johnceggleston

i understand how to make the blocks, my guess is they are designed to move the top of the struts to the outside of the car. what is the reason for doing this? i'm new to lifts.

can i tow a 86 5 speed d/r in fwd and neutral with the front wheels on a dolly?? with out any damage? it seems like i should be able to, but i need to be sure. thanks, john

i have 2 pdf files erom a esm which may help. send me a pm with email address and i'll send them along. pm sent.

i couldn't find dual port manifold exhaust gaskets at advance auto so i had to go to the dealer. same for the doughnut after the cats. (96 y pipe, 97 cats & mid pipe). but i would have used them if i could have found them. single port gaskets and the one between the cats, in front of the cats should be available.

you'll need to double check this, but i think the rear shaft sections, the part that attaches to the rear diff, not the part that attaches to the trans, i think they are all the same for similar models. any difference between manual and auto is in the front section with the carrier bearing.

you can also look under the hood where the throttle cable connects to the throttle body. if your car has cruise, there will be a pair of them.

model, year, miles and symptoms?

no egr will throw a code, does that answer your question?

when i first experienced this, i learned that dirty fluid / trans could cause it. when i took the extention housing apart, i assumed it was dirty gummed up duty c valve body or passage way. and maybe is sometimes. but it can also be gummed up sticky clutch plates and grooves worn into the hubs that the plates get hung up on. the way this thing works seems bassackward to me. bad or disconnected the duty c causes binding, but does that send more fluid pressure to the clutch plates or less, more i think. there is no pressure when the car is off, and the rear output shaft is not engaged then, but i can never keep it straight.

the top hose is on the passenger side of the rad and connects to the engine. burping on a hill, nose up will not hurt. but filling and idling the engine with the rad cap off untill it reaches full operating temp, temp guage reads normal and t-stat opens, will also work. once warmed up, if there is an air bubble, it should burp and the level of coolant will drop, fill rad the rest of the way and put on the cap. fill the over flow.

yes, your assessment is correct. more fluid changes may help, the cost of the fluid is all you have to lose, but if it doesn't it will need surgery.

did you look here? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_20/body_equipment_interior/front_seat/ still no assembly part number, but ... almost all legacy seats interchange.

yeah, sometimes when i drink beer i end up seeing 2 of everything too. 4 hands are almost enough. cheaper and more fun than hiring a helper.

i know there are a ton of cleaning products out there and a lot for specific auto items, but one that most of us already have at home, is powdered dishwashing detergent. it has a degreaser built in. a little power, some hot water, shake and soak. add pebbles as needed.

so i got back into it last week and found i only torqued 5 of the 6 water pump bolts, duh!!! i went ahead and pulled it to check the gasket, it looked fine. but since i had bought a new one i decided to replace it any way. i didn't want to have to do it again. i'll save it for another time, maybe. so i put it back together, and as i was starting to install the radiator, i remembered i didn't pull the pin on the tensioner. so back into it i go, yet again. by the way, how tight on the a/c and alt belts? i'm getting pretty good at this now. another 6 or 7 tries and i may get it right. thanks for tall the help.

i'm looking at a '89 gl/dl? fwd auto trans w/ fuel injection and a rebuilt ea82, new bearings, rings, reworked heads and a new fuel pump. the guy only drove it about 500 - 1000 miles after the rebuild when it started having fuel problems and was stalling. that's when he replaced the fuel pump. then he gave up and it's been sitting for over a year? could it be a fuel pressure regulator, do they even have them? i'm strickly new gen so i don't know any thing. suggestions? ideas? thanks john

hey nipper, don't you ever wash your coolant overflow tank?? nice pic, is that an impreza alternator?

www.car-part.com click on it now and then bookmark it.

dumb first timing belt mistakes torqued only 5 of the 6 water pump bolts. it leaked and i had to re- do everything, ugh. (side note: 3/8" sockets were too big for 2 of the bolts , i needed a 1/4" drive socket.) dumb second time mistakes when re-doing it because of the leaking water pump, i started to re-install the radiator, everything else was done, and remembered the tensioner. i didn't tighten the mounting bolts or pull the pin on the tensioner. the pulley and the belt have to be on before you do either of these, and then you are thinking covers so it's easy to forget, apparently. but at least i remembered. i think i better keep my day job.

this is an interferrence engine if the belt or a pulley gives up, or maybe even if it just jumps time, you be doing the heads and replacing valves. be careful, very careful.

the bottom lip has some tabs on it, hinge the top of the air box open and then move the whole thing towards the engine. it should come free. but no big deal to disconnect the maf either.

the sending units are infamous for being inaccurate. my sons 95 legacy sat for a year before we replaced the trans. when we first started it, the guage didn't work at all, now it shows empty and only needs 12 gals. try running a bottle of techron fuel treatment through your next tank of gas, it may help. usually the low fuel light will still be accurate, about 2 gals left. if you figure out your gas mileage and reset your trip odometer you'll know how close to empty you really are. and hopefully the low fuel warning light will come on. if you search for techron here you'll find plenty of threads to read.

but then he'd have to get a cat and a monocle.

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=10371 34$ plus shipping

as a scared rookie, i removed and replaced one plug at a time. disconnect one wire, remove the plug, install the new one and then the new wire. this way if i had a problem i still had the other 3 in good working order, and if i had to drive it to the shop i could. but you won't have to. you can also just do the wires first, one at a time, and see how it drives, just for grins. but then you'll have to wait for the engine cool off to proceed. good luck, even if you have to buy a ratchet extention, you'll save big doing it yourself.