johnceggleston

the flange on the idler does not matter. i think that is a 00- 0 4 item. it sure isn't an ej22 thing from the early or mid 90s. i'm not sure which way the sleeve goes. try it both ways, one will be better.

it is pretty rare but possible. you can pull it and look at the circuit board. there have cases where a bad TCU caused torque bind. the guy said the circuit board was scorched. i forget, have you traced the wires and looked for cuts, abrasions, or rodent chew marks? code 32 is for the VSS1, which is on the rear trasfer case of the trans. i have NEVER heard of one of these going bad. (the front speed sensor, VSS2 can and will fail.) so i'm thinking this is a wiring issue, or a communication issue. the TCU would be a good place to start. somewhere there is a pinout for the 95 TCU. probably others.

there is a sleeve with a flat washer type shoulder that fits in the bolt hole from the back side. it is not unusual for the new bolt or sleeve to not be exactly right. but i guess it depends on where you bought it and who made it. look around for the sleeve. the rest of the idlers look fine. install them.

do you still have the TPS trouble light? fix this first. if the trans does not know where the throttle is , it will shift funny. are you checking the trans dip stick? how long is the dip stick? where is it? i think the TCU is under the dash, it is on the 95 - 99 legos.

this cam be dangerous . most folks don't. but since your car is should be non-interference it matters less.

first guess flex plate. where is the sound coming from? front? left? right? center ? under your seat?

you can't afford not to. NGK wires or subaru wires from an online dealer, about $40. ngk plugs, i forget the cost but they are not overly expensive, more than $2 but less than $10. $6 - $7 i think. what is your time worth, you could spend countless hours trying to diagnose your problems all because you bout lessor wires. if you shop online at advance auto parts, you can get substantial discounts, up to 30% sometimes. order on line and pick up in the store 30 min. later, if it is in stock. anyway, you could be shooting yourself in the foot by buying cheap. but suabru or ngk wires and ngk plugs. benefit from the failures of others.

it sounds like torque bind. do you have a flashing AT Temp light on the dash at start up? i have not heard of this happening in the VDC before, but i have not heard that it doesn't happen either. the 01 VDC does not have a FWD fuse. but it does have a VDC off fuse you can put in. it is located in the fuse box under the hood, the fuse should be labeled on the lid, it is the one closest to the passenger seat, i'm pretty sure. put a fuse in and see what happens. i don't know enough to know if this should or will help. but since there is no FWD fuse, it is your best shot to diagnose your problem., maybe. are all of your tires rthe same: size?: brand? model? tread pattern? tread depth? tread wear? air pressure? the tires need to match.

the roof line on the wagon is different than the roof line on the sedan. there is also a door difference between 95 - 96 and 97 - 99. they added a large ''security'' bolt to help maintain car integrity during a crash. so doors need to come from your year sub-group.

buy very high QUALITY wires, these engines are picky. or order them from an online subaru dealer. and NGK plugs. don't go over board on the plugs. just get the ones spec-ed in the owners manual.

the 99 forester ej25 is a sohc and the valves are pretty easy to adjust. unlike the eh25dohc engine. this is not a conclusive test, but if you hold a dollar bill over the exhaust while the engine is running, and it ''sucks back in'' as opposed to always being push away, it could indicate a burnt or open exhaust valve. but if the heads were sent out, the valves should have been checked. did this issue start as soon as the engine was back together? or did it develop later?

are you using the adapter plate?

search for "torqueconverter" posted by me, and read the oldest ones first for a ''how to''

yes, all ej25 have a dual port heads. so the y-pipe will fit. but around 04 they did make some changes, so stick to 96 - 01. you can also use orther y-pipes, legacy 90 - 95 ej22 impreza ej22 93 - 95 impreza ej18 93 - 97

KYB struts. and rumor has it that forester springs are taller. and when compressed onto outback struts, you get a little stiffer ride and a little taller stance, less sag. but new outback springs would probably do it as well. and depending on the clunk, yours could be broken.

