're right, i didn't look far enough. apparently up through 03/04 they were all the same. sti and others? are different in 05/06 and beyond.

nope. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_8/lubrication_system/oil_pan/ if you click on the part number for the dip stick, item #2, and then click on the 'usage info' tab for your car and other cars and years, you will see that they only make one dip stick and they used it for all ej engines, 1.8L, 2.2L and 2.5L. EDIT: at least up through 2003. \ i didn't look for the h6 info. replace yours if it is not stock, some one on the board has one they can ship to you.

gary, the last time this guy logged on was in jan. from my limited experience, the process should be the same but once the TC is a few inches out of the trans housing you can remove the wire spring clip that separates it from the shaft. the first time i looked at a tc with the shaft attached i missed the spring clip but its there. i don't know how hard it is to remove "in place". good luck.

and NO, it will not save gas by driving with the fuse in so don't even ask. although lots of people have over the years.

i had a rear caliper that would hang up, the slides needed to be re-greased. but after certain braking situations it would drag and chirp. in addition to needing grease the rotor was warped. anyway, if i applied the brakes very slightly it would eliminate the chirp.