johnceggleston

i have driven 2 98 outbacks with heated cloth seats. outback limited came with leather, but the cold weather package, heated seats and wiper glass area, did not include leather. but lots of folks who ordered ''cold weather'' might also order leather. so look for outbacks non-limited.

i missed this part. so probably not wheel bearings. yes the rear drive train parts do still turn, but not under load. that makes a huge difference. i have a front axle that clicks. but only under load when turning. when driving straight, even under load, no clicking. when turning with no load, no clicking.

this sounds like some one has altered the t-stat to hide the over heat issue. who did you buy it from.? a little surprising it has lasted this long. that sounds about right. you are now at the point where you will have to top off the coolant fairly regularly, or stop driving it. if the cooling system gets an ''air lock'' the coolant will not flow. this will cause it to over heat. it could be really low on coolant, or an air lock keeping from flowing. refilling it correctly and burping it should / could keep you rolling with heat. but as the gasket leak gets worse, it will be harder to keep up with it. when the heater has no heat, the coolant is not flowing. you probably need coolant. if altered?, the t-stat should allow the coolant to flow until it gets really low. check the coolant. the other possible issue that should be checked is a leak point. either dripping coolant or not sucking it back into the rad from the overflow bottle. both will cause coolant loss and over heating. a bad cap or a small leak ....??????? PS: there is no kind of ''stop leak'' or ''gasket seal'' that will help. do not try. you could just end up messing up your rad.

have some one drive your car while you sit in the back and listen for the noide. which side is the loudest? it is probably the wheel bearing on that side. i have a slight wobble in my steering wheel, but i think mine is brakes. i replaced a warped rotor several years ago and it went away. but now it is back. so the caliper slide pins must part of the problem. and it is so minor, i live with it, no biggie.

actually there may be one difference, no EGR. not all 95 - 98 ej22s had it , but if yours does, you will need it. and if you are planning on installing it in an ej25 car, you will need it. but bratman is right, it is WAY WAY WAY too expensive. one reason the ej22 is so popular is because they are reliable, durable, and will take a lot of abuse. so used engines from the us are a very safe bet and available. look here: www.car-part.com sort by zip code to see what is close.

on the edge of the bell housing between the guide pin and the engine stand bolt. 96 - 98 ej22 SOHC. with single port exhaust.

alt and steering issues???? is the belt still there?

take your VIN, ID and proof of ownership to the dealer and ask if they can make you a key. mine cost me $6, works great.

PS: you will also need the 95 exhaust y-pipe. the 95 has dual port heads and rthge 98 has single port heads. you can use ANY dual port y-pipe 90 - 99, they are all the same . and can be found on legacy ej22 cars 92 - 95 impreza ej22 cars 95 only impreza ej18 cars 93 - 97 legacy, forester and impreza? ej25 cars 96 - 99. the ej22 cars 96 - 99 are single port just like your 98. those will not work. good luck.

put the 98 intake manifold on the 95 block and heads and you are done . install it, plug it in and drive away. the only differences are on the intake manifold. unplug it and unbolt it from the 98 and put it on the 95, install the 95 in the 98 car and DRIVE AWAY. any questions? it does not get much easier than this.

absolutely correct. it is the perfect 4WD subaru in the snow. but only in the snow.

this is a wiring issue, at least it was before you replaced the temp sensor. recheck your work, check the wires and connectors for both the temp sensor and the fan. check the ground wires for the fan on the frame rails next to the radiator.

