johnceggleston

the 04 outback manual trans , see this link , it has the trans ID# you have listed. TY754VCBCA http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_20/manual_transmission/transmission_assembly/ now see part # 15 in this link, the rear diff for thew same 04 outback 2.5L engine, if you scroll down to the part number you will see that the ratio is listed as 4.11. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_20/train/differential_individual/illustration_2/ THE 04 OUTBACK MANUAL TRANS IS NOT A 3.9 RATIO. do not buy the trans. it does not match.

my understanding it this, outback are slightly taller, longer over all, but forester are longer in the spring area and shorter from the perch to the bottom. this means larger tires with outback struts, and slightly taller stance , ground clearance. and i hear, if you use the forester spring, taller, on the outback strut, you get a stiffer ride and a taller stance yet again, due to the taller spring compressed on the shorter outback spring section, creating less sag due to body weight. i'm not 100% sure this is all accurate, but this is my understanding as of now.

there are only 2 ways i know to confirm the ratio. 1/ pull the drain plug for the diff / trans, and count the teeth on the ring gear with a flash light and some kind of marker / scratch-er. (this assumes the drain plug is under the front diff like the auto trans.) 2/ search for the manual trans used in the year model, trim, at http://opposedforces.com/parts, and once you find the matching trans ID#, look up the corresponding ring and pinion gears. the ratio will be listed. if the trans is a foreign market, it will be much harder to locate. opposed forces only lists US and European markets.

if this is still the case, i would start here. a disconnected axle will eliminate power to the wheels, front in this case, if you have an open differential. replace / reconnect the axle. then you should have power to the front. next, power to the rear. keep at it.

this car does not have a 3.9 ratio. the 04 outback manual trans will have a 4.11 FD ratio. the 04 legacy L, manual trans, might have have a 3.9 ratio, but NOT the outback.

if it is a subaru unit this should help. Subaru Keyless Entry, Security Alarm, Immobilizer Key, Remote Start Systems. Most years and models but the trick to most o them is to have the key in the run position when you install the battery. good luck.

the diff is in the front of the trans. in the auto trans it is a 2 piece set up, bolted together to look like one piece. actually it is a three piece trans with the rear most section controlling / sending power to the rear. before you swap the trans , jack up the left front wheel, start the car and put it in D (HAND BRAKE ON) if the wheel turns it may be your right front axle that is bad. (but there would also have to be a failure with the transfer clutch sending power to the rear.) but still worth a check. power to the rear and power to the front are two different issues. but if there is no power to the rear, and you have a right front axle failure, you are not going any where. the diffs do not fail often, and usually only if they run out of gear oil. do you have a FWD light on the dash? did the rear wheels ''drive'' the car before the grinding. how long have you had the car? how long have you had the car? how well didi it run before this became problem.

what he said. modern belts rarely fail. usually it is another part that has not been replaced in 120 - 180k miles.

any CEL trouble codes? mis-fire / no fire on 3 & 4 is a coil issue, or maybe an injector issue. i have no idea what an injector problem might be. i do not know where you read that but it is not true. hands down the most common cause of a no start after major work is timing. but since you are confident of the timing, i would look else where. besides, a 1&3 , or a 2&4 no fire would be a timing issue. not a 3&4. long before i swapped an ecu, i would have swapped coil, igniter, wires, plugs, whatever. again, i do not know enough to give a good answer, but no spark on 3 & 4 is a coil / igniter issue. just because they appear to fire correctly when tricked, does not mean they are firing correctly when the engine is running. they could be weak. imho.

not a match. it will not work. do not buy it. you can use any auto trans from the following : 96 - 98 outback, 98 forester 96 - 98 GT 96 - 97 LSi in that order. if you use the GT or LSi your speedo will be a bit off. you can NOT use any auto trans from an ej22 car.

the blinking power light indicates there is an electrical problem in the trans, since you have torque bind, it is probably the duty c solenoid which controls power to the rear wheels. the duty c is located in the rear extension housing on the trans, it contains the transfer clutch which controls power to the rear. do a search for ''torque bind, duty c solenoid'' and you will have tons to read. you can remove it and replace it with the car in the drive way on jack stands, probably in a half day. i plan on all day. some of the same work a pulling the trans, drop the exhaust, drop the drive shaft, catch the ATF, but you do not have to lift a 300 pound trans back up into the car. it depends which way you want ot go, easier cheaper fix , replace the duty c, about $100 part, maybe cheaper, and maybe have to do something again later, or long term, hopefully one time fix, replace the trans. of course when installing used parts you never know. the auto trans in these cars are very reliable, and hardy, if maintained, change the fluid, the will go the life of the car. but at 300k, how much life is left? one the on hand a used trans will have fewer miles, but you will not know the service history. what it the service history of your trans. by the way, my son drove my 95 legacy L sedan for over 40k miles, 5 years in college, with the rear drive shaft removed, because of binding. i always meant to fix it but never did. he just drove it. i sold it as FWD. and the girl was glad to have it. if you are looking for a parts car, just keep looking for the one you really need. like a bargain, there will always be another one to come along. but if you are in a hurry, then buy what ever you want and go for it.

