johnceggleston

on a 97 OBW the o2 sensor are identical except for the wire connector, i think.

i'm not sure i'd go back to that shop, they did the timing belt and now you have engine noise and a coolant leak. i don't know what they charged for the work, but it was not worth it. and as probably mentioned above this is an interference engine if the water pump or idlers fail you are in for some serious money. find a shop that works on subarus and replace all related parts not just the belt.

buy the subaru part and take it to your glass shop, then help them install it. you learn, they provide labor only and your car has an oem part. it's a win win.

i remember something about "both fans running all the time" when the diagnostic plugs are connected. but this would only show that they both work. not what it takes to get them to come on. do not leave the diagnostic plugs connected. one of the fans is supposed to come on when the ac is turned on.

my son's 95 had an intermittent AT Temp lite and since he never wanted to hang around long enough to fix it we pulled the rear section of the drive shaft and he's still driving it like that 2 years later. knock on wood. before we pulled the shaft we put the FWD fuse in and that elimnated the problem SOME of the time, not always. that's why we pulled the drive shaft. i suspect heat may have played a part in the problem but i have nothing to really base that on. i did try a different TCU but that didn't help in our situation, so he's driving a FWD subaru until ....... having a tcu code 24 without torque bind seems very very odd to me if not impossible, but never say never. please don't take offense, but... are you sure you checked the tcu codes and not the abs codes? are you sure it is code 24? does the trans operate correctly in every way, shifting, torque converter lock up, downshifting, ect? this seems so odd to me that my first inclination is that some how you have some bad information. if you are sure of all of the above info my guess would be a bad connection or a bad TCU. it seems odd that either could throw a code and not cause torque bind but who knows? i might swap in a different TCU if you can get one extra cheap, or free, or borrow one from a friend and return it after you learn if it helps. since the AT Temp lite blinks at start up in the NEXT drive cycle, when you test the car for torque bind and find it is clean, turn it off and then re-start it, looking for the blinking lite. there is a possibility that your problem / duty c is intermittent and you just didn't notice the torque bind on the previous drive. i hope this helps. i'm afraid it is a little disorganized. let us know what you learn.

keep an eye out, it will still be for sale in a month or 2 and he may take lees then. i hope we didn't insult your intelligence by going off about piston slap. but we get questions here every day for things that have been diagnosed wrong by non-subaru drivers and mechanics. welcome to the board, or as some toyota fanatics might say, welcome to "the dark side". by the way, i'm no master mechanic, but 3 seconds of "noise" does not sound like rod knock to me.

the only other thing to consider in making this decision is how badly was it over heated? since it is your car assume you know, but i am fearful of "bad head gasket" cars because severely over heated engines can cook the bearings and shorten the life of the engine. but if it is your car and you know it's overheating history i wouldn't be overly concerned. his pricing does seem like the going rate, not a deal. you probably won't get more than $1000 for it as is. the only other option is to swap in a 95 - 98 2.2L engine. but the money may be close to the same. the outback with subaru head gaskets done correctly should last a long long time, 100k.

year model miles etc?

i don't know but probably ok. did you add fluid to the trans? sometimes the dip stick can be difficult to read.

too much oil can be a problem, but short term, i'd be more worried about not enough trans fluid. i don't know how much loss it takes to do damage but having lost reverse to "not enough fluid" over the course of an afternoon, pour in 4 qts and then check it.

which plug exactly did you drain? where exactly did you add the engine oil? what dipstick did you use to check the oil level? the engine oil filler and dipstick are up front near the radiator. the engine oil drain plug faces the passenger side of the oil pan. approach from the front of the car. it's the first one vou get to. the auto trans dip stick is driver side near the firewall under several hoses, AC hoses i think. the drain plug is driver side, of oil pan approach from the drivers door area. the owners manual says to check it with the car running and the fluid is hot, full operating temp. i would ignore that for now and check it without running the car any more. once you get the fluid in the neighborhood of the correct level then you can check it with the car running. the fluid level can be difficult to check and the dipstick hard to read. i'd bet you are 4.5 qts low on trans fluid. this condition will kill your trans. the front diff dip stick is passenger side near the firewall, down low, and very short. i've never seen a dip stick this short on a car before, but my car experience is limited. the drain plug is so hard to see with the car on the ground you will not bump into it unless you really really want to. good luck.

i installed a 96 that had been sitting for over a year and it took a while for it to quiet down, but it finally did. it made a racket but after i put it all back together i let it just sit and idle, it took a while.

if the 99 2.2 trans is not a phase 2 trans it will not swap. if the trans electrical connector matches it swap go. i can't remember when the 2.2 auto trans went to phase 2.

if the compression in #1 is also low it may be a slipped t-belt. but if it's good then i would guess burnt valve. if so, i would swap in another engine and drive another quarter million miles. assuming you like the car.

please elaborate. it may be rod knock, but if it goes away or lessens after warm up it could be piston slap. search piston slap and read up on it. i learned a lot about it when i bought a 97 OBW with "bad wrist pin, needs engine". that was 30k miles ago and i'm still driving it. check this: http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm what are the symptoms of your "rod knock"?

