johnceggleston

it used to be unlimited for 30 days. i guess they are increasing their price and limiting their service to increase the profit. if you ask, post the vin, some one may run it for you.

it's probably the contacts, but in case it's not... after searching for over 30 minutes i found this regarding the relay (i'll name it starterrelay.fix). i have copied from the original post so i could change the font color, thanks skip for the original post, 2003. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=67805&postcount=1 There are currently several active posts on starter engagement problems. I thought this may be of interest. (Please note, this article only refers to 1989 and earlier Subarus, newer Loyales MTs may have a clutch interrupt switch, see ** below) First to dispel info given in reference to any relays involved. There are none, repeat no relays come on a factory equipped car. As will be seen it is a reliable fix to add one, but there is no relay used for starter engagement. The ignition switch, when in the start position, feeds battery voltage directly to the starter solenoid unless the vehicle has an automatic transmission. In this case, there is an inhibitor switch in the console which only allows the control voltage to reach the starter solenoid in the park or neutral position. Just a switch no relay. (Note: Some may argue the starter solenoid is a relay, in an operational sense they are correct, in semantics -- I will refer to it as the factory does.) **Newer Loyales may have a clutch pedal switch. This switch located up under the dash in the path of the pedal swing arm, is depressed and thus in a "closed" position, when the clutch pedal is in a fully depressed state. If when you turn the ignition switch to the start position the starter fails to engage - A) It is possible that a battery cable or it's connection is dirty, loose, or corroded - thus creating high resistance. Here is a quick test. Hold the ignition in the start position for five seconds. Open the hood and place your hand on all battery connections and cable ends to feel for a warm connection. IF the starter has engaged and there is some current passing through a connection with high resistance - heat will be generated. Green colored or other "odd looking" connections are always suspects. It is possible that the starter solenoid internal contacts have burned and are not making full contact. While holding the ignition switch in the start position a sharp "rap" on the solenoid may jar the contacts into a closed position allowing the starter to engage. If this is the case you can elect to repair/replace the contacts or replace the solenoid/starter. C) If the above tests prove unsatisfactory, it is likely the ignition switch itself has problems. The starter solenoid needs a fair amount of current to energize. This puts the contacts in the ignition switch under duress. To test this, connect a "jumper" wire from the positive battery terminal to the small spade connector located on the starter solenoid. One will have to remove the factory connector before "jumping" the solenoid. (Please make sure car is in neutral or Park before doing this test) If the jumper wire allows the starter to engage, there are several fixes that can be employed. 1) Replace ignition switch - labor and $$ intensive, beyond the scope of this article. 2) Install a "Never Fail" button/ switch. This button (momentary switch) is wired to feed the control voltage to the starter solenoid, thus bypassing the ignition switch. A "make shift" solution at best. It will work and is a simple matter of wiring. to wit: a) Get a 10 amp momentary switch from the source of your choosing. Find a suitable mounting point for said switch. Most dashes have several "blanks" to choose from, or mount it under the dash as a secret switch. you will need a "feed voltage source". You could i) probe your fuse panel for an ignition switched "hot fuse". ii) run a fused connection directly to the battery iii) place a tap on the main ignition feed connector under the steering col. Since you will be running this voltage to the starter and through the bulkhead (firewall) a fused source should be used. This "feeder" is connected to one side of the procured switch. c) The other side of the switch is wired to the small spade connector on the starter solenoid. The proper method is to splice solder the wire to the existing wire, but some may stuff it under the female connector and slide the spade back in place. Please use a grommet or other form of protection when passing the wire through the bulkhead. These connection methods will allow the use of the normal ignition switch start position but when it fails the "Never Fail" button is used. If you choose to simply put a female spade connector on this wire and plug it on to the starter solenoid, the "Never Fail" will be the only way to get the car to start. 3) The best method, in my admittedly feeble mind, is the addition of a "start relay". This relay supplements the ignition switch and requires no "Never Fail" folderol (like in a case where some one borrows the car and you forget to tell them about the "Never Fail") The relay is controlled by the ignition switch and it in turn feeds the current necessary for starter solenoid engagement. An "auxiliary lighting" relay is a good choice, but any 12Vdc 10 amp relay will suffice. I mount mine under the hood and in the general location of the starter. This allows use of the factory female connector and simplifies getting a fused battery feed voltage. Here is the wiring of said relay. Hope this helps and please email me any corrections for any details I may have missed. neper at westol.com

many of the national chain auto parts stores will read codes for free, autozone, advance. year? model? trans?

maybe. did it start with the remote switch?? try the remote switch with the key in the on / run position, gear selector in park then neutral.

i agree, the 2.2 phase 1 belt is probably the one. (1.8 and 2.2 are the same) http://opposedforces.com/parts/ i haven't taken the time to look but you can go to this website and look up part numbers for european market subarus and us market subarus. if the part numbers are the same bingo. all you have to do is find a car with the 2.0L turbo? did they sell those in europe.