under the hood, passenger side near the fire wall.

ok, if a front wheel will not turn when off the ground, in gear, the trans is probably crap. (NOTE: make sure the FWD fuse is in place and the hand brake is on, when you do this test.) if the wheel does turn, repeate the test on the other side. one front wheel in the air. if neither wheel will turn when it is in the air, the trans is carp buy a used trans. if one does and one does not, check the axle on the ''does not '' side.

auto or manual?

depending on what is wrong with you 01 engine, you can probably use the impreza block with your heads and intake. if you can pull an engine, you can move the heads and do the head gaskets. make sure you use the intake, cam and crank sprockets from your 01 engine. these need to match your computer. and no, swapping the computer will not work since the computer needs to match the wiring harness in the car. just use the 01 stuff on the 02 block and you will be fine.

oil is a much bigger concern than coolant. spin the engine over with the starter while the injectors are unplugged. this will circulate the oil and keep it from starting. the t-stat will not open until the engine reaches full temp. so even if there is coolant in the block it will not be circulating. once at operating temp the t-stat will open and coolant will flow. top it off as needed.

yes it will work. worse for fuel economy, more engine rotations per mile higher RPM at 60mph. better for ''quick off the line'', faster acceleration. why not just fix the transfer clutch. do you have a blinking light on the dash at start up? the power light i think? this could indicate a bad duty C solenoid. are all the tires the same: make, model size, tread pattern, tread depth, inflation? have you changed the trans fluid lately? all 3 of these thing can cause binding. why are you attached to the 97 GT trans? is it free? if so instead of swapping the whole thing, just swap in the rear extension housing with the entire trans fer clutch. it is probably less work than a trans swap. or just buy a matching trans at www.car-part.com

i thought the sensor went into a hole in the knuckle housing, the part the bearing is pressed into, the part in the above pic that does not have a number, between 10 and 7. i guess the sensor would also have to go through the backing plate, but i thought the housing had a hole as well, almost positive. am i remembering this wrong? http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_8/brake_system/antilock_brake_system/illustration_5/ .

check the timing, 2 & 4 are both on the driver side. has the car been running like this since the head gaskets were done? or is this a new development.?

if the wiring connectors are the same it will plug in and run, but the final drive ratios are different, the 97 GT auto has a 4.44 ratio, the 90 lego has a 4.11 ratio. a 90 - 91 legacy trans will fit, or 95 - 98 legacy with a 2.2L engine would work, L, LS, brighton or a 93 - 98 impreza with a 2.2, or 1.8L engine. you can not use an auto trans from a 2.5 L car. you can not use an auto trans from 99+ you can not use an auto trans from 92 - 94

if it is rod knock, you may as well drive it till it stops. you can't save it. but what if it is tensioner noise? not un common on the 98+ engines. (note: no sound on this computer, so i did not listen)

sorry about the spindle wording. i use that term because that is what they are called on car-part.com. you can find the part by using a different name, but you find more of them by searching for a spndle. i thought the term knuckle was only used for the fronts, because they hinged, turned. but i don't know.

first, the ABS sensor does NOT mount in the backing plate on a subaru. at least not in the 90s. neither does the tone ring. it mounts in the spindle / hub assembly housing. second, it is more labor to swap the backing plate than it is to swap the spindle / hub assembly assembly. at least it is on a 90s suabru. so no advantage there .

ok, so it is a 95 ej22, that is better. you do not need the y-pipe. the easy solution is to swap the 90 intake onto the 96 engine , and plug the hole in the rear of the driver side head. i don't know the thread size but i do remember reading that it is not weird.

the tire size difference is not huge, but it could be right at .26" if you are running stock tires and they are new. and as the tire wears down, like now, the tread difference becomes a larger percentage. this puts it is on the outer edge of what is acceptable, all tires within 1/4 inch of circumference. swap the front and rear tires on one side of the car. this puts one big one and one small one on the front, and one of each on the rear. this should help even out the tire size difference. if tire size is playing a part, it could be that binding does not start until the fluid heats up on the hiway run. and since the tire size difference is minor, the binding is minor? and only shows up after a drive. driving around town may not heat it up enough to cause noticeable binding. if the front and rear diff ratios were different, the car would bind up so bad it would not move, and it would do it fairly quickly, as soon as the viscous fluid heated up. swap front to rear on one side of the car and see if it improves. are all 4 tires inflated the same? i do not know a whole lot about the manual trans, but it was my understanding that when they went bad and started binding they did it all the time. this leads me to believe that the tires size is playing a part. and that the longer you drive it the hotter the fluid gets, and the more binding you have. of course the center diff could be going out as well. good luck.