johnceggleston

i don't know why they changed the tensioner but there is a reason. maybe something as simple as distance of travel, or higher compression resistance, who knows. but it is not surprising to me that it has to be replaced at 105k, everything else has to be. and i'm not at all confident that just because an idler spins ok at 105k that it will continue to do so for another 105k. the only way to be sure is to replace them.

you need to make life simple. put the 2.5L in the outback. if it is done right you will not have to do it again and the 2.5 is more fun to drive, not a lot more but some. once the 97 obw limited is on the road, look for a 95 - 96 manual with a bad engine and do the swap. or put the 96 2.2 and ecu in a 97 - 98 outback and sell it in a state that does not check the ecu at inspection. northern VA has emissions checks but not the rest of the state. some one here from a no-emissions check area might be willing to broker the car sale for a small fee. or put the 2.2 / ecu in a 96 outback and swap the "limited" stuff from the 97 over. keep and drive the 96 , sell the 97.

SPECIAL NOTE: when jacking up the trans do not place the jack under the pan, it will dent and damage wires inside the trans. it does not take much of a dent to be a problem. move the jack forward and jack under the front diff.

how ever are they like RWD cars, to remove the cover do you have to remove the diff??????

i'd press the dealer for a fix. if fluid does it so much the better. they knew the car had torque bind when they sold it. they took advantage of you. complain, make them fix it. if they refuse, tell them you are calling the better business bureau. press for a transfer clutch rebuild, if they balk, tell them you'll take a trans flush. buying a car 'as is' from a dealer is different than buying one 'as is' from an individual. at the local car auction, some cars are "dealers only". the difference, in this state cars sold to dealers do not have to go through any safety inspection or certification process. the car could have absolutely no brakes and there could be no come backs. dealers price their cars high so if the buyers says i want the car, but i want new front brakes, there is still a profit. if you had asked for a trans flush before you signed the paperwork they would have done it to make the sale. ask, if he balks ask him if he wants you to be a repeat customer. the worst thing that can happen is they say NO.

i may be able to get one for a 96 lego, but the car is up in the hills covered in snow now and it may be a month or so before i get to it.

shipping maybe, but tax is in addition to the price of the part.

i'm in the oem camp. i looked at o2 pricing recently and studied bosch and denso from just one vender online. i do not remember which brand was more expensive but one, bosch i think, was more across the board than the other. they were both less than oem. but here is what i found interesting. both denso and bosch made a "regular" class o2 sensor and a "super" class o2. the regular class items were around 50$ - 65$ while the super class were 75 - 90$. this info is from memory so the prices are guestimates, but an 88$ super class o2 is only ~12$ less than oem. i assume that a subaru oem o2 is a super class sensor. any one have any idea what the difference is between regular and super class?

did you pay some one to do it last time? they may not have filled it all the way.

oem online is ~100$.

the head light bulbs are accessable from the back side, turn signals may be the same, i haven't done one yet. polishing the headlights to brighten them up is pretty easy and you do not have to remove them to do it. (the covers do not come off but the housing is removeable if you really want to do it, but not necessary.) you can search for 'polishing headlights' or restoring or the similar. auto parts store sell a kit with all you need ~$20.00, i think. the pieces parts can be had for less, but the kit has it all in one place for one price with instructions.

comparing this pic to your first it seems to be "more" seated than it was. does it look that way to you? you are there after all. what does the ruler say? now that you have done it once, try it again. being able to seat it every time you try should relieve some of your fears. i found it easy to do once i knew how far it had to go.

very hard to tell but i vote no. compare to these pics. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=TORQUECONVERTER

of course this is possible, and given the symptoms maybe even likely, but i have never read about it here, and more often than not, compression problems like mentioned above, especially when they are on the same cam, are timing belt related. bent valves?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=895308#post895308

this came up last month and i do not know the answer. i think you are correct since the rear sensor is primarily a monitor only, it just reports that the cat is there and working correctly. but that aside, there are now 13 threads with p0141 in it, all but one of them was posted in the cold 6 months of the year, most dec - mar. there is a chance that this could be an electrical connection corrosion problem. maybe due to salt on the roads. especially considering it is reported as a "circuit malfunction". i'd check that first. any chance you live in the snow / salt belt?

awd / tcu info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=905699&postcount=9

IIRC 90 - 95 ej22 is dual port 96 - 99 ej22 is single port 96 - 99 ej25 is dual port your engine is probably a 97 or 98 swap, or at least a head swap.

rear extension housing w/ transfer clutch and duty c solenoid duty c

uh ...... swap them back? are the part numbers the same on the units? did you swap the ECUs?

i've never done one, but i remember reading something about an arm? bolt that is a real bolt breaking bear to remove due to rust?. so the general consensus was to leave the arm? on the knuckle and disconnect the other end of the arm from the frame? anyway, some one should know for sure. good luck. edit: maybe not in florida.

the speedo gears are plastic and in no way will they effect the way the trans works or damage it. you just will not know how fast you are going. and with out the front speed sensor, there is a good chance you will not have AWD.

i used to do remove the lower control arm but now i prefer removing the top strut bolt and loosening the lower one. you can use a cold chisel to mark the bolt head and the lip on the strut bracket so you put back the same way it was before you started. this is way easier than messing with the stuff below the knuckle. i don't know if they still do, but i remember hearing that mwe would give a price break to board members. free shipping or no core or something like that. worth asking about. re-booting a used axle ends up costing me more than 50$, next time i need one i'm call mwe and see what the final cost is after it is all done. napa re-man ~95$, i think.

i routed mine down behind the side trim piece (pretty easy), under the floor piece on the left side of the cargo area (easy) and leave it in the spare tire compartment. when i need it i feed it out the hatch, flat, with no problems. this keeps it out of the weather 351 days a year. are you going to use a tow dolly or a tow bar? have you picked out a name yet? ps: i hope Blu is terribly unhappy with his little brother, gets jealous and sits in the driveway pouting and weeping oil. so much so you have to sell me this little justy just to make Blu happy. i am envious.

the 98 GT has the same final drive ratio as the 96 - 99 GT auto trans and the outback 96 - 99 auto trans.