this is not accurate. all auto trans 90 - 98 have the same model number, TZ102Zxxxx. (loyale not included, and maybe SVX ) in the late 90s, 95 - 98, the last 2 characters in the number represent the model the trans was installed in, or probably more correctly, the speedo gears. outback = BA legacy = AA GT = CA, i think. the third to last character represents where in the series the trans falls, B comes after A but before C or D. in the impreza line they used a number. and finally, in the late 90s, the fourth to last character represents the final drive ratio. or probably more correctly, the front diff, ring / pinion and torque converter. ALL auto trans in 2.5 L cars have a "2" in this position, and they all have the 4.44 ratio. (example, 97 obw = TZ102Z2CBA) the ej22 and ej18 auto trans have a letter in this position, (example, 97 legacy L = TZ102ZACAA) and the final drive ratio and torque converter size are the only differences. i'm not an impeza guy, but i'm willing to bet $20 that all of the above is also true for the impreza as well. and all you have to do to double check is look up each year, and model of impreza at http://opposedforces.com/parts, and list the trans assembly ID# for each. you will see the patterns. regrettably, this pattern does not apply to the manual trans . the impreza trans tunnel may have changed, but the trans did not, not until 99 when the phase 2 was introduced. any auto trans 90 - 98 will bolt in. if the tunnel changed, just use the mounts off of the old trans. you just have to match the FD ratio, or change the rear diff to match the new trans.

back in 06, the book time for installing an auto trans in a 95 lego sedan was 3.5 hours. add another 50%? for removal of the old trans, you get 5.25 hours, less than a day. but here's the deal. the shop has not interest in buying the cheapest trans out here. on the contrary, if they are marking up the price, they want a more expensive trans. plus, the higher the used swap price, the more attractive the rebuild price is. but even if they are not making money on the trans, they want a trans that is going to be trouble free. so they may in fact pay a premium for a trans with a warranty. and some parts yards include the labor to R&R in their warranty. you pay more but you get more, if you need it. but even if they charge a full days labor (8 hr @ $100?) you can buy a used auto trans for less than 1200$, way less. but if you want a trouble free trans swap, with a warranty, $2000 is not a bad price. i know some one who paid $1800 10 years ago. the rebuild price was $2800. since she , nor you, can install the trans yourself, you are stuck with using a shop. but look at it this way, $2000 for a replacement trans, if you drive the car for 20k miles, ~2 years? the repair has cost you 10 cents a mile. if you drive it 4 years, the price comes down to 5 cents a mile. plus, how much would she have to spend to replace the car, more than $2000? more than $3000? one thing you might consider, ask how much to install if you provide the trans? then find one you like at www.car-part.com sort by zip code, to see what is close. if this shop will not do this, try another. but understand, you are assuming some of the risk. but these trans are pretty hardy and a good used trans is a pretty safe bet. the 99 impreza, also 00, auto trans is compatible with the 99- 00 lego auto trans. but not compatible with the outback, GT, forester, or any high end impreza like a WRX.

if this number is accurate, the trans should be a match, ratio wise. but this is the first time i have seen an impreza trans ID# like this. based on this number this trans comes from a 2.5L impreza. i'm not an impreza guy , so i'm not familiar with the 2.5L cars. i have only studied the ej18s and the ej22s. what car did the trans come from? if the trans number above is not correct, then i doubt the ratio will match.

i mis spelled forces.

td, if the connectors are the same, the electrical will work. take a close up of the connector and compare it with the 4.44 trans.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148114-95-22-legacy-l-swapped-into-a-99-legacy-l-30th-anniversary/?do=findComment&comment=1243118

if you are committed to this swap, find an buy a wrecked manual trans car. that way you are guaranteed to have ALL the parts you need, and probably pay less for them. then scrap everything you don't use. the 95 auto trans final drive ratio is 4.11. you need a manual trans from a 96 - 98 outback or GT, the ratios will match. but your speedo will be off. or buy and matching rear diff with the manual trans and swap them both. one more thing, the starters are different, don't forget the starter.

timing belt

look up the part number here: http://opposedforces.com/parts and click on usage info. it may list more than one year. EDIT: link corrected.

the 95 in to the 99 L is not an easy or ''plug and play'' swap. in fact, i would not call it swappable at all. the 99 is a phase 2 engine and the 95 is a phase 1 engine. you can probably get it to run, but it will never be trouble free, you will always have a ''check engine light''. however, depending on what is wrong with the 99 engine, you could use the 95 block with the 99 heads and stuff. this would get the 99 car running, but maybe not the most affordable solution. what is wrong with the 99 engine.?