johnceggleston

the dealer should have both plate and screws, (one screw is different - it comes with locktite or sealant on it) but it will becheaper online. if you have not done subaru rear seals please heed this advice. there is more than one poster out there that had to pull the engine twice because they replaced the rear seal. typically, they do not leak. i have heard that they are installed when the 2 engine block halves are bolted together, not pushed in from the rear after they are bolted together. this does not mean it can not be done , but if it is not leaking, why chance it. others who have done it successfully will advise you on how to.

don't replace the rear main seal, unless there is over whelming evidence , after you have pulled the engine, that it is leaking. usually the oil leak on the rear of the engine is the oil seperator plate, not the rear main seal. if you replace the rear main seal, there is a very high likleyhood that it WILL leak in the very near future. lots of subaru engines were sold with plastic seperator plates on the rear of the engine, behind the flywheel / flexplate. replace the leaking plate , even if it is metal, with a new one AND NEW SCREWS use RTV to seal. pull the oil pump and replace the o-ring behind it and double check the screws on the back plate. sometimes they loosen up and cause leaks. no new parts required (except the o-ring), just make sure they are tight (maybe with locktite).

yea doc, throw in warm food and cold drink, and i'll drive up and help.

if you have only one odd size tire you are better off putting in the fuse to prevent trans / transfer clutch damage. but i wouldn't plan on driving that way until you wear out the 3 good tires, the duty c probably will make it that long but it may not. if you have 2 pairs of matching tires, they match each other but not the other pair, then put them on different sides of the car and leave the fuse out. you'll have 4wd and you will be able to determine if the binding you feel is internal or caused by the odd tire. the open diffs will allow for the different size tires side to side, but noting will allow for different size front to rear except the fuse. if it has been run with an odd size for very long it may have caused some damage. usually torque bind is caused by not changing the ATF or from the duty-c solenoid failing or by mis-matched tires. if you have to, you can pull the rear section of the drive shaft, but then it's only front wheel drive. put the fuse in until you buy a pair of tires, and buy them before it snows.

there is lots of info here on torque bind if you search for it. with 2 new and 2 old tires you are better off running both new ones one on the same side of the car. long term use of the FWD fuse may cause the duty solenoid to wear out early. good luck.

this AWD system is a computer controlled integrated part of the 4eat auto trans. it is not a 4WD system as you have know in the past. the system always monitors the speed differential between the front and rear wheels and it adjust the power output to the rear wheels as needed. on flat dry pavement, you have a 90 / 10 split favoring the front. ( it is not simply a front wheel drive car, if you put in the already mentioned FWD fuse and test drive the car you will feel a difference from the AWD driving conditions.) when the front wheels slip due to slick conditions like mud, snow or rain, the computer will send more power to the rear, if it is working correctly. so if all 4 tires are the same circumference (within 1/4 inch) and properly inflated, drive it and forget it. .

ok, you are new and you are desperate. i do not see cheap in this outcome. some basics. any 2.5L engine 96 - 99 from a legacy (outback, GT, LSi) will work. but you might just be buying someone else's bad head gasket engine.. beware. any 2.2L engine, 90 - 99 will work, but some will be easier / better than others. a 95 2.2L engine from an auto trans car is your first choice, it has the EGR system you need. a 96 2.2L engine will be second, but you will also need the exhaust manifold y-pipe, (one has single exhaust port heads and one has double exhaust port heads). 97 - 99 will be an easy swap, but some may not have the EGR, double check. a 90 - 94 will bolt in and run just fine, but none of them have the EGR and so you will always have a CEL light. you can search here: www.car-part.com . or you can contact www.CCR.com. (i think that is the address, if not you can put this phrase into the search engine here and find them : "CCR*". or google colorado rebuilders maybe. they have replacement, completely rebuilt engines with warrantys which they will stand behind. now, why do you need a new engine?????

the used parts interchange software makes a big deal of the 6/95 date, built before and built after. it is my understanding that, 6/95 and before the 5 speed will be a 4.11 final drive and after 6/95, i am 100 percent sure, the 5 speed final drive is 3.9. but if the numbers (ty752vaaaa) on the bell housing @ the starter match, it should work. for reasons i do not understand in june of 95, they swapped the final drives ratios in manuals and autos. they just traded 4.11s for 3.9s.

i just ASSUMED that the wiring for the back up lights went through the neutral safety switch which is mounted on the trans. (auto anyway) is this wrong??

in my limited opinion, based on the way these temp gauges work, they are little better than idiot lights. i don't know the temp ranges, but basically they don't move from normal move at all until a certain temp, and then when they do move, they spike. there is very little difference between normal and hot. just my opinion. the car idling at standard operating temp will not over heat unless the cioolant level drops. it just does not create that much heat, I THINK. but when you drive it, the amount of heat it must disperse goes up dramatically. so you have a problem but at idle it isn't enough to over heat the system. i would test it by letting it idle in the driveway on evening and then shutting off and letting it cool. check the level in the morning. if it has a leak, the level will go down over time. if you have to drive it, remove the t-stat. this will also let you check the coolant level over several days.

