johnceggleston

but we digress, rumor has it if you elivate the front of your car when draining the atf you will get slightly more fluid out. but you will still need to do it multiple times. i've already replaced one trans because i ran it low on fluid, i'm not willing to risk that again. i'll drain and fill with the engine OFF. or pay a shop.

it was a 96 legacy sedan 2.2L w/ 133k miles and i swap in a rear extention housing from a bad trans. i included a new duty c and had the luxury of inspecting the transfer clutch before the swap and it looked ok to me. labor was about 285$ which i thought was high. but cheaper than dealer repair or replacement trans. the duty c was about 75$ on line, be sure to get 2 valve body gaskets if you order it yourself. so i spent about 360$ on the fix. runs great, now with another 15k miles on it.

the flashes means there was an electrical problem with the trans the last time it was driven. my duty c was intermittent for several years before ultimate failure. i removed the rear section of the drive shaft until i could make repairs. what year & miles is your trans. the usual first fix is changing the trans fluid, which can not hurt. but if you have the flashing light it may not help, with an electrical problem.

according to nipper's recently found parts site, they are different, but i don't know how. it would make sense that they are taller for the taller outback strut. does it make sense that this would give the outback strut a longer travel distance?? i guess they could be the same size but the outback is designed for a heavier car, but the difference in weight is only 500lbs or so?? http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20383AC141/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20383AC200/ gt is different as well http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20383AC350/ check out how many models use the same right rear strut. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20363AC000/ .

95 -99 all the instrument clusters are the same. if you find one with mileage close to yours, just swap the whole thing and don't mess with the tach it self. save the old for a spare.

first let me say i do not have very much hands on experience on axles. but... from the picture provided by the original poster, the axles, old and new, APPEAR to be the same and he stated they had the same 'range of motion'. but more interesting, i think i remember, he stated he tried to re-install the old axle and had the same problem as with the new. this leads me to believe that it has to do with the configuration or the alignment during the install. i liked the idea putting nthe weight of the car on the wheel and then going for the trans hookup.

lmao :banana::banana: seafoam :banana::banana:

a simple glance at the axle attachment point on the trans will tell you if it is there or not. if you have a splined shaft sticking out of the trans case, you have the #14 stub shaft.

if he takes a pic of the stub in the trans will you believe that it is there and you are the only who can not see it. it is not in the axle he took off and i don't think he over looked it when he was cleaning up his tools, especially considering how much you have talked about it. if it is not there, where did it go? it was there when he drove into the garage and took the axle off. so unless the mice ate it, or it rolled across the floor and under the work bench after he removed the axle, it is there. and i can see it in the picture. BUT, since i'm not there i could be wrong, but i'm not the only one.

ok, it's the same axle. this means you are doing something a little wrong. i think my approach would be to loosen the axle nut, slide the splined end out of the hub enough to get it attached on the trans end. then put the outer end completely back together except the axle nut. at some point the correct conditions should occur so you can start the nut on the threads. of course this is just an idea that i haven't tried. but if the axle has any chance of fitting correctly, it should be with everthing bolted together as it should be. either this or you just need to force it.

oem idlers are pricey, but if the off brands fail it doesn't matter how cheap they were. do a search for 'timing belt' and you'll get more info.

i assume you are sure it is the right axle. perhaps the boot was clamped on the shaft in the wrong place making it look like it's fully extended when it's not. how much will it compress, more or less than the old one? compare side by side. where did you get the axle? can you exchange it?

there are several parts dealers on line, www.subarupartsforyou.com https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html are 2 subaru parts dealers. some buy on ebay, some only buy oem. as for replacing parts, you need to weigh the cost of the parts now, your money, and the labor to do the job again later. assuming you get a warning the parts going bad. if the waterpump, tentioner or idlers go bad on the hiway, it will cause bent valves. which parts do you think will make it to the 200k, next?, belt change and is it worth the risk? how long do you plan on keeping the car?

it's worse if you have to back up in the morining to turn around. as you drive through your exhaust the defrost sucks it right in. i usually open left or right side windows for a few seconds to change the air once i get moving.

by the way crash321, yours is the best avatar i've seen in a long time. :banana::banana: do you have to cook them??

i've never heard anyone ask this before. pulleys should be easy to come by. try removing one belt at a time to see if the noise goes away. maybe have a replacement ready to go in. i have heard that the ac pulley bearing (not the one on the compressor, but it can go bad too and is also replaceable) can go bad and that they are replaceable, but probably easier to replace the whole thing.

for most lsd diffs, you jack up both rear wheels and turn one wheel by hand. if both wheels turn the same direction it's limited slip. if they turn in different directions then it's an open diff. this may not work on a viscous lsd. in those, the viscous fluid needs to heat up before it will limit slipping. any one else know about a vlsd?

i'm pretty sure they are the same. i've swapped them before. there is a difference between FWD and AWD, but they both will fit. i think the FWD axle has a thicker shaft. if the manufacturer used a different part number due to some slight modification the parts house may not know they are the same. check out the new parts site for cross reference. http://opposedforces.com/parts/

there's one for manual trans search for 'trannychart' http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.pdf

when you look for a part that's specific to one model like an outback strut, it does a good job. but when you look for a part used on several models, like a legacy strut, the cross reference is amazing, absolutely great.

i guess you'd have to pull the starter to check the contacts, and at that point you may as well replace them. when my 97obw occasionally did this, i installed a new relay at the starter. apparently there wasn't enough juice coming from the ignition relay(?) to engage the solenoid but when the new relay was mounted at the starter, there was enough juice to activate the new relay. the new relay switches on a new fused power feed to the solenoid which then has all the power it needs to activate. and this solved my problem. but if your solenoid is clicking, your problem is probably different. most of the time, the contact replacement is the repair choice in this situation. but with a one year old starter........

rarely is this a cat problem, especially at 66k miles. usually it's a front o2 sensor problem, although a little early at 66k. the replacement HAS to be a subaru part. you can order it on line from one of the dealers who sell for a little less. and it's not too hard to do yourself. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

remove the belt that drives the alternator.

you probably know, but don't forget the new screws for the seperator plate. the ones from the plastic plate won't work.

amps is the rate of electricity used, disconnect the draining component, use less electricity, amps will decrease.