johnceggleston

invest in an angle drill or maybe an attachment. you help the environment and save the cost of the freon. if the space is close to being enough, maybe shorten the drill bit, maybe 2 of increasing size.

what he said. is the car in the driveway, garage, or in the grass? look under the car. can you see the ring gear? try removing the jack plate.

when dealing with automatics the last 2 digits refer to the model the trans was installed in, BA for ouyback, AA for legacy, CA for GT i think. manual trans may be different. i would suggest you copmpare the 3.9 final drive 5 speed to the part number for the 4.11 final drive 5 speed. excluding the last 2 characters, there will be a difference, probably not in the first 5 digits either. but that difference will probably refer to the final drive ratio. generally the 3rd to last digit refers to the sequence/year of the trans, again autos. but there are not a lot of differences inbetween years if the final drive is thew same. as mentioned, the 2.2 usually had a 3.9 final drive and the 2.5 usually had a 4.11 final drive, manuals 95 - 99. so you are going to need final drive confirmation.

ok, it sounds like you know what you are doing, but i'll ask any way. are you using the correct timing marks on the cam sprockets and crank??

the code will be there for a while, not for ever. at some point the computer will clear the memory. i don't know how long or what may trigger it.

there's a procedure for checking to make sure your rear diff final drive matches your front diff final drive. you might check yours just to be sure. jack up both tires on one side of the car, mark the 6 oclock positing on both tires, unplug the wiring harness to the trans, start the car and put it in neutral, hand brake off. (it would be very good to have the other wheels chocked and no one in the line of fire, just in case.) this will lock the drive train in 4WD. now if you turn the rear wheel by hand several full rotations, the front wheel should match it turn for turn. if the marks on the tires end up in the same positions the final drives match. just a thought.

well i had a 93 2.2 lego with 'bolt wobble' which finally gave up and boogered the crank keyway and both pulleys. i had to have that one ''glued" back together. (i know, not the best solution, but it ran until i wrecked it.) on my 95, i noticed the problem and corrected it before it got out of hand. i don't see the difference between the ej22 and the ej25 as far as the crank bolt torque spec goes. they use the same bolt, key, pulley, and the cranks are made the same. at the very least, i'd add some thread lok to prevent the loosening. both of my wobble cars seemed to have been worked on by non subaru shops. the 93 is dead and gone, but the 95 has 195k miles and is being beaten to death by a college student. it has about 25k on the wobble bolt repair and timing belt. i had everything replaced when i did it, since i wasn't sure if i was going to be able to go back into it after using the thread lok.

i thought this was at least a 125 torque spec, if not 140 ft lb.

the it has to be the igniter??? maybe.

since the fuse in solves the problem, it appears that the duty c solenoid is working. this would seem to mean that it is the clutch plates or hubs or some variation. if this problem was new, not 3 years old i would suggest changing your trans fluid, this has helped some with torque bind. several drain and fills with driving in between, will replace almost all of the fluid. do this now and again in several weeks and your situation might improve. but since you have had this problem for years, it may not help. but it is still pretty cheap even if it does not help. does it bind up in all turns or only when you turn it all the way?? my 95 was bearable in most turns until i turned it all the way. i swapped in a known good rear extension housing.

used parts - www.car-part.com new oem parts on line: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Legacy&subcat=Exhaust%2C+Front+Pipe&year=1999 https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214327 this is a great research site but i don't know about buying from them: http://opposedforces.com/parts/ generally, i'd rather buy used than aftermarket, but that's just me.

as you said, the rear diff problem is second on your repair list. you don't need the drive train if the engine doesn't run. but not to worry, if it is the rear diff they are cheap and easy to find. lsd 3.9 rear diffs on the other hand are a different story.

i didn't use any sealant on my 2.2, just new gaskets that came with my timing belt kit, on ebay.

yes 1 of 1 and 5 of the other http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82587&highlight=sep*

i copied this number off of the pic of your diff above. it was a very common rear diff, used from 84 on brats up thru 94 on legacys, w/ & w/o turbos. 27011aa151 says nothing about lsd. plug it in here: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

ok, wait a minute i'm probably wrong, i just assumed with a cam on each head there would be a sensor on each head. someone correct me. ooops!!!!!!

new screws for the plate, one is different from the others so there will be 2 part numbers, one of one and several of the others.

this fuse holder is not with the other fuses. it does not protect an electrical circuit. it is a diagnostic disconnect switch for the awd transfer clutch in the rear extension housing of the transmission. when the transfer clutch goes bad, you get torque bind when turning. LOOK FOR THE FUSE HOLDER MARKED FWD. passenger side near the firewall. little black thing about the size of a zippo lighter. the cap has FWD on it but it may be missing the cap.

is it an auto trans? how many mil;es? you could have torque bind, as mentioned. if it's an automatic, look for the fuse holder under the hood passenger side near the fire wall with FWD on it. put any fuse in there and see if your problem improves. if it is a manual trans, please disregard.

yeah, but which one, left or right? there are 2, should be the same, but one each side. i guess you could replace one with new, if it runs great, if not swap the removed one to the other side and try. if not ....... you can get a lot of used parts for 80$ .....

if an idler failed, very likely, you will need to replace it before you can put on the belt and check compression. made borrow or buy a used one just to test. they should all be replaced if you want to drive the car a long time.

all vac hoses where they should be??

now you know why some of us don't go to dealers. i think the ecm reprogramming is a scam. if you want to use the dealer to do this i would do one item at a time and ask before hand what you can expect in the way of change in how the cars runs as a result of the service or repair. this will give you leverage when it does nothing. or it does nothing more than disconnecting the battery and resetting the computer.

ecu should be under the carpet passenger side, up near the fire wall. hold it, that's for a LHD car, not sure about a RHD. but maybe.

there is nothing hard about r&r of the engine, with one exception, and that's only a problem if you do not know about it. re-seating the torque converter is a little tricky, read this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=torque+converter