99 OBS is a phase 2 ej22. they only made them 99 - 01?. i think the intakes are different , or may be the head configuration, than phase 1. 99 was the last year for the ej22 in legos and 01? the last year in the impreza. no more ej22, not even in europe. go figure? i think you need another engine.

leave the green and black wire connectors alone. they are for diagnostic purposes and if you plug them in your car will run funny and throw lots of codes. there may have been a cd changer or "car phone" that was removed. the car phone left a total mess under the dash of my 97 GT (and under the passenger seat.) i removed it. they had these neat little spade type wire ends to plug into the fused side of the fuse panel. neat trick to power an add on, i just pulled them all out. the other thing that could add to the mess is the wireless door lock / alarm system. if the cel comes on when you turn on the key, test, but isn't on when driving the car you are ok. the proof will be in the driving / gas mileage. if it runs well and gets decent mileage you are good. check your fuses for the cig lighter. under the dash on the driver side. if they are all good there may be a loose connection on the back side of the unit, but that it rare, usually it's a fuse. some times the threads on the power steering lines get boogered when re-installing the engine. i'd look there first. you may be able to get it on correctly and tight enough to stop the leak. next, if is the rack, i'd try some Trans-x stop leak for power steering . the stuff works well on SOME trans seal issues and it has worked well on my wife's 97 avalon PS leak. (i replaced the rack and the pump still leaked, added trans-x and no more leak.) these racks are usually pretty hardy, leak free and don't fail often. if you need to replace it a used one is a pretty safe bet but 220$ sounds like a good price for new or re-man. some one on the board should have a used one or you can look here: http://www.car-part.com is this your first subaru? have you found the virgin switch yet? welcome aboard.

probably a good decision. if the car will nor move for 10 minuets until it warms up, it may be a trans problem, not an engine problem.

it could simply be torque bind in the transfer clutch. since the FWD fuse did not cure it that would be the first place to look. oor it could be both, the transfer clutch and mis-matched diffs. but you have the parts in the old trans to fix the transfer clutch. BUT, there is a process to check if your front and rear diffs match. i have written it up and posted it a couple of times. search for "diffcheck" and read up. found it under "diffcheck". http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109760&highlight=diffcheck WARNING: the process for checking if the diffs match is potentially dangerous, please be careful and take the proper safety precautions.

i sold some to grossgary for an h6 alt? / ac? belt tensioner. they may have used them in more than one place on the h6. i have some if you need them. let me know. 203-ff, bearing also NTN-6203LU, outside diameter: 40 mm inside diameter: 17 mm thickness: 12 mm sealed both sides http://www.ntnamerica.com/datasheet.asp?CO_PARTNOSEARCHTYPE=BEGINS&CO_PARTNO =6203&MANUFACTURER=NTN&BEARINGCATEGORY=RBSRD&CSEAL SHLD=Double-lip+contact+rubber+seal+one+side+(LU)&CL_PARTNO=62 03LU&

this is just a guess, but i don't think you have to do anything except plug any open vac lines on the 95. you also may have electrical connections hanging with no where to connect. keep the intake you have on the 95. is this right??? why are you not rebuilding the 96 5 spd? it's non-interference just like the 95. how many miles? how's it run? why not trade some one the the 95 egr, they are much more desirable and drop in to 96 - 99 outbacks, for a non egr, which less desirable. also if you swap in the 95 for the 96 you will need the exhaust y-pipe, they have different exhaust ports.

that's what i was thinking. so would this make it an interference engine?? the 95 heads would suggest not, but if the pistons are the culprit i would bet yes. i guess i better plan on interference just to be save.

i think you'll find that it will bolt in and work. subaru is a fairly small car company, they don't make changes too often. my guess is the trans housing are the exact same ones. the only real difference is the middle gears and i assume that this is based on the fact that the 99 is a ej22 and the 03 is a ej25. but it could be that they were going for more economy or less emissions.

where the lower radiator hose bolts onto the engine, same as all legacys. what's wrong with your 92 legacy??

i have a 95 ej22 (150k) with one cross threaded / busted head bolt. i have a line on a 97 ej22 (219k) w/ busted t-belt and bent valves. both are auto trans. this would only save re-working the heads but it would save. can i put the 95 heads on the 97 block with new head gaskets and go? is it worth it? i'd rather have the 95 in good condition, lower miles, non-interference, but that will cost ot have the head bolt removed and repaired. thanks, john