johnceggleston

99 - 00 ej22 only.

i'm pretty sure this vin is for a 98. 95 = S 96 = T 97 = V 98 = W 99 = X 00 = Y the engines will swap.

this vin is differENT THAN THE ONE YOU POSTED UP TOP. BUT LET'S ASSUME THIS MOST RECENT VIN IS ACCURATE. YOU HAVE A 99 SUBaru. the 95 - 97 cluster will not work. you need a 99 cluster. a working 99 cluster. of course there is the possibility the 99 L cluster is different than the 99 outback. which car do you have? which cluster do you have?

info please: the existing 00 speedo does not work? the replacement 00 speedo does not work? do you have a check engine light? if no ''cel'', then it is a loose or bad connection going to the instrument panel. good luck.

i think you have isolated the problem. the TPS is not adjusted correctly. this has caused a trouble code in the auto trans , which has forced it into ''limp mode''. the trans defaults to 3rd gear and does not shift. is your AT Temp light blinking 16 times at start up? correct the TPS issue and you should be good to go.

i'm usually suspicious of ''cure-alls'' but seafoam??????

the intakes will not interchange. they are different. with enough money and time you could probably do it, but there is a better solution. you need a 95 - 97 intake off of an ej22 engine, they have the canister in the front, maybe with EGR???? is your car auto or manual trans??

don't forget EGR. 93 does not have it, does your 97? i THINK, not 100%, but 95 - 98 with auto trans usually do. manual trans usually don't. sounds like you need a 97 - 98 head. maybe 96 if you get both.

what is your vin?

the ford factory battery, and the replacement are / were both 108 month batteries. that's 9 years. and most batteries i see foe sale are either 72 months or 84 months, but i'm sure there are 60 and 96 month versions as well. that's why i say look at the ''$ per month'' cost. 60 months will cost less over all, but maybe more per month.

when buying batteries, think months. batteries are rated bu the number of months they will last. last fall i replaced the factory battery in my 06 ford F350 super duty. it did not have a lot of miles, 75k, but it lasted 9.75 years. i was amazed. the ford replacment cost $125, but it is going to last 9+ years. i probably won't have the truck that long. so do the math, divide the price by the number of months to see the best deal. or just by the cheapest one you can find..

yes, you can do that, but it is much less work to find the actual final drive ratio of your trans. i think they are the same, because i KNOW the 94 lego and the 95 lego are not. the 90 - 94 years are split, 90 - 91 and 92 - 94. i don't know why, but they are. and since a 94 and 95 will not swap, and since a 98 and a 95 will swap, i think a 90 / 98 will swap, as long as both are ej22 engines. do the search..

the trans will bolt up, plug in and operate correctly. but you need to make sure the final drive ratios are the same. do search for TZ102Z2DBA and TZ102ZAAAA, both of them. (the first is an outback trans from 98 the second is an auto from a 95 lego.) only the 95 actually matches your car. but several of the posts that come up will contain either a list or a link to 90 - 94 auto trans final drive ratios. that is what you are looking for. 95 - 99 auto trans legos and imprezas had a 4.11 ratio (ej22 and ej18 engines) outback, GT, LSi and forester had a 4.44 ratio (ej25 engines) 90 - 94 was not as consistent. if you can't find the info that way, just search www.car-part.com and sort by zip code.

a small correction to what larry posted, the coils usually fail front vs. rear, that is 1&2 vs. 3&4. the coil is actually 2 coils, one for the front cylinders and one for the rear. a timing problem will sometimes cause a left vs. right cylinder misfire. after you rule out some of the easy stuff and find no cause for the problem, plugs, wires, loose connections, dirty air filter, etc. consider checking the timing and /or the compression. if the belt jumped it could cause a headaches. plug wires cause more misfires than all other stuff combined. not a scientific fact, just my opinion.

you absolutely need the phase 1 cam and crank sprockets for it to run, unless they happen to be the same. the sprockets MUST match the ECU.

look on the block under the alternator. there should be a casting in the block. ej22 or ej18 or ej25. i take it you did not build your sand rail, you bought it already built.

add 2 ounces of brake fluid to the master cylinder and see if that fixes it. DO NOT add too much. next spring when she has her brake pads replaced the master cylinder could over flow during the process.

as far as i knOW, THE ONLY TIME THEY MADE AN EJ22 TURBO in the USA was 90 - 94, and i don't think they made them all 5 years. if you bought a JDM engine then it could be any year. but as long as it is in fact an ej22 block and haeds, they are all the same. same belt size, same idlers, same water pump? but there could b a ''high endurance'' belt or something, i guess.

the knocking may be an old axle that is going bad since it is stressed by the lift. a replacement axle may fix it.

i use a large paper clip, works great. i have to relocate it about twice a year.

www.car-part.com sort by zip code.

the labot to swap the ring and pinion is not minor. plus, you have to know what you are doing to set the ring gear correctly. you have to make adjustments at the axle stubs on each side of the trans. it is way easier to replace the whole trans. and probably more sure of long term reliability. look for a trans at www.car-part.com sort by zip to see what is close. you can use ANY auto trans 96 - 98 from an ej25 car, outback, forester, GT, or LSi, in that order. (the GT and LSi will throw off the speedo slightly.) you will likely have to search each year separately. or if you are close to VA, i have a factory rebuilt auto trans from a 98 outback. ran fine when crashed. there is a metal rebuilt mileage / date tag on the trans, but i can't read it.

the cam seal of mine that popped out did it at about 40k miles and was installed by a very reputable shop. (not subaru specific but foreign car specific.) this was before i started doing my own work. the problem with comparing subaru seals to after market, unless the seal fails immediately, you may not find fault for 40k miles. and at that point you may not remember the brand used. on my first ej22 swap, i bought a ''cheap'' gasket set off ebay, evergreeen i think. i didn't need the head gaskets, but i got EVERY thing i did need for cheap. i used the seals and they failed at 45k miles. so i either do the job again 15k early, or the seals leak for 2 years until i get to 60k. after i did that swap, but way before the seals started leaking, i read posts about subaru seal quality and decided only suabru in the future. the seals needed for a timing belt job, cam, crank, oil pump o-ring, t-stat gasket and water pump gasket, can be bought at the local dealer for about $37 retail. less if you get them whole sale. ~$30. how much can you save with aftermarket seals. when you are doing preventative maintenance, t-belt job, you are going to spend some money.$150 - $250.?? i can't see saving 10% and risking either engine life or having to redo the labor. it just does not make sense to me.

replace the pcv, replace the seals with seals from a subaru dealer. change the oil? cheap seals do not save you anything. they cost you. i had this happen about 40k miles after a timing belt change. i'm pretty sure i had the seals replaced at the same time, but not 100% sure. ps: some folks say use only a ''subaru'' pcv.

the 251 block should work with the ej25d heads. but tyou need to double check the gasket. there is a head / block combination where a thicker gasket is required. but generally speaking, the head gasket MUST match the block. if the fire ring? on the gasket does not fit the block, it will not seal.