johnceggleston

the ej22 became interferrence in 97.they made a few changes to squeeze more power out of it. and if i read and remember correctly, it was motivated in part because higher emmision standards zap engine power, so they tweek the engine design so not to take a step backwards in over all power.

is the battery good?

good work!!!

ok, i'm not an expert, but the last time some one talked about the right timing marks and TDC, after about 669 posts, he finally figured out that he used the wrong marks on the cam sprockets. it's not the ARROWS, it's the tiny little cut line on the edge of the sprocket, usually has some paint daubs asociated with it. double check the timing marks. and if that is what you used, i apologize for suggesting you got it wrong. but double check all 5 timing marks.

this sounds like the front differential vent tube. i don't think the there is an over flow for the ATF. (i thought that was a sealed system.) the ATF dip stick is on the driver side near the firewall. the dip stick for the front dif in on the passenger side down low. which one did you put the ATF in ? i don't remember what you started out doing, but is there a chance you damaged the seal betwen the trans and the front diff? i don't see how a t-belt job could do that.

edit, delete, error.

the limiting factor is not the hatch, it's the strut towers just behinf the seats. i used to do remodleing work out of my 90 nissan pick up with a tool box and a truck cap which was always full of tools. so i used to carry plywood on top of the tool box with the tail gate in the closed position. you could do something similar using a board long enough to reach from window to window in the rear resting on the plastic window trim. then you could lay the plywood on the top of the rear seats (please protect from damage) and this new support. i wouldn't carry more than a couple of sheets, but it would ride pretty flat. you could even pull down the hatch until it hit the plywood and then tie it off to help hold it in. just don't slam on the brakes, or it will become a real pain in the neck.

thats a good point, i had forgotten about the speedo drive gear. and that might make sense when comparing a legacy L to an outback of the same year since the trans are different. but a 97 GT has legacy size tires and a 97 outback has larger tires, the trans are the same, identical. the only difference is the TCU.

the duty c can be ordred on line with 2 gaskets for less than 100$. (75 - 90?) cluthc plates are about another 100 - 120$. labor 3- 4 hours. it probably should be less but thats what i was charged. i think the book time to remove & replace the trans is 3.5 hr. this should not be more.

a torch and a little solder will fix that, no problem.

LMAO.

i love it when you talk smart.......

the subaru oem that i've seen said denso i think. is that the same as ND?

for 95 - 99 legacy / outbacks i think youcan swap the TCU to get the right sped after you put on outback tires. i have'nt tried it yet but the TCU is the brain for the trans so i think it also computes the speed. this and the wheels are the only parts that are different between the outback and the GT any one ever tried this?? any chance this is right?

i'd talk to the junk yard and try to get them to give you another one for free!! or very very cheap. the second worst thing that can hapen is they say NO. the worst that can happen is they sell you another bad trans. look for a 95 2.2L A/T engine for your impreza.

was it a subaru sensor or aftermarket.?

first, i'm glad she is ok. it's nice having a parts car, but normally i would say don't bother unless you have a specific need right now. some wives get a little upset with junkers sitting around. also what are the chances you wil need a engine or a trans in the near future? you probably wouldn't be driving a subaru if you thought it was going to fail at 150k. i bought a wrecked 96 leg for the trans in 06 and just now am i getting around to using the engine. i bought a 97 GT for cheap with bad head gaskets. on the other hand, you have young? drivers in the house. you may need all the parts you can get. i'd look for a car with bad engine or trans swap in the good parts and let the kid drive that. but it all depends on the price. you might rather spend the money on subaru stock.

it depends on how you remove the axle. if you do not remove the bolts to the strut, or if you mark the position of the upper stru bolt before you remove it, then you do not have to re-align. if you remove the 2 strut bolts and don't re-install EXACTLY the way they were, you have to re-alaign. search and you'll find several good write ups.

the sons of *itches took my spare trans for my GT, a complete exhaust system from my 96 2.2L donor car, I NEED THE Y-PIPE!! plus my floor jack, 4 jack stands a subaru car jack and a 28 ft. extention lader. probably some other stuff i haven't noticed yet. any one have a SINGLE PORT Y-PIPE for a 96 ej22 i can buy? i need it for my 2.2L swap. what other years will fit, if any? thanks for any help, john

+++what he said. it's called the 'virgin switch', and since this was your first time, you now know why. welcome to the party!!!

it would be a fair amount of work just to rule out the drive shaft carrier bearing but you could put in the FWD fuse and remove the rear section of drive shaft. this would leave only the wheel bearings and the diff turning.

usually the interchange software at car-part will bring up other matching years, it may not bring up impreza if you are searching forester. buti'm sure there are some other years and models that will work. i just don't know what they are. example : legacy got the new auto trans in 99/00, but impreza got them the year before, i think. i bet a 00 leg will drop right in, just a guess.

solw down, STOP!you do not know what you are talking about!! what are you talking about? please explain, show a picture or two. do you have a haynes repair manual for your car? if not, go get one. all subaru trans 95 - 99 and beyond use the same axles. what are you talking about.? spend all day tomorrow searching and reading this site for information on trans swaps. especially the part about 'seating" the torque converter. you'll save yourself a lot of trouble and you won't waste your money on parts you don't need, and you'll avoid mistakes that will cost you money. and your blood pressure will be much lower and healthier. use the search buton at the top of this page.

i would agree, let us know what you learn.

how much experience do these guys have with subarus? are they a trans shop or general auto shop? if a trans shop they may have "tried to fix it" without the trans swap just to show they were smarter than you. did the same shop install the new duty c 3 months ago? i had a trans swap done, no reverse, and the shop owner said i had no AWD after the swap. but i had put the fuse in hoping it might make a difference with reverse and forgotten about it. removed the fuse and off i went!!! having seen the inside of the extention housing it's hard to imagine how parts would/could be left out, but i guess it's possible.... my guess is the fuse. especially if they are not familiar with subarus. they may think the fuse is required. they may think FWD means 4WD, not front wheel drive.