johnceggleston

TZ102ZA5AA this is not the original trans for the car, this is an impreza trans. it should have a 4.11 final drive ratio. a 96 legacy trans is TZ102ZABAA. you can use any auto trans from 95 - 98 legacy that starts with TZ102Z... and ends with 4 LETTERS, no numbers. these are legacy trans. you can also use an impreza trans but i don't know them as well so i don't really know which have the 4.11 final drive, but most will be similar to the code you currently have ending in ...ZAxyy where the x is a number (3,4,5) and the y's are letters (A,B, maybe C). but you need to double check rthe final drive ratio. you cannot use a trans that has a '2' after the second 'Z', this is a trans for a 2.5L car and they have a different final drive ratio. TZ1A2ZJeAA, this is a completely different trans, it appears to come from a 99 or 00 legacy, or GT maybe. i do not know the final drive ratio, but the TZ1A2Z.... is a phase 2 trans . they have more speed sensors, a different wiring harness and connector and a screw on fluid filter. (if the trans code were TZ1A2ZJEBA it would be from a 99 OBW. i didn't know they made a ...ZJEAA. AA usually means legacy and ...BA usually means outback. 99 was a transitional year and an odd duck.)

fuel gauges tend to go south, thechron fuel additive may help.

i assume you have a limited amount of this stuff so i'd go with the complete fluid change and make sure 1 qt of the new fluid is the t-x. this will/should give you the longest 'life' of the trans-x. you will not have to change atf again for 60 - 90k miles (100k - 150k km?). if you have any extra, save it until you need it. if i were doing it here i'd just drain and add the t-x on the re-fill. if the fluid wasn't the best i could do it again next week what's another qt of t-x.

i'm on here a lot and i don't remember any discussions about front vs. rear cat. most 420 threads focus on front vs. rear o2 sensor. there is a thread with the anti fouler fix which will eliminate, a lot of the time, the p0420 code regardless of the condition of the cats. i know this isn't what you asked for but i thought you might find it interesting. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=107476&highlight=anti*

the subie owner who cried leak... i'd park on the cardboard for a few days or a week before i cried leak. that being said, that location would be the oil separater plate on the rear of the engine behind the flywheel/flexplate. (you have to pull the engine to fix it.) or maybe the cam cap o-ring, but again, wait until it leaks before you .... if there isn't a drip on the cardboard or you do not have to add oil then there is no leak, at least not one big enough to justfy pulling the engine.

search "torqueconverter" in my threads and read "how to seat your torque converter". it is not hard to do correctly if you know it needs to be done. most folks think they are done when in fact there is one more step. not a hard step, just an unknown step.

legos never had a ej18, impreza only. and i think 190 was the first year for legacy in the US. there is a 1.8L engine from the 80s, ea81 and ea82, but they have a different design. they are not in the ej series. but if is an EJ18, then it is non-interference. it also used the same heads, timing belt, timing idlers, head gaskets, intake, etc. as the early (90-96) ej22. so lots of parts floating around.

i find it really odd that 3 universals failed just when you put on your winter wheels. are you sure it is the universal joints? not the center carrier bearing? it doesn't matter much, you still need to replace, but ... just wondering. could driving over snow drifts or plowed snow mounds damage universals?

no, you do not need to swap anything as long as they are both 2.5 auto trans. just drop it in.

www.car-part.com sort by distance.

i don't think the early legos had a separate lock switch. up through 95 (96?) the driver door lock tab activated all of the doors. unlocking with a key unlocked all the doors.

year make model and miles would help, but yes, a bad alt will light up the dash.

if it fits, it ships!!!

i to believe that the 2.2 non-interference is the most desireble engine. but the fact of the matter is, any 2.2 WITH PROPER MAINTENENCE is a great engine. it is only when the t-belt is not done on time or off brand low quality parts are used that bent valves come into play. which leads to this, when purchasing any used car without absolute proof of the t-belt change date/mileage you should do it sooner rather than later to avoid valve damage. and as others are quick to point out, the 2.5 is good too, when service correctly.

buy an o-ring for the pump!!!

ej22s 90 - 96 are non-interference. all ej18s are non-interference. none of the 2.5s are.

those two are not the critical parts. i wouldn't worry, you'll be fine.

this sound like it is coming from behind the oil pump. the pump bolts on the the block so it is in front of the pan?? part of the pump hangs down???

seems like a pretty good deal to me if it runs ok, doesn't leak, (except the rack), no CELs and the dent in the rear isn't too bad. the leak may not in be the "rack", they don't fail often. there is a chance it is the power steering fluid lines going to the rack. they have been known to get screwed up when doing an engine swap. i'd try and get it for 1000$, but given what he said about the used rack, it sounds like he knows his stuff and may not deal. if he will not move on the price, ask him to have it inspected. or you test drive it and have it inspected. (a cheap price to pay to see if it has major problems.) i sold a car recently for my father-in-law. the would be buyer had the oil changed so he could ask the mechanic questions about the rest of the car. and he did buy it.

i don't really know so i could be very wrong, but a qt in 700 miles would almost have to be a hole in the pan. i don't think a pan gasket could leak that much. my vote is on the oil pump o-ring, or back plate screws or crank seal. how long did the engine sit in between 'pushing' the 97 and installed in the 98?? is there any chance the crank shaft got 'nicked' during the r&r of the seal? could the seal have been damaged? oem seal? Edit: i had the t-belt done in a 95 lego w/ 165k miles. i specifically requested all front seals be replaced. i do not remember if i requested valve covers done and i know i didn't request oil pump o-ring or screws. i didn't know to ask about them. so the short story is that the damn thing leaked badly after the work was done.

if you do not have a big stain in your drive way, the drain plug is not leaking too bad. i have the drain plug crush washers if you need some, 10 shipped to you for $6.50. larger quantities available. let me know.

according to http://www.cars101.com abs was available in 93 only on the impreza LS model.

rack or pump leak?? try some trans-x power steering stop leak first. you have nothing to loose, it can't hurt, you plan on replacing the rack anyway and it is cheap. this is the same company whose transmission fix in a botle works on the 99 auto trans with delayed engagement of gears. it worked great on my wife's 97 toyota avalon steering pump. i replaced the rack only to discover that the pump was leaking as well. the leak went from refill monthly to almost nothing.

all of the ejs i have seen here in the US have a vin # etched in the block on the passenger side mid point where it meets the trans. that should id them. quote> Anyway, I have been working with a few Nippon engines. All EJ 20's and all different. What I'd like to know is how to find out a bit more about each engine. Running serial #'s and the like. <quote if you do not have an id or serial number how are you expecting to look them up?

dealers are going to be your best source for what year is a particular engine. this assumes that they have a cross reference list. i would look here: http://opposedforces.com/parts you will have to start with a year and move on to the car and then engine, but it shouldn't take long to figure out as long as a ej20b comes after a ej20a or what ever the numbers are.