johnceggleston

on my engine that ground cable is bolted on one of the starter bolts, double check to make sure both are still there, one bolt, one nut on a stud i think.

because of my very limited knowledge, i would never base the correct fluid level on a cold trans; everyone knows you check it when it's hot. but, it can be difficult to read when hot. so i would always check the fluid level when cold after a drain and refill, just ot see if i'm in the right ball park. then fine tune after a test drive with the fluid hot. there are some tricks to reading the dip stick when hot if you want to search for them.

what color was the fluid you drained?? where did you pour in the new fluid, passenger or driver side??

what color was the fluid you drained? where did you pour in the new fluid? passenger or driver side?

check to make sure none of the pins are bent.

have a couple of your friends call and offer him 400 - 600$, just to warm him up. make sure he has your number handy, at some point some one will offer him 900 and he'll take that because the cash is in his face.?!?!

as you know, 97 is when the ej22 went interferrence, maybe that was the month ( a little early for 97 but...) and they made other changes as well like the tensioner. but i still thought the kits would be the same.

ok, dumb question, how do you remove the motor.? when mine went bad in my obw i couldn't figure it out. is there a trick?

brake fluid sensor never occurred to me, i just thought it was cable related. and i do have rear disc brakes, but the hand brake is drum of course. sounds like it's time to check out the brakes, wish it were warmer. thanks

do your research, i think you'll need a 00 - 04 engine, some one else should know. have you priced them yet? www.car-part.com once you get the outback working, dangle it in front of the guy you sold Izzy to and trade.

for about a month, when it's below freezing, mid 20s, the dash brake indicator light stays on when i release the hand brake. this is first thing in the morning, later in the day after driving the car the light is off. ii can't feel or here the brakes dragging, but who knows. i first thought it was freezing water related but now i'm thinking cable lubrication. any suggestions? i guess i should jack it up when cold and turn the wheels by hand to check for dragging. is there anything else to consider? i did have the 'no brakes' when cold the other morning but it was 14* then and i was looking for it. thanks, john

probably not this simple, but i bought a 97 outback with no sound... someone had ripped out the whatever from under the passenger seat. i pulled the radio and dis connected the radio harness from the plug going to the missing equipment and plugged it back into the factory speaker wiring harness, works great. after thought, if they did rip out from under the drivers seat, they may have disconnected the heater connection there.

what if they start crying, can i give hints then??

hint http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=778733&postcount=9

so when you are negotiating with a car salesman, does it strengthen or weaken your position to catch them in a lie? do they then come clean and give a great deal, or tell another lie to cover their rump roast and talk delivery prep and undercoating?

you can put the fuse in the FWD fuse holder to compare your current driving conditions to known FWD conditions. if it is in fwd all the time after sitting a year, i would suspect fluid. change the ATF and drive it, maybe it will free up. you can try unplugging the wiring connector to the trans which will put you in limp mode, 3rd gear only and 'locked ' in 4WD, to see if the rears will work at all, but if it's gummed up, that may not tell you anything.

i've got just the piece of tape, it's on my old vcr clock.

so if you have the rear drive train and there is no fuse in the FWD holder, then try unplugging the wire harness to the trans, (passenger side near the fire wall down on the bell housing, one of the 2. this will force the trans into limp mode, you will only have 3rd gear and it will be 'locked' in 4WD which will give you torque bind in turns. if not , you'll need repairs to get AWD working.

there's also the lift the car up, drop the engine cross member, rack, wheels, struts?, with trans, down method. but i can't figure how to do it unless you have a ceiling lift / crane. a good size engine hoist will do the work, but the legs are always in the way.

simplier yet, unplug the wiring harnees going to the trans. you should then be stuck in 3rd gear and 4WD. it it works then look at cutting the RIGHT wire. if you don't have 4WD with the harness unplugged, you never will unless you make some repairs. right?

what's the product???

but will be fine for 2 yrs?? and then leak? i thought thet leaked right away.

i may have some thing to do with when the article was written.

you're lucky, mine 97 OBW 127k quiets down but it keeps right on slappin'. it's been slappin for 30k since i bought it, hopefully another 130k.

i'm not as familiar with rears as i am with fronts, but ..... you need to get a haynes manual from the auto parts store. otherwise you are going to make some mistakes waiting on answers from the board. i don't think you have to remove the axle nut to pull the rear drum. you don't on the front, but it's been a while since i did rear drum brakes. usually if the rear shoes are not too tight, the rear drum will pull off after you have removed the wheel. so i could be wrong. again i haven't done rear drum brakes on a subaru, and i still think you need a manual, 15$. it's worth the money, and you'll understand more when asking questions and getting answers here. let us know how it goes.