johnceggleston

i wouldn't. it's on the driver side of the exhaust pipe slightly to the rear of the back of the trans (auto). you need a 7/8" (22)? mm closed end wrench. spray the sensor with some pb blaster before you start. most folks say to run the car to warm up the pipe, do not over do it or you may burn yourself. disconnect the wire connector lead going the to sensor on or near the rear of the trans (auto). slip the wire through the closed end wrench and slide down on to the sensor hex . unscrew it. make sure to go in the correct direction, lefty loosey. remove the sensor. i use hi-temp anti seize on mine, thread it in and tighten it. re-connect the wire. if your CEL is on when you start this you can disconnect the neg. battery cable first and when you finish reconnect it . your CEL should be gone. good luck.

the AWD system needs the circumference of the tires to be within 1/4 inch of each other. so it would be best if you buy 4 tires. fronts not matching the rears will wear on the AWD unit , the trans, and other drive line parts and lead to "torque bind". bank 1 sensor 2 is the rear, after the cats, o2 sensor. there have been a couple of posts recently regarding this thread. if you are interested search the code . the rear o2 sensor can be a generic brand (the front needs to be a subaru part). but i would check the connectors first, that doesn't cost anything. have you had code reset? has it come back? read this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=902299#post902299 welcome to the wonderful world of subaru and the usmb.

some where around the middle of the calendar year subaru switches ove and starts manufacturing the next model year. one example of this is the 95 auto trans, one model until 6/95 and another after 6/95. i don't know if they used the same date every year. but the bean counters know how many cars they are going to make and they know they are going to need so many 95 parts, engines and trans. and they know they are going to start using 96 parts at some point. so they should be able to predict the exact date in advance..

if it is not on the door post between the driver and rear doors, it could be on the bottom of the driver door. they moved the location at some point between 95 (door post) and 97 (door bottom).

if you search p0420 and read all the threads you will learn that there 2 schools of thought for correcting this code. 1 a new "subaru only" front o2 sensor. 2 new cats what ever the cure, it is probably causing poor gas mileage and emissions that are not to spec and maybe? aging your cats. depending on the size of your wallet, where you live inspection wise and and your concern for the environment you can live with this a good while. but a new o2 will not break the bank and has a good chance of correcting the problem.

if you have the time to wait on shipping, post a wanted ad in the classifieds here. i'm sure there are plenty of them available from members. i'm pretty sure 90 - 99 ej22 and ej25 are the same, probably up thru 2010 as well.

i don't really know, but i'd start by looking for a loose connection. a connector working loose over time would explain a lot of ills.

but depending on where the car is, it is possible that the connector has been dragging in the snow for a while. i'd still look for a wiring problem before i bought a replacement. i searched p0141 and found 10 threads. one actually included the p0325 code and the same symptoms as this one. i read most of them and they pretty much follow what has been said above. but no solution feed back one way or the other as to wiring or o2 sensor.

buy some kind of a manual, even a haynes manul will tell you to install the torque converter in the trans, not mounted to the engine. then read the thread below. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=torqueconverter then come back and ask 'how to' regarding the details.

so, are you saying none of the fake crap?

the rear o2 sensor can be generic. i've never read here about a rear o2 sensor code and one being bad. is there a chance it is a wiring problem?

high pitched whine? alt belt/pulley bearing? although the radio not working is weird. but i think the clock and the radio come off different feeds, clock is always on radio only when car is on. but i agree, it sounds like the alt to me. just for grins, try the radio with everything else off.

95 yes, but i thought 96 brought the real outback with a step roof, 2.5L engine (except with the manual trans) and taller struts / tires.

i'm not familiar with the smog process so i can't comment. but, IMO, a 95 w/ 188k miles for 1900$ should not need a water pump or a timing belt. they will cost you 600$ unless you do them your self. the rest of the car better be perfect.

last time i looked, you could get subaru wires online for 40$ - 45$ plus shipping. are the magnecor better than stock?

i think with compressed air, and fluid under high pressure you can get it clean. and he did say clean sand. there are lots of repairs that are done in a shop that are not as perfect as the factory setting and work just fine for thousands of miles. every thing from head gaskets to paint jobs. and there are lots of things done on a car that are not in the repair manual. it does not mean they will not work. but you suit your self. i've learned a lot while reading posts on this board and just because i have not actually done everything i have read about does not mean it is wrong.

the same way you know you have successfully flushed the brakes lines after 150k miles, the fluid comes out clean.

or possibly tightening the nut on the stud.

you do not leave the sand in the brake line. you just use it as tool to bend the line without kinking it. then you remove the sand, clean the line and install it on the car.

this guy has one he doesn't need, i bet he'd sell it for 30$ plus shipping. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=899765&postcount=11

in the 90s the speedo take off in manual trans is different than the front diff take off in auto trans. i ASSUME that it is all mechanically driven, no fluid power unless there is a provision for "lack of lube" which then let it cut itself off. but i can't imagine that being the case. some one posted a pretty good pic last year. found pic: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=883922&postcount=14 whole thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106822&highlight=speedo*

yes, a bad duty c will usually give you a blinking light/trouble code. try the fuse, any size will do, in the FWD holder under the hood, passenger side near the fire wall. you can drive with this in while figuring out cause and solution. unless it is snowing, then leave it out and try not to make a lot of tight turns. the fuse makes it front wheel drive. when was the last time the fluid was changed? how many miles ago? how many miles on the car now?

the problem fixed in 97 1/2 is just one possible cause of TB. it could be dirty fliud / gummed up valve. or bad duty c or bad clutch discs do you have a blinking "AT Temp" light at start up? if you are going to continue driving it put in the FWD fuse under the hood. this may eliminate the problem and buy you some time. if problem goes away when you put in the fuse then the duty c is probably good. change the fluid, it can't hurt and may help. this is a 1000$ fix at the dealer.

check the wiring connectors at the speed sensor and the back of the speedo. on a 97 there are 2 wires that go directly from the sensor to the speedo. your year may be different.

from : https://www.chaplinssubarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html item Number...... MSRP ..........Core.......... Price Price 22611AD001..... $549.07 .......$0.00 ........$468.91 Electrical - Ignition system - Ecm - 2.5 liter All 1997