i test drove a 99 just like that today. there is a known problem with 99 - 01? auto trans. usually it is a slow to engage when shifting from p to d or r to d. maybe 2-3 seconds. some have had good luck using Trans-x atf additive with new fluid. i don't have any idea if yours is the same problem (a seal) but it may be worth a try. the car i drove (160k and it was trashed, i bet the atf was original) was said to have a downshift problem on hills, any sign of that? try shifting manually and see if it is slow or slips then.

it sounds like you are re-filling it correctly, or at least close enough. and you are right, it shouldn't be that hard. so if it's not an air bubble, and a gasket leak would have to be the size of a golf ball to overheat that fast, what is causing this?? blocked radiator, or fans not working? do the fans run when it warms up? do they come on when you turn on the AC? did you use a subaru t-stat?

yeah, i hope it's not the gaskets either. did you have any work done to the car just prior to the first over heat. usually these things develope slowly and initially they leak rather slowly too. it is surprising that it overheated so quickly after the flush. what svx is referring to is, if you did not "burp" the cooling system correctly after the flush and refill, it may have an air bubble in it. that will cause it to overheat. the external head gasket leak is usually on the rear of the engine between the head and the block. (duh) i don't think it is unusual for there to be no drips on the car or ground. just a wet, damp, discolored, maybe oily spot, i don't really know. it leaks so slowly, as long as you top it off all the time, you can still drive it. one recent post told of a guy who would pour the over flow tank coolant into the radiator every morning and afternoon before he drove it. if you haven't had any work done recently which contributed to the first overheat, it is possible that the 'after the flush' overheat was due an air bubble. if you search here for burp or coolant refill or something similar you will find the instructions for the proper filling to avoid an air bubble. http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/headgasket.html .

automatic? what is the problem with your trans? i assume you are looking for the auto trans with the part number, something like, TZ1A4ZJEBA, this was used in most of the 99 outbacks. a very very few used the trans with the number TZ102Z2DBA, this trans was also used in 97 + 98. check the id tag under the hood on the driver side strut tower for the trans number. if you have the .....JEBA trans you will have to use one from 99. if you have the ...2DBA trans you can use any outback trans from 96 - 98. (or any 96 - 98 2.5L trans, but the speedo may be off a little.)

this is a classic description of a head gasket failure. '00 - '02 2.5L engines are prone to head gasket failure in the form of coolant leaking out on the rear of the engine probably on the driver side. you may be able to continue driving it as is if you add coolant every day. the 96 - 99 2.5L engines would fail with an internal leak into the coolant. and as the leak got worse you couldn't hardly drive the car at all. the internal leaks would deposit black oily exhaust gunk into the coolant. did you see any of this?? depending where you are the repair may run from 1000$ to 2000$. how mnay miles on the car? how long have you had it? don't let it over heat too much or you colud cook the bearings. if and when you have the work done you need to make sure to use a subaru head gasket, not some off brand company.

just the cluster

when i did my swap i removed the IAC from the side of the throttle body for better access to the flex plate bolts. thankfully i marked it before i removed it, so i got it back in the same position afterwards.

how did you read the code? are you sure it's a 33? a tcu code is different than a ecu code for a check engine light. but you are probably just using the wrong term. what all did you do when you rebuilt the trans? it kind of sound like it's looking for the other speed sensor that ti would have if it was AWD. check the wire connector that plugs in the trans to the car harness, on bell housing above speed sensor. look for bent pins? i just double checked, an ECU 33 means the same as a TCU 33, VSS #2.

the speed sensor is on the passenger side of the trans where it meets the engine near the firewall. it has a cable coming off of it running to the speedo. it could be disconnected, the cable could be broken, or the sensor could be bad, or maybe the "drive" gear in the differential is bad. take a look.

the rear o2 is just a monitor. usually the p0420 is a front o2 code. it can be the cat, but lots of times a new front "subaru" o2 sensor will correct it. aftermarket stuff will / may not correct it. rarely is it the cat. but it could be important to read the code description carefully, inefficient circuit might be different than bad cat.

any 2.2L engine 90 - 99 will work, but you will be much happier if you use one that matches your EGR set up. pre 95 they didn't have EGR systems, and 95s only had them in auto trans cars. in 97 the 2,2L engine became an interference engine, before then a broken timing belt meant no damage. if the engine you install does not haveEGR and your current engine does you will get a CEL all the time. but you have lots to choose from. why do you need an engine? i may know where you can get one.

73131AC010 this fits a 97 outback. probably the same for all 90 - 99 and beyond. i may have the bearing, i sold gary one for his H6 and again i'm betting they are all the same. but by the time you identify it and match it up with mine, you probably could have bought it, installed it and tackled another problem.

i did the same thing, 96 ej22 into a 97 GT ej25. you'll need the exhaust y-pipe, one has dual port heads and one has single port. if you have the 96 car, save and use the power steering lines, the forester ones will work, but the 96 will be cleaner. swap over the flex plates (or fly wheels), they match the trans not the engine. it's pretty easy, even i could do it.

i would say just run the car fax , but if you don't trust the mileage, how can you trust the vin they gave you. for 400 bucks, it doesn't matter, the warranty is more important. get it in writing. they may know the mileage, but hey have no idea how it was maintained or if the owner drove rally cross. their assessment is based on the condition of the car when it arrived and the condition of the fluid. get it in writing. GET IT IN WRITING!! but i doubt you will need it.

they are the same. the CBA was used in 96 and the DBA in 97 - 98 outbacks.