johnceggleston

i use these guys, if you do not see the kit you want, call them: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/theimportexperts/m.html?_nkw=subaru+timing+belt+legacy&_sacat=&_trksid=p3911.m270.l1313&_odkw=subaru+timing+belt&_osacat=0&bkBtn=

the success that subie drivers have had with transx is generally limited to the 99, maybe 00, auto trans. if it did not help your situation then your trans trouble is different than what the 99 auto trans have. i don't know enough about the inner workings to suggest what the trouble may be but if i were you i'd start saving for a used trans. how many miles?

spark? air? fuel? try spraying some ether or carb cleaner? into the intake when it trys to die. see if more fuel makes a difference.

ding! ding! ding! we have a winner. you are correct. bolt it in and drive away. remember to use the 2.5 flex plate if it is an auto trans.

pretty much it it a drop in and bolt up. one exception, if the ej22 does not have the same exhaust ports as the ej25 you will need to swap the exhaust y-pipe. 95 has matching exhaust ports, 96 - 98 do not. your ideal donor car for the swap is the 95 ej22 auto trans. regardless of which ej22 you choose you will need/want to do the following. use the ej25 flex plate if it is an auto trans. ( i don't know about manual trans, so check the fly wheels both before you put the engine back in.) unbolt the AC compressor but leave it connected to the AC lines, just flop it out of the way. the ej25 power steering lines work, but there is a mid-point support bracket that does not match the ej22 engine. most folks just let them hang without any problems. (if you happen to have the ej22 car the engine came from you can swap in the p/s line from it and it will be perfect. in order to avoid a CEL light and code, you want to use an ej22 with EGR. generally this means 95 -96 auto trans or almost any 97 - 98 ej22. (there are a very very few 97 - 98 ej22 that do not have egr.) 90 - 94 will bolt in and run just fine but you will have a cel and egr code. not good for emissions testing. and finally, if you have an auto trans, read up on seating the torque converter before you re-install the engine. click on the link in my signature below. what did i miss?

it's really hard to nail down weights. they tend to list them in ranges, like 97 legos, 3150? - 3500?, or something similar. and this covers the L thru outback models. when i checked, the imprezas were about 150 - 300 lbs lighter than the legos. but this is a very general guesstimate based only on my comparrison of listed weight 'ranges'. i was looking to see why they didn't offer the ej18 in the lego, was the weight the difference. 150 lbs isn't a lot of difference. the 93 2 door impreza is your best bet, but for a couple of hundred lbs you could have the lego. of course FWD is lighter than AWD, but who cares......

it sound like, from cougar's post, that the switch is after the blower on the ground side of the circuit. so if there is no power at the blower, there would be no power at the switch. side note: switching the ground on a residential electrical circuit is a big NO-NO. i keep forgetting that the rules are different for low voltage systems. you might start with the fuse and what wire color is there and then try and trace it. i don't have my haynes manual here.

there is a small hole in the t-stat with a wiggle plug in it. it is designed to let air flow through to avoid an air lock. it wiggles to break up air bubbles and avoid a blockage. assuming you are using a 'subaru' t-stat, as long as the long side goes up, into the water pump you'll be good.

i think this maybe the first time i've heard that one. good to know, look out for.

+1 on what he said, lots of thing leak on subaru engines but usually not the oil pan gasket.

the ring gear and pinion in your 94 lego auto are both 4.11, front and rear, not 3.9. there is no gearing in the transfer case, just the transfer clutch to send more or less power to the rear when needed. your cheapest solution is to swap in the FWD trans and leave in the rear diff unused. (you will likely have an AT Oil Temp light blinking at start up but it should drive ok.) when you have the time and money, fix or replace the front diff in the AWD trans and swap it back in. click here: 94 lego auto AWD front diff item item #3.

converting turbo to non turbo?? is this doable? or practical? i've never owned a turbo and have only a very basic understanding of one, but sometimes they seem to be problematic or high maintenance engines. and normally i would look for and but a non-turbo car, but if the deal was too good to pass up, could a conversion be done? would it save fuel? thanks, john

i'm surprised your heat shield is hitting the exhaust. my experience has been that when removing and replacing the heat shield it has a tendency to hit the drive shaft. but i guess it just depends on which way it has been flexed.

do you have power at the fan switch??

bump for tagline : badheadgaskets

it could be any of the things mentioned above but if you have this one i would not spend a lot of time checking the others. these engines have a history bad head gaskets. read this to better understand the problem: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104353&highlight=overheating+head+gasket*

try a bottle of techron first. my 95 sat for a year waiting for a new trans, and when we got it back on the road the gauge did not work, dead. a bottle of techron later it now works some, goes empty at about 12 gals used.

closed end wrench if you have it (7/8 inch will work), slip the wire connector through the wrench first. this will help avoid 'rounding it off'. not a big deal if you are replacing it, but if you can get it out without a headache that is all ways easier.

hydro-lock??

my guess is that something, belt or idler, broke when you heard the loud noise. if it is the belt, yes you can just replace it. if it is an idler, well now you need to replace it. for the cost of one idler and a belt from subaru, you can get a kit from "theimportexperts" on ebay, $125, i think. this is probably cheaper than a local kit. at this point all you will be saving not to do them all is the 30 min. it takes to bolt on some idlers.

yes, if they are both ABS. or if neither is ABS. maybe, if one is and one is not, it depends which has / needs ABS.

swap in a MPH speedo head and you should be good.

i used several layers of card stock, similar to the small boxes raisin come in. it you'd be surprised how many door hinges in homes today have a piece or 2 of hinge box behind them as a shim.

do you have power at the switch? did you id the fuse and check it?

JEBA was / is a one year transitional trans for the 99 outback. technically it is a phase 2 trans, but for some reason they had an odd code number for it. the following year the trans codes changed to the ones you are more familiar with... TZ1A4Z...... if the final drives match, and the electrical connectors match, then i would bet it works. the 99 outback trans was different from the 98 because it had more speed? sensors and therefore more wires in the connector. i'm not sure when forester went phase 2. i guess there is a small chance that the 99 obw had some of the phase 2 stuff but not all and that might give you headaches, but i don't know how you would ever know unless you tried it out. i do know that the 00 - 01 legacy and impreza auto trans are the same.