johnceggleston

was it by chance a turbo?

the axles will definatly work and the rear diff should work as long as the car is a 2.2L engine. whats the par number for the trans.?

95 used a different o2 sensor i think, 2 of them , front and rear were the same. you need the o2 sensor that matches your ECU, so unless you changed the computer as well as the engine, you need the one for the 97-98. when buying parts, never mention the 95 2.2L engine, unless you are buying engine parts. you'll just confuse the parts guy.

www.subarupartsforyou.com engine parts, sensor o2 = 22690AA290

gary's right, very hesitant. but having said that, i have seen no evidence of a 3.9 in an auto legacy, manuals only. all auto legacys up thru 95MY have a 4.11. when you search for 93 impreza differentials at car-part.com, they give you 90 - 94 legacy, loyale, and impreza 3.9 ratio. they do not specify auto vs. manual. because of the lighter car and the 1.8L engine in the impreza and loyale, my guess would be that your does not mathc the legacy trans. impreza 93 l wagon, TZ102ZX3AA (94 as well) legacy 92 l wagon, TZ102ZA2AA the TZ102 is the same, this is the trans type they used it until 98 or 99. the double AA on the end is the same, in legacy this means leg "L", CA = GT, BA = outback. so my guess is it means the equivilant in imprezas, i don't even know what that would be. i do know that at least some impreza outback sports had the BA on the end. the X3 and A2 are the issue. when they started making the 4.44 final drive for the 2.5L cars the A went to a 2, so if there is a final drive difference this could be the indicator. typically the 3rd to last character progressed upward most model years. one year the legacy outback was a ABA the next year it was a CBA and then a DBA. i searched car-part.com and : TZ102ZA3DA = 95 impreza 2.2L auto w/ 4.11 ratio. i think this means no match. TZ102ZA1AA = 94 leg auto non-turbo. they return 92 - 94 all together. TZ102ZA1AA = 91 leg auto non-turbo, 90 - 91 were lumped together. one of these may be wrong. i couldn't find a legacy .......TZ102ZA2AA or a part number for early 90s leg auto w/turbo. i guess your leg trans could be a turbo?????? i hope this helps.

legacy L , LSi and GT each came with different size wheels, but the diameter of the tires were very ,very close. so the GT has a 16' wheel, but the over all tire size is the same as the L and LSi. you can put GT tires on an L with no problems, no adjustments. the reason you can't put L wheels on a GT is the the 14" steel wheels will not clear the brakes. the same is true for outbacks. you can put outback wheels on a L, with out any lifting, if you use 205 tires with a smaller aspect ratio. so the diameter is close to that of the leg L. the width is not the isue, it's the height. there is a tire size calculator by miata that will help.

there's a procedure for checking to see if front and rear diffs match. BE VERY CAREFUL. put one side of the car on jack stands. (2 wheels off the ground) unplug the wire harness to the trans. (locks the wheels in 4WD) start the car and put it in neutral. (wheels should spin freely) mark the bottom of the front and rear wheels with tape or chalk. turn either the front or rear wheels by hand several turns. the tape mark should end up in the same position on both wheels. if they don't, the differentials do not match. don't forget to plug in the wiring harness after you put the car back on the ground.

sually there is a part number on the bell housing at the starter. a TZ102.... number? a dealer, if no one else, can tell you what it came out of.

on a side note, the 97 gt auto has the same engine and trans as the outback, but it is quicker and sportier. they accomplish this with the smaller legacy L size tires. you might consider trying this before spending a lot of money on the trans swap. unless the manual is what you want any way. the auto with smaller tires will not be the same as the manual with regular tires, but there will be a difference. one of the reasons there is not a large difference in gas mileage between the legacy 2.2L and the outback 2.5L, even though there is a different final drive ratio, is because, the tire sizes are different, and they compensate for that ratio change. (about 8% i think)

glad you found what you need. but i wouldn't spend money on both. either get the used shaft or have yours repaired, doing both will be wasteful. these don't go bad very often. if you want some insurance, save your bad one, un-repaired, you can always spend 70$ to have it repaired if you need it. my 0.02 worth.

should bolt right in, no problem. the only possible is the front y-pipe. the exhaust ports may be different. the 95 is dual port exhaust, i do can't remember what the 97-98 2.2L is. if different, you'll need the y-pipe. some one else will know. the trans have the same final drive ratio, 4.11, it's a perfect match.

this works, no problem.

