johnceggleston

if it was damaged it would probably be the viscous coupling, some times referred to as the center diff. it's replaceable. if you do need a trans, there may be a very slight difference in the 3rd gear for some years and models, but more likely the final drive ratio. search "trannychart" and use the number off of the bell housing at the starter and you can find matching trans from other years.

there should be a fuse holder marked FWD under the hood. on earlier legacys it was on the passenger side near the fire wall and wiper motor. at some point they moved into the fuse box i think. i don't know imprezas. any way put a fuse in there , any fuse, and see if the problem goes away. it will put your car in front wheel drive mode. you can use this to diagnose problems and when running on the spare. if the problem goes away it's torque bind caused by the transfer clutch in the rear extension housing of the trans. sesarch for torque bind and read up on it, it has been covered a lot.

yes, same head. before you pull the head, double check the timing belt and alignment marks. it may have jumped time. but your compression is so low i doubt it, maybe a valve.??

best choice, 96 - 98 outback second best, 96 - 98 legacy GT or LSi, the speedo will be slightly off. third best, 96 - 98 legacy L or LS, you will need the rear diff as well. in a nutshell, any trans from a lego 96 - 98 with a 2.5L engine will work fine. if it's from a 2.2L lego, you will need the rear diff too.

a lockksmith may be able to re-pin/ re-key the cylinder. the hard part is getting it out of the door. not brain surgery, but still a bit of a challenge. or buy a used matching door and ignition cylinders and replace both so one new key unlocks both. or buy a used cylinder and pay a locksmith to re-key to match yours. or don't tell any one it can be opened with a french fry. oops, too late.

lots of this going around, it's called torque bind and repair / replace extention housing is the solution. but i've never herd of new clutch causing accelerated trans problems. the dealer can repair for about 1000$, the parts are around 200$ online. you can do the repair without pulling the entire trans, just the rear section. used is an option, but unless you are doing the work your self and don't mind doing something twice it could be risky. this seems to be a wear part and unless you know the part you're getting ......

that's understandable, but before you give up, compare the cost of the engine trans swap, worst case, with the cost of starting over.

but way cheaper than a new MAF.

this is just a guess but i think if you hurt the trans it was just the rear extension housing bearings. my first choice would be to buy a wreck with good eng and trans. i got a 96 lego 2.2L auto w/ 125k for 400$ plus 60$ to two it home. no you can't tow it on a dolly with out disconnecting the drive shaft unless you are willing to damage it. the trans oil pump supplies lubrication for the bearings. when the car is off, and you jack up one rear wheel, it will spin freely. it is not hard connected to the trans gears and shafts. the whole thing is backwards and has been explained several times, but the trans pump creates fluid pressure and the duty c meters it, but no pressure equals disconnected, full pressure is locked. the duty c must bleed off pressure to reduce the 'locking'. but i get this wrong almost every time i think about it. once nipper reads this he'll roll his eyes, correct the errors and add something about a spool valve.

i thought with engine off there was no fluid pressure and so the rears would spin free from the trans. i also thought with no fluid pressure there would be no lube on the spinning components.

how far and how fast did you tow??

my 95 has 14" alloys, would they clear the brakes? is it the diameter or the inner contour that rubs?

my general rule of thumb is this: if it was offered as an option when the car was new, then the wiring is probably there. i haven't proven this wrong yet, but i've only owned 6 subarus and didn't add anything to 4 of them, so i could be wrong.

there are a couple of exceptions, but if both engines are/were 2.2L the final drives are probably the same.

would corrosion on the mounting surface cause this ??

if it is your trans it's the first time i have ever heard of this. but that doesn't mean much i learn new things all the time. i bet it's the power steering / alt belt. mine squealed at start up after the timing belt change. you may be able to get it to do it with a very hard turn from a dead stop. in theory you could remove the belt and take the car for a drive and the sound would be gone, but that would be very dangerous since you would have no power steering. try tightening the belt a little. how much flex is in the belt now.?

i would look for a used front speed sensor, they are the same 95 -99 for both engines, at the very least. probably the same on the 2000 and up, but i don't know. some one here should have a shelf full of them. you may be able to carefully turn the input with an electric drill while it's attached to the sensor wire connection to test it before you install it. but the install is easy. (edit: easy out of the car, never done it in the car)

true on older models, newer ones have a pair of wires from the front speed sensor on the trans/front diff, passenger side kind of low, to the speedo. depending which is cheaper or easier to come by, replace the sensor or speedo. i always thought it was the sensor.

something like this timingbeltinfo: When (not ''if'' ) the t-belt gets changed, be sure to check for loose back plate screws on the oil pump, since that can cause the crank seal to leak. 2.2 Liter timing belt info: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf 2.5 Liter DOHC timing belt: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.5Timing.pdf http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTi...ReplaceF00.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/StepEWAug07.pdf Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf Thread discussing crank bolt removal: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ad.php?t=48091 Thread discussing t-belt/idler/tensioner kits: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ad.php?t=95187

try http://www.cars101.com

if they maintain the pattern of the 90s, 2000 - 2004 will fit, 2005 - ?? will be different, and 95-99 are definitely different.

ej22 90 - 96 are non-interference, 97 and beyond are interference. all ej25s are interference.

this is a great collection of timing belt info, has it been named "timing belt info" and added to the repair manual? i know that no one searches there first, including me, but it might be easier to post a search phrase or link in response to all of the first timers questions. and the questions about ''i just did my timing belt and now my engine doesn't run right?" thanks 99 !!

new pulley, new bolt, new key, inspect the crank sprocket, replace if needed, inspect the keyway. clean the threads with brake cleen. torque to spec, with thread lok. how are you holding the crank when torquing? what torque wrench are you using? is it accurate?

napa may have good, maybe the best, non-OEM products, but i dislike their website. maybe it's just because it's new to me, but i find it difficult to navigate, not terribly logical, and less than satisfying.