johnceggleston

the speedo gears are mounted on the front diff carrier assembly and turn the same as the front passenger side axle. i have heard that the speedo ring gear can be swapped from the out side without cracking the case. i would go to the guy you got the trans from and get some money back for the cost of the diff or maybe he has the actual one that was with the trans for free. he helped get you in this mess.

the GT TZ102Z2AAA has a 4.44 final drive and the legacy TZ102ZAAAA has a 4.11 final drive ratio. you need the matching rear diff. where did you get the trans? otherwise it will work just fine. don't worry about the TCU. what was wrong with the original trans?

it is unlikely that you you have one, they were not common in the late 90s. but they were standard in 03, so just get one from an 03 outback / GT manual car and bolt it in. some models had them standard in 01.

of course, right next to the remote and the eggs.

first let me say that i only have knowledge of 95 - 99 U.S. made outbacks and legacys. the basic trans shown in your attachments are the same, this is indicated by the first 6 letters/numbers TZ1A4Z.... if this trans were in an american car it would be referred to here as a phase 2 4eat. we first saw this number in a 99 outback. prior to that out trans were TZ102Z.... this was a phase 1 trans. typically the next letter/number in the code refers to the final drive ratio. again, in the US, the outback would be a 4.44:1 and my guess is the other refers to a legacy ratio of 4.11:1. BUT we do not have any 2.0L legacys in the US, 90 - 99 so this is a guess. the last 2 letter/numbers refer to the model of car the trans is in. "BA", here, usually means outback and "AA" means legacy. the 3rd to last letter/number simply refers to which year in the series this trans is/was. in other words, A came before B and C came after. both of yours are "A" so they are both a first in their series. this really does not relate to your situation. IN MY OPINION: the trans will work, but the final drive will be off, so you would need the rear differential as well. we do this here a lot, mostly because of price and availability, i think. you have the trans already or it is only 200$ and the one with the correct final drive ratio is 800$. if you go this route, your speedo may be off. the gears the operat the speedo are matched to the stock tire size. but this is usually a small error and the owners do not mind. i don't think any dealer will agree with me because they go by the book. so do the used parts sellers here. but enough of us have done these to know what will work here in the us. you should be able to compare the fron diff part numbers, with some research, on the site: http://opposedforces.com/parts/ good luck.

those two will work, but i doubt it is the trans. it sounds like an axle. if it is the trans i wouldn't bother with the TCU, it won't matter. if you find a cheap one from an outback get the matching rear diff. all of the actual trans are the same. the diffs vary and the speedo gears match the stock tires but the trans and the rear extension housing / transfer clutch are the same. thinking about it more, it may be the front diff. the "park lock" is attached to the rump roast end of the pinion shaft. if it is not holding it is either 2 busted axles or something to do with the diff or pinion shaft. i think. good luck. on the one hand the boy gets credit for getting it home, on the other hand, if the car is screaming i would prefer that they just quit driving it. it can't get any worse just sitting.

under the carpet on the passenger side near the fire wall.

so if your front o2 and cat converter are working properly, as well as the rest of the engine, the rear o2 isn't needed. they added it to make sure the cats were working, or hadn't been removed.

this thread reminds me of how i used to identify which electrical circuit each receptacle was on. just short it out at the receptacle and then go look for which one popped. not the safest or most high tech approach. but really, why not just remove it??

typically they go from the wheel well into / under the rear seat and then run along the floor of the car at the driver side door jambs. lift he rear seat and you will likely find the leak. sedan or wagon, wagon is easier but neither is very hard. if you have to remove the rocker panels, bottom plastic pieces on door jambs, be careful not to break / snap any of the unseen tabs on the under side that hold them down.

any idea why??

never heard of this before, i assume you mean there are 2 antenna connections under/inside the dash. there is a possibility that one is for a cell phone mounting unit, or one for a front antenna and one for a rear antenna or ...... try one, if it works you're good, if not try the other.

i don't know where you are, but ....... http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/1521466508.html

from one first timer to another, did you figure this one out before or after you had the engine lined up with the trans for re-installation????

outbacks have wiring connectors behind the driver side tail light (behind a 4" access panel), if you buy the correct "hitch wiring harness" it is a simple plug in, no cutting or splicing required.

i disagree, the difference is 0.55 inches in diameter, over 1/2 inch, that's more than 1/4 inch in radius. in my opinion, that is a lot. they may well fit, and if you have the tires for free, it may not cost too much to try them. maybe mount one and try it for a day on both the front and rear before you do all 4. i know that an odd size tire is a no-no, but for a few miles it shouldn't kill anything. (put in the fuse if it is an auto trans.) for a normal car owner, risking the price of the tires, 300$ - 400$ and the price of mounting them, 40$ - 80$ for just a 1/4 inch of lift is not practical. you could spend close to 500$ and be stuck with tires that rub. the tire shop won't take them back after you've driven on them.

so what is the long term effect of a working injector and a non firing plug???

offer him 7500$ or 8000$ and when he says no, walk away. i garrantee he will call you back. he wants to sell the car and if he is letting people drive it for the weekend it's not going to sell out from under you on the same day. you can always go back and offer full asking price. i doubt seriously he has 8k invested in it.

brushes are in the motor itself and are used to condut eletricity? to the armature, the rotating part of the motor. this not the usual fail point of subaru starters. the contacts are in the solenoid and they conduct the electricity that casuses the starter motor gear to engage the flywheel and completes the connection for the starter motor. they are a fairly common fail point. search for starter contacts or the like and you will find plenty to read. the solenoid is mounted on the starter and this is a pretty easy fix i'm told. the hard part is removing the starter. not really hard, but there are hoses in the way and the lower bolt/nut is hard to reach, especially from above. oh yeah, the socket sizes are different for the top and bottom, one is a 17 i think. call the parts stores again and ask for starter solenoid contacts, you may have better luck.

http://www.car-part.com i don't know for sure what they call them, door cards maybe, but look there. i would think they'd be pretty cheap. sort your search by distance. probably 00-04 will work.

and with any luck we'll get to see some pics as she grows up, goes away to school, gets married, and maybe even has kids. can't wait.

i don't know for sure, but i doubt that they make a 2" hitch for a subaru. they might, but i can't imagine .... but you can get a standard 1 & 1/4 inch and then add a 2" adapter.

bad speedos are a fairly common problem for the 99 year, outbacks anyway. in most other years i would guess the speed sensor end of things, but for a 99 it's probably the speedo. do a search and you should find several threads on this. you can use a speedo out of any 96 - 98 (99) outback, at least. maybe 00- beyond.

the big nut is the axle nut, do not remove it with a load on the wheel, it can mess up the bearing. the rotors are not bolted on, once you remove the wheel and the caliper / bracket? the rotor just slides off. unless you live in the rust belt in which case you may have to bang on it.

is that miles or kilometers? 63,000 is nothing. it is probably 2wd, i don't see any awd emblems. but it is SUPER DELUXE.!!