johnceggleston

you can tow a manual trans AWD in neutral with all 4 wheels down (or all 4 up), but you will not have any brakes. you do not want to tow with 2 down and 2 up with out removing the rear section of the drive shaft. it will cook the viscous coupling to the rear. the only drawback to the dolly is that you can't back up, very much. what will you be pulling it with.? this may make a difference.

if you did it at 60k you still have 45k before you need to do it again. the maintenance schedule calls for inspection every 30k and replacement at 105k. sell it as is, if asked tell them it's due at 165k. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html#2000Maintenance

have you tried pushing the reset button on the wiring harness? it may be hard to find, or tightly taped on the the harness.

having the dealer rebuild the transfer clutch, solenoid and clutch plates is about $1000. i paid a local trans shop 285$ to swap out my transfer extention housing with bad solenoid for a known good used rear housing. i supplied the parts. labor was ~70$ - 75$ an hour. you can get the solenoid and 2 solenoid gaskets (2 gaskets fr the valve assembly needed.) online for less than 90$. the repair can be done without pulling the trans.

does this help? ( taken from the passenger side, strut tower) you you can't see the 3rd leg of the "t" but it's under there and goes to the same place in the other picture.

i think you can but , will the heads from a 99 ej22 bolt on to a 92 block? would that make it an interference engine?, i don't think so, right? the 99 doesn't run, i figure timing belt and bent valves, the 92 i can get for a good price. i was just wondering about swapping the heads over and getting a non-interference engine with egr. make sense or too much work just to avoid a cel? thanks, john

there's a sticky with this in it. new gen FAQ sticky

"not leaking enough" either she is pregnant or she isn't.

i could be very wrong, but i think it is supposed to go to a "t" which also connects to the " filter" in the picture that is connected to the manifold. and then a third piece of hose goes to the manifold. check your old engine for the "t". please correct, if wrong.

PimpinSquee has been on since sept. of '08. don't hold your breath.

insert suggestive joke here.

anybody old enough to remember the old prestone anti-freeze commercials on TV, back when anti-freeze came in a metal can. they would use a small sharp tool to punch a hole in the side of the can and then showed how the leaking slowed until it stopped. i was so impressed i remember it 40 years later, and the product name too. that's good advertising. and now back to your regularly scheduled program.

if you can show him some pictures ir may help. nobody reads directions, but pictures are pretty, we'll look at them. throw in one of yourself just for fun. good luck.

you're right, i mixed them up, poor dumb brain. sorry, i will correct.

when subaru introduced the 2.5L engine in the us it was always paired with the lower geared final drive, 4.11 manual, 4.44 auto, in the legacy any way. but they also always used larger diameter tires which mostly off set the lower gearing. (the one exception was the 96? - 99? GT which had legacy size tires.) as a result there isn't a great difference in how the legacy and the outbcak drive, except for the increased power in the 2.5l. and the lower miles per gallon is the result of the larger engine, not the lower gearing. the point is this, would larger tires accomplish the lower rmp you are looking for? would you need longer struts for larger tires? just a thought. EDIT: i corrected this post after edrach pointed out my error. the next post may be slightly confusing as a result.

the alt/ps belt can be found in my neighborhood at the following: gates @ bumper-to-bumper for $12.46 gatorback @ autozone for $26.37 yes , i know saturday has come and gone, i should have posted yesterday. oh well. if i was going to break out the tools to adjust the squeeling belt, i may as spend the 12$, replace it, and not have to adjust it yet again in six months.

so how much does a fly wheel cost $200?, save the 200$, that's 16%. or how about a low mileage used flywheel, is that a practical idea or a waste of time and money? i thought the book value for R & R a trans (auto) was 3.5 - 4 hrs. 6 - 7 sounds high to me. does any one know? i paid 285$ to have the rear extention housing swapped out on my 95 lego a/t ( labor only) and i think he pulled the trans, but i don't really know. granted this is a 5spd but still .....

+1 ask about the head gaskets, they may have been done , but mine haven't been @ 130k. even when the head gaskets are bad theses engines will drive all day around town with no overheat, but could overheat in 15 minutes on the hiway. test drive it, warm it up and then run it on the hiway. did the seller mention anything about the t-stat or radiator? .

post #10 here, lots of good info , keep it as a reference. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51554

yes , everything will fit except the head liner of the outback, the step roof is different.

i should have made that bet. congrats on your success. so, now all you want to work on are subarus, right? or are you going back to the dark side?

wanna bet!! just kidding, no offense intended. we get this all the time. a couple of weeks ago a guy on here with several thousand posts made the same mistake. it's easy to do. look at the pics and make sure you are using the correct marks on all 3 sprockets. once you have put it back together to test run it, it's impossible to check the crank mark unless you pull the pulley and timing belt cover. the crank mark is not on the face of the sprocket, it's on one of the reluctors, (tabs) on the rear edge of the sprocket. it's a hash mark, a line on the tab, like the cam sprocket marks. and the keyway is in the 6 oclock position. keep at it , you'll get it. PS: make sure you torque it to spec (search or ask), or it will loosen and kill the crank keyway, sorta common.

how to info on timing belts, several good articles with pictures. save yourself some work and read these first. timingbelt how to. NEVER USE THE ARROWS!!! articles on timing belts and other good info (thanks ob99w)

i'm not sure i understand completely, but, the arrows are not the timing marks on the cams or the crank. there are posts you can search for with "endwrench" articles the will have pictures and write ups. if you use the correct marks and place them at 12 oclock, it will be right. if you use marks on the belt which have the wrong tooth count if will end up wrong. something's off, redo the belt. i don't know why subaru has the arrows on the sprockets since i have never heard of someone using them to rebuild or repair an engine, but i only know what i read here. welcome to the world of subaru. endwrench articles on timing belts

this doesn't sound like you typical HG overheat. usually there is no heat coming through the heater when it over heats, because there an 'air lock' restricting water flow. t-stat, or maybe a plugged radiator.??