FWIW, on an auto trans if you remove the front section of shaft, the AT fluid will run out. i don't know if manuals are the same. put the shaft back in? borrow another outback to pull it. i searched on car-part.com and was surprised at how few were available. i guess they don't go bad very often. sorry for your trouble and the hijack.

thanks, that's a difference i can understand.

by lower do you mean that the drive hangs down below the car more or what.??

this does not make sense. it may be correct, but it does not make sense. the only difference in the outback auto and the legacy L auto is the ring gear on the front diff, the housings are the same. the obw is not significantly longer than the leg L, just slightly different bumper size. and poeple have swapped 4.44 (outback) trans with rear diff into legacy L (4.11) cars and vice versa. the 4.11 rear diff in the leg L auto goes in the outback manual, so the rear diffs are the same length. so where's the difference???

i don't know where you are going to store this engine, but critters LOVE the leftover anti freeze. you might rinse it off. i wouldn't cover it or wrap it up, that just makes the critters think it's a great new place for acorn storage. i used foil backed hvac tape to close all of the openings and hose ends, which was very sticky and took some time to clean off but it sealed well. that tape is expensive, but i had it already. a heavy tin foil might work just as well. critters could still eat it but why would they.

if you push the key all the way in with a thin screwdriver you may be able to turn it. these may help http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=642438&postcount=6 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=721115&postcount=6 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=397614&postcount=8 read the links for more info. the upper right corner of each has a link the the complete thread. removing the broken key is going to be difficult, i think, even after you remove the keyway from the cylinder or the whole ignition assembly from the column. turning it sideways down may help, but you still have to grab the key and pull it out. i don't think it will just fall out, but maybe. locksmiths must do this all the time, in the car?. if you want to do this yourself, remove the plastic surrounding the ignition switch. then if you can remove just the keyway from the cylinder that will be easiest, but the key has to turn a little to do this. removing the whole assembly is a pain because the bolts do not have hex heads they are round dome shaped things with nothing to grab on to. call a locksmith and find out the cost before you disassemble this thing. you may get into it and find you still need a locksmith. it may be easy for him. years ago i locked my keys in my datsun truck at the car wash with the engine running. i called the locksmith, he pick the door lock almost faster than i could unlock it with a key. he charged me 21$, 1$ for unlocking it, 20$ for being stupid. this was before 1985. i'm smarter now.

there's a prety good chance you can turn the ignition with a screwdriver or the like with the broken part of the key in the keyway. if so drive to a locksmith, ideally one who knows subarus. they can remove the keyway pretty easily with the key in it. and then remove the key and remake. if you can't get the ignition to turn, then maybe an onsite service call from a locksmith. that will probably be expensive. if you want info on removing the whole ignition assembly, let me know or do a search. it's not too bad, but lots more work than removing the ignition keyway with the key in it. you can also search for info to do that. but i think a lock smith can do it in 10 - 15 min. or less. (there's a pin on the back side of the keyway you press in when the key is turned. you have to remove the plastic, a pain, on the steering column to see it. a lock smith can probably do it with the right tool and not remove the plastic.) then extract the key and remake.

slow down, there are lots and lots of used drive shafts around and you may only need the front section with the carrier bearing. ask here : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=37 and look here: www.car-part.com also a good drive shaft shop can replace your universals for much less than a new shaft. good luck.

cars relatively close to you, 95 - 98 subaru, 2500 or less. there are lots of others, which i excluded , with more miles, more rust, cost more money, farther away, older, need repairs. www.crazedlist.org you wil need the firefox web browser with the 'web developer' 'add on' to do an area wide search. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/847381202.html http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/844602584.html http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/cto/839632972.html http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/845427629.html rust good luck, john

97 outback auto...........27031AC060 97 outback 5spd...........27031AC070 97 legacy auto...........27031AC130 97 legacy 5spd...........27031AC140 i can't believe legacy and outback are different, but apparently they are. i'm also surprised that manual and auto are different, but that at least makes sense, the trans are different. there have been no reports of drive shaft problems when swapping a outback trans into a legacy, or vice versa. so maybe the difference is in weight or the thickness of the steel. and some have changed auto trans for manual. maybe one ofthem will chime in.

i think he needs the 4eat out of a 2.2L legacy, not 2.5L car. the 2.5L engine wasn't available in the us in 95MY. his trans # is TZ102ZAAAA, he can use any 2.2L trans 95 to 98. as long as it has 4 letters on the end, not a 2 and 3 letters, the final drive will match his 4.11 rear diff. but you can increase the number of possible trans from which to pick, by getting the matching rear diff with it. (this would include ones ending with a 2 and 3 letters) the final drive may be different, but the front and rear diffs will match. the ones with a 2 and 3 letters have a 1:4.44 final drive ratio. these are in all 2.5L cars 96 - 98 and beyond (?).

the rust would be a deal breaker for me, but i'm sure others in the northeast would vote differently. i'd rather buy a good body with a bad engine for 500 - 1000$ and then repair or swap in the engine i wanted 900 - 1500$.

as i understand it, back in the mid 90s california required higher emmision standards and longer timing belt intervals. (what they actually required may be different but the t-belt intervals was a result.) the 95MY 2.2L NON-california car had a 60k interval, the california car had a 105k interval. at some point in the US they changed all of the intervals to 105k. the 60k belt actually cost more and it's in stock at my local auto zone, you have to order the 105k belt which is cheaper. go figure.