johnceggleston

axle boots. look for black stuff on the exhaust.

do a search. some one recently, last few weeks, had a thread with good detail about testing an o2 sensor. what i remember is the voltage on the sensor signal wires was low, real low and fluctuated between or within 2 values as it read the exhaust? if any one remembers who posted it or a key search phrase that would help. do a search.

om the 96 - 99 2.5L engine, there is a higher than normal low mileage failure rate. all of the these engine were assembled new, new blocks, new heads new gaskets, at the factory. it does not get ant flatter then that, and the gaskets failed. subaru has solved the problem by re-designing the gasket. use a subaru gasket. on 2.2L engines, ... i don't know, maybe not.

remove the belt and drive around the block. take the alternator, tools and jumper cables with you just in case.

the part om line is about 100$, retail (msrp) ~140$, at the dealer who knows??? the time is only about 1/2 hour max. do it yourself and save. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Engine+Parts%2C+Sensor+O2&year=1997 part number 97 front o2 sensor = 22690AA290 https://www.chaplinssubarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html oxygen sensor, legacy, front 96-99 $139.95 $102.44 Order By Description. Electrical - Powertrain control - Automatic transmission - Oxygen sensor oxygen sensor, legacy, rear 96-98 $139.95 $102.44 Order By Description. Electrical - Powertrain control - Automatic transmission - Oxygen sensor

awd or fwd? manual? mpg?

honestly, i don't know. but i do know i have never read a thread here where there was piston, block, rod or crank bearing or actual head damage due to a broken timing belt. just bent valves. and as long as the timing belt is installed properly you will not cause any more damage. and there was/is a thread just this week saying that sohc engines some times get lucky and do not always bend valves. that is why we say hang the belt and see. worst case you have to do a head gasket / valve job, but not all valves will be bent.

is that the vacuum line that attaches to the bottom, about the middle, of the air intake half way between the filter box and the throttle body. you know, the one that slips off when you check your air filter and it makes it so the car will not idle, wants to die, until you reattach it. the other end goes to ..... anyone.

it will probably still be too tight to just pull the tensioner pulley. i / most? leave the lower left idler / pulley for last. install it last and then pull the pin on the tensioner.

we need to know more about your 96 in order to help you. engine, trans, miles what makes you think you need a new rear diff.? they don't fail often. maybe it is "torque bind". locking is a viscous limited slip differential, vlsd. when one wheel spins the other wheel still pulls. non-locking is an open diff. when one wheel spins the other wheel just sits there.

since you are new i figure you didn't know it is considered rude to hijack some one's thread. you can start a hew one. the new thred button is visible near the top of the page with the listing of the posts. not visible when reading a post. but i have already started on for you. welcome aboard.

fiddilin jay New User Join Date: Jan 2010 City: Garner Posts: 1 1996 Outback differential Hey Subaru enthusiasts - a couple of questions regarding rear differentials. Are any later Outback rear differentials, 2000 and beyond, interchangeable with my 96? Also, what is locking verses non-locking. Will have to replace mine soon.

low brake fluid. if you wait a while, maybe a long while it will be on all the time. but for now just when cold. as soon as the fluid warms up and expands?, it goes off. your level now is right at the edge of light on light off.

i always forget to state my year and model. on one of my cars maybe both, 95 lego or 97 gt, when i had the exhaust off, i compared the front and rear. both were had 3 wires, both had the denso name on them and both had the same number stamped on them. only the connectors were different. 00 obw is the phase 2 SOHC, maybe they changed the spec.

have you done the repair yet? you might try to 'snug' up the bolts first. it probably will not work but you never know. the flat four engine design doesn't help, i would think the oil doesn't 'drain down' as easily or quickly as a straight or 'v' design.

good thinking on doing it anyway. there is a very recent post , last 2-3 days, on this very subject. 2.2 or 2.5 does not matter, they are the same. search for " tune up* " (exactly) or look at the bottom of 'this' page for 'similar threads. if you can't find what you are looking for give a shout out. after you find what you are looking for and have more questions, give a shout out. and welcome to the real world of subaru. how much did you pay? i'm jealous. welcome!!

i don't know much about the cooling system design, but there do seem to be a fair number of 90 - 99 2.2s for sale with overheating and / or head gasket problems on craigslist. if a flush would fix them, what a deal. one of the posts in the above linked thread mentioned one cause as the horozontal design and the coolant not "draining back down" and always being in contact with the gasket.... well if it is a sealed system the coolant never 'drains back down', the engine design does not matter. you really have to take what you read on the internet with a grain of salt.

what car / year?

along the same line, i have read some talk about 'cometic' head gaskets. because they are not subaru i assume they are not acceptable for the 2.5L. how good is cometic?

so they did n't test #4, driver side rear. my guess is the #2 is normal, driver side front. and then both passenger sides were 'not right'. sounds like a jumped belt to me. but this does not explain why one cylinder with high compression. how high is "high"?

would i let you damage your engine?? read up on the proper timing marks, hang the belt and see how it runs.

only time will tell. do you still have the old one? iit would be interesting to try it again.

and i bet the one they didn't test was #4, the hard one. and then only because it had no code.

i have a 97 obw that has the entry unit but i have never had a remote for it. my wifes company car remote set mine off so often i cut out the alarm horn. thankfully sher has a different job and that car/remote is gone. but it still gets set off occasionally by some one else's remote. did it happen in the same place both times.? it could be a co-worker. programming a different remote should help. the unit learns the remotes code.?

bent valves, replace the bad ones. have the head checked for flatness. don't force the cams. all 4 pistons need to be at the half way point to clear. hang a belt on it and see how it runs. BE SURE to read up on the correct timing marks before you do it. lots of subaru first timers get it wrong. links below.