i'm a little lost but ... the primary fail point in these starters is the starter contacts, they get old worn scorched? and new ones usually fix the problem. if what you said "I even attached a remote switch to my starter and I could get it to turn over that way" is accurate, i suggest adding a relay at the starter (generic relay from autozone will do, 20 amp?). you can search for the thread here, but basically you disconnect the small wire on the starter and connect it to a relay, and run a new wire from the relay to the starter. then you add a new "FUSED" power wire from the battery to the relay and a new ground from the relay to ground. once done, the ignition controls / powers / activates the new relay and the new relay sends power from rthe battery to the starter solenoid. (very short wire run with nothing else on the circuit.) again, most folks replace the contacts and that fixes it. but in my case the relay did it. they say the contacts are easy, but i have memories of springs and things flying out of electric motors and getting lost on the floor and the motor never running again, apparently that isn't a real concern here.

ok, it's a 97, is that a ford or chevy? miles, model, trans, recent service, and ... what's it doing wrong??

no leaks?? are you loosing coolant?? how long does it take to over heat??

look inside the trunk for a removable panel???????

for 29$ i'd have a shop break it loose, remove it, wrap the plug threads with teflon tape, and re-torque it to something reasonable that i could loosen. my difficulty with the rear diff plugs was not being able to swing the breaker bar more than 10-15 degrees. unless the car is overhead, you just can't get a good position on it.

this happened to my 95 leg after an afternoon of low low fluid. ( the rear seal went, shop replaced but the idiot didn't put any fluid back in, said the level looked good on the did stick.) i drove it 3 months with no reverse, then swapped in a 96 trans. check fluid level when hot with the engine running, both sides of the stick, the lower reading is correct. i'd check it again when cold, just to make sure the stick didn't fool you and the fluid is at least in the ballpark. the dip stick can be hard to read. start looking for a used trans. ps: mine never got any worse.

95 leg 2.2 auto sedan

yes

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_47/manual_transmission/main_shaft/illustration_2/

97 gt auto wagon (142k) with 96 2.2L (125k) swap. auto trans was replaced former owner, so the mileage is unknown but i assume it's less than 142k. during the swap, subaru wires, ngk plugs, new t-belt, idlers, wp and seals all around. i've only just started driving this car, so my experience is limited, and i don't know how it drove before the swap. when accelerating from a stop up through the gears there is a braking or drag effect when shifting from 2 - 3. under hard acceleration with no pedal adjustment it can last several seconds, in normal driving it just a short but noticeable lag in speed. i searched and found a thread, on target, but with no resolution. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81583&highlight=kickdown i'm very reluctant to adjust a trans that was working ok for the PO, besides i don't think they get unadjusted very often. without any real knowledge, i was wondering if the slight power difference between 2.2 and the 2.5 could make a difference. doubtful. i have the TCU from the 2.2 legacy wagon that i could try but again, doubtful. tps sensor?? thanks, john

the basics, air, fuel , spark? then compression? i your memory of the crank being 180 off is correct, then someone has screwed up something before you got to it.

i assume the crank sprocket does in fact have the key in the key way, sprocket on correctly? what would happen if the camshafts were put on the wrong heads?? if the crank sprocket is 180 off, the keyway will be straight up, i think?

i hate posting bad information, i corrected my post. sorry for the confusion. john

i was doing it by seperating the ball joint from the control arm until recently. now i think marking the top strut bolt and then disconnecting the strut is easier. i used a big cold chisel to mark the edge of the bolt and the edge of the strut bracket right where they are about 1/4 inch apart. i'll add a pic if it stops raining. i don't know about the axle, but i've installed used without ever looking at them, no problem.

the clutch has nothing to do with it. manual trans can have torque bind, but less often and less likely. we need more info about how the car acts in tight turns. it should drive smoothly in tight turns with little or no gas. if you have to goose it to get it to go, describe how it drives. i may be leading you astray with torque bind, but the post regarding power steering problems are much fewer than posts about torque bind. more info will help identify the cause.

yes, fits engine drain plug, auto trans drain plug, impreza, legacy and forester, 93 - 04. edited for correction.

yes , different blank. 13.75$ retail. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_22/body_equipment_interior/key_kit_and_key_lock/illustration_1/ usage: http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/57497AG10A/

i'd jack up the front , start the car and turn the steering wheel. it should work fine. it sounds like torque bind to me. the description of it getting progressively worse seems to fit. search 'torque bind' you'll have lots to read. basically the the transfer clutch that sends power to the rear wheels is damaged and the front and rear wheels bind against each other when turning. would this test help diagnose torque bind in cars with auto trans?, it's similar to the matching front & rear diff check write up in endwrench. may only show severe torque bind, not minor. ?? THIS IS POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS, BE VERY CAREFUL. (it may be best to have a helper in the car ready to hit the brakes.) jack up both wheels on one side of the car left or right, leave the other side on the ground. parking brake OFF, put the car in neutral and start it. now turn one the wheels by hand if the torque bind is severe enough, locked, the other wheel will turn also.

the don't know if the rear diff uses a washer, does the plug have a head on it, i can't remember. the trans drain plug uses the same crush washer as the engine drain plug. maybe the front diff too. i have some crush washers available if you need them, 5 for 2.50$ plus shipping, ~1.00$. 10 for 5.00$... etc.

when doing the head gaskets on a 2.5 that has over heated, i have concerns about possible damage to the rod and crank bearings causing them to let go soon after the repair. other than just changing the oil, is there a treatment, additive or flush that could be used to help prevent bearing failure?