CUT. ok, that was good, but let's do it again, only this time fill the ditch with snow. ready, ACTION!!!

a bit late, but i got a response from lockmedic, see below. hth

the trans holds abot 10 qts. of fliud. doing a drain and fill removes about 3.5 qts. so doing it 3 times is WAY WAY better than doing it only once. but each time you drain you are removing some of the new fluid, so the more times you do it the less old fluid you remove. do it 3 times now, and then at least once a year after that. twice a year would be better.

no, there is no way to trick the ECU. folks have been searching for this since the first ej22 was swapped into an ej25 car that had bad head gaskets back in the 90s. but unless you are installing into a car with an auto trans it isn't an issue. just use a 95 harness from a manual trans car. ECU is happy with EGR or no EGR. best source is to download the FSMs for both years and find the pinout for each ECU. finding the FSM is pretty easy, finding the pinout for ECU is more work, but doable. FSM source: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/second-gen-factory-service-manuals-literature-186552.html

typically, the ECU must match the wiring in the car. but if you are swapping engine, ECU and harness, this less of an issue. my experience begins in 95 and is fairly simple minded. the pinout changed fairly much between 95 and 96. i do not know if it changed enough to keep the engine from running. 96 - 97 ECUs (and harness) are the same. 98 - 99 ECUs (and harness) are the same. but all 4 years will swap and run the engine. you will just get ghost trouble codes for the ECU harness mis-match. example: 97 ECU will run a 98 just fine but you will get a trouble code for EVAP FLOW since they moved the charcoal canister to the rear of the car. i'm not sure about how this will relate to your ''retrofit'' into another car. pre 95 is OBD1, ''On Board Diagnostics 1", you can read trouble codes by connecting wires under the dash, or something like that. the joy here is you can read codes anytime, any where, if you know how. 95 and after is OBD2. OBD2 requires a code reader, and i suspect gives a little more, a very little more, info. so if you get a code reader it is easier, in my opinion. but if you are on the road with no reader, you are stuck. of course almost all parts stores will read codes for free. i'm not too sure how they will react when you ask them to read the codes in a 67 VW ??? so the best advice is to buy an ECU with a matching chassis harness, same year. intake harness and sensors should match the ECU year as well. fewer headaches. which year is less important. by the way, there is no EGR on 90 - 94 ej22 engines. in general, these years have less / fewer emissions crap. so if you are worried about that, stick with those years. the 93 - -95 ej18, imprezas, did have EGR, auto and manual trans i think. hth.

if the key will not turn, try spraying some silicone lube in the lock. make sure you are using the right key? call a locksmith, he can probably get in quicker with no key. '' lockmedic'' could probably help.

sloppy drive shaft or carrier bearing (center support)? my first guess, but maybe not the most likely. grab it, pull, push, wiggle it and see . bad rear axle? easy to see, just wiggle it. bad rear bearing? this might be more likely, (cyclic thumping or humming, maybe more when turning at speed.) have someone ride in the back seat and listen on each side to see which is louder. jack up the wheel, rotate it by hand, listen and feel the spring for noise or vibration. do the other side.

it may be easier to swap the torque converter. the engine does not care which TC it attached, the trans does. but they should all swap if needed. the 90 leog uses the smaller TC. i don't know what the larger one, outback?, would do to shifting and driving? nothing probably, but i don't know enough about it. but i do know folks have swapped outback auto trans (and rear diff) into a lego L with no ill effects. so the TC can't be that big of a deal. all of this headache is why i do not like JDM parts.

the marks on the belt are not timing marks. they are only there to AID in the installation. the timing marks are on the rear of the crank sprocket and the front of the cam sprockets. good luck.

the timing is off. check out this link: > Timing Belt Pictures <

i agree with the above posts, a bottle of trans-x will likely correct this enough so it is not a concern. but worst case senario, you have to buy and install a used trans, ~$1000 - $1500 installed. even if you add that to the purchase price, you still have an affordable car. it does increase the ''cost'' of the car, but if you own and drive the car for 35k miles, it will only cost you 10 cents a mile. and it is very very very likely you will be able to do this. more likely is you will drive the repaired car over 105k miles. this will reduce your cost per mile to 3.33 cents per mile. this is a no brainer , imho. good luck.

the leak was likely the o-ring in between the reservoir and the pump itself. i would buy a used one , replace the o-ring mentioned, and go from there Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market sort by zip code to see what is close. then soet by price to see if there is a bargain you can have shipped in.

you are very welcome. and what makes you think i'm in disguise?? this is how i always look. goood luck.