johnceggleston

no difference, nada. search www.car-part.com and the software will return both years for which ever one you entered. you can also use an outback 96 - 98 or a 96 gt or a 96 - 97 LSi .

if the crank sprocket was in the correct timing position, or close, you are probably ok. when it is in that position all of the pistons are at the mid point and the valves should clear. but if the crank sprocket was not in or near the correct position you will have to wait and see. however, since it is a double OHC, it is isn't it, the valves on one cam could be bumping the valves on the other cam.

1. i didn't know it was "subaru's" website, just some one selling/hosting ads. 2. i remember some one saying it was hosted in germany or somewhere. 3. it is a great part number site once you get the hang of it, not perfect but really good.

if you did both fronts and one was different, then the 2 pot probably was a replacement. what car are you working on. you should pump up your brakes after replacement, BEFORE you drive it. when you push the pistons in so you can get the new pads to fit around the rotor, you push fluid back into the master cylinder. you need to pump them up to refill the system. did you disconnect any of the brake fluid lines???

this may help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59033

air fuel intake, compression, spark, you have to have all 3 to get an engine to run.

you are welcome, but it isn't a car it is just an engine, from a salvage yard. another option would be to buy a good head, but if the car has been over heated it may be better to swap the whole thing. there are others if you search the link i gave you. i used a lansing zip code, you can use your own and sort the search by distance. you may get luckier than i did.

to re-cap, you got this car free or almost free and the engine came in pieces, correct? and after you got it back together it would not run.? apparently you took it apart again and found a crack in the head and tried to repair it, correct? i'm not going to re-read all of the posts, did it have good compression? did you look here for an engine? 90 - 94 will work: www.car-part.com maybe 95 - 96 or maybe not they are obd2. where in michigan? 1992 Engine Subaru Legacy(2.2L, VIN '6' 6th digit), w/o turbo-- 100K $350 Abcat Auto Salvage USA-MI(Ypsilanti) 1-800-869-6933

timing belts, idlers, and waterpumps along with seal and gasket kits can be bought from "theimportexperts" on ebay. good quality parts for a very good price. some folks will say use only subaru seals. not very many people here go as far as spliting an engine block. of course some of the pros here do it on a regular basis, but most of us are of the shade tree variety and why split a block when you can get a replacement engine for 300$ or less. but that's just my opinion. i would think a subaru online dealer would be your best source for rings and bearings, but i have never bought either, so what do i know? aftermarket may be just fine if it is a reputable company. i like : www.subarugenuineparts.com jamie thomas, "subie gal", is a member of this board. but there is also : www.1stsubaruparts.com www.subarupartsforyou.com - a good place to find part numbers www.opposedforces.com/parts/ - another good part number place

do a search, there is a black diagnostic wire connector under the dash near the steering column. you need to ground out one of the pins to get it to flash. i forget which pin, some one will know. there are some good old post, with pictures, if you can find them.

look here if no one on the board has one for sale: http://www.car-part.com

how big is .0625 mm? will 5/16 hose stretch that much?? my guess is that you can try it and see faster than you can do the math. edit: it's about 1/400 of an inch, or 0.7 % of the 5/16 (hose less than 1%).

have you been on vacation? it has been 2 months!!

don't ever put "brake fluid" in a 90 nissan hydraulic clutch system, you will ruin it and have to replace the slave cylinder.

any chance his front tire pressures are low?? any chance it could be the "car wash" effect, the car seems to run better after you fill it up with gas and run it through the car wash?? sounds like you need to take a road trip, georgia is nice this time of year.

i thought the primary function was 'no start' if the clutch pedal was NOT push in.

i have a 97 GT with steering stiffer than my 97 obw. i wonder if the po used the wrong fluid. when you bled the old out, how did you do it? thanks, john

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/1713166223.html

you can probably swap the heads and intake from the phase 2 onto a phase 1 block, but the ej22 phase 2 intake is the same as ej25 intake of similar years, i think. so it is different than the ej22 phase 1 intake.

you still haven't said what year the engine is. you could have damaged the valves if it's a 97 - 01. check out the links in my signature below. \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/ \/

they don't go out often and i don't think it matters which one you use. probably not a turbo though.

there is a donut gasket with spring bolts just after the section with the cats and before the mid-pipe, look there.

year make and model. i think some seat belts have a lifetime warranty. call the dealer and ask.

that would certainly make it easier to mount, clearance wise.

the pics i have seen show 2 anti foulers used on the rear, the first one , threaded into the exhaust is left in tact, no changes. the second one , threaded into the first is drilled through completely. it appears as thought the tip of the o2 is longer than the anti-fouler so it extends part way into the first one. this setup puts the o2 sensor in its own small compartment with a very small opening into the exhaust . please correct me if i'm wrong.