johnceggleston

i think you are looking at about 8 hours of labor. it can be done in less, but i think that's the going rate. the part isn't too bad, 25 - 35$. othere things you can do with the engine out: clutch timing belt - if needed, 96 ej22 due at 105k or 60k intervals reseal front, cam seals, crank seals & orings, valve covers, etc. of course, all of this adds up. and only the seperator and clutch require removing the engine or trans. trans may be cheaper to remove. do you have an independent shop that can do the work instead of the dealer ?

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was that an online price qoute?

if the rear o2 sensor was oem, here's what i would do (assuming the o2s for 00-04 are the same as 96-99): remove the rear o2 sensor and splice it onto the connector for the front o2 sensor, and install it. now your high dollar subaru o2 is where it needs to be. buy a generic o2 for the rear sensor (maybe move the front one to the rear). reset the codes and see what happens. in the 96-99 legacy/outbacks, the p0420 means your front sensor is bad and it has to be a subaru part. your year may be different.

there's a great site for comparing the different models in the 80s. there's a link in the task bar above. http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/specs/general/specyears.html

two things, a friend of mine bought a new 08 legacy last year, and was very surprised and concerned when i told him about having to replace all 4 tires instead of one. but he relaxed when i asked him how many times he had to replace just one tire on his old car that he traded in, he had never had to replace just one tire. replace a set, sure, but just one ...... only my wife drives over curbs that often. if you have an automatic and you put in the FWD fuse, you will feel the difference. if you are used to driving a FWD car it will feel ok with the fuse in, but if you are used to AWD, you will feel the difference. awd is much more stable in my opinion.

the screws on the old plastic seperator plate are machine screws with a tapered head, the screws for the new metal plate are round head. you can't use the old screws on the new plate. if you have a round head phillips screw on a new plate, i don't know. but buggering during removal should not effect correct torque for installing. you are bearing on different surfaces. use lock tite if in doubt. the new screws are expensive, but will not break your bank. even if they are $1.00 each it's still only 6 bucks? but i don't think they are that much. the real drag is waiting to get them from a dealer.

stick to 95 - 99 and you should be good. http://www.car-part.com

the tool you dropped is inbetween the flex plate (fly wheel) and the rear of the engine. nothing is going to give more room except removing the flex plate, meaning you would have to pull the engine. so either the tool dropped to the bottom, or it got hung up on the way. why did you say it was a no go from below? what did you see when you looked? if the tool dropped to the bottom, you may, may have luck lifting the engine a little and fishing it out. what did you see when you looked at the bottom of the tc/flex plate? got a pic?

SOHC have 2 cam sprockets, one on each side. DOHC have 4 cam sprockets, 2 one each side. lean over and look down the front of the engine, if there are 2 big round ear like things on each side, yours is DOHC, phase 1.

look for the hash marks on the rear of the crank sprocket, it goes up. look for the aligning marks on the engine / timing housing.

you are using the wrong marks to line up the crank a cam pulleys. if ytou don't have a haynes repair manual, search here for the correct info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php

did you mark it first??????

yes, your is interference. all 2.2s after 96 are interference. if the belt broke when the engine was running, or even when it was trying to start, the damage is done, if any. rotating the engine while trying to remove the crank pulley is not going to do any more damage.

does it drip just when running or when sitting too? the hoses to the heater are in that area, passenger side engine rear. look under the intake manifold, there is a coolant crossover pipe that the upper rad hose connects to.

i have never done the seal but more than one member has had to do the seal twice, because they set it too deep? or something the first time. i'm willing to bet that there are subarus with250k miles and original rear main seals. some people drive these cars leaking a lot, how badly is your rear seal leaking? if it's not leaking, don't touch it. any one out there had a serious rear main leak????

unless your rear seal is leaking, don't replace it. if you do replace it, take special note of where it is seated, located, before you remove it. otherwise you may regret touching it.

mark the tc in the bung hole from above and then rotate the engine with the crank bolt. if your mark moves or disappears, it's still connected. if the mark remains you have a problem. the teeth on the torque converter which the starter use to turn over the engine will be visible from below at the cross member. worst case, remove the jack plate on the cross member. you should be able to see some of the bolt heads from below. with the plate off you can see about 45 degrees of the bottom of the torque converter. rotate 45* and you should see at least 1 bolt head. mark the one and then look for the other 3.

rotate the torqueconverter by hand (maybe from below) until you see a flex/tc bolt, or at least a bolt hole. the flex plate may have busted. mark the tc/flexplate with some thing to make sure it;s not moving when you turn the crank bolt.

this shows i different cause. maybe has to do with maf circuit?? http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

the only difference between the 95 L 5 speed and the 97 gt 5 speed is the differential final drive ratio, 3.9 vs. 4.11. the clutch should be the same.

drain and refill the trans fluid with new, include a qt. of trans-x stop leak. search for it here and read. folks have had good luck with it on 99 auto trans. there is a seal that tends to leak, the trans-x helps. one of the threads is current. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87708

the front calipers and rotors are different, larger on the GT, same as outback i think, you can swap them over as long as you swap the wheels. there's a recent thread on this, but you'll be fine if you don't swap them. rears are the same unless you have drums, which i doubt. i've had 95 + 96 legos, 97 gt and 97 outback and i've never seen drums. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99461 i would make the wheel decision based on tire life expectancy. no reason to discard good 14" tires for 16" wheels that need tires. you'll need tires eventually, you can trade wheels then. but if you need tires now or the gt wheels get your wife/girlfriend excited ...... oooooooooo gt wheels.