johnceggleston

i don't relly know, generally it is used to diagnosis a problem or if you have a flat and need to mount the spare. generally the failure mode of the transfer cluutch is to be 4WD locked. (just like a 4WD pickup with front hubs locked). if there is no power to the rear wheels either the duty c is being powered all the time, the fuse, or there is something mechanically wrong in the extention housing, parts missing. are you sure they put on the 'good' extention housing.? did they take it apart at all to examine it.? did they 'move' your new parts from th bad trans, to the good trans.?

the most obvious is the fuse in the FWD fuse holder, under the hood, passenger side near the fire wall. fuse in = FWD, fuse out = AWD.

ok, i'm embarrassed, i mistook this thread as one by another recent trans issue thread. my mistake, my appologies. to greenleg, it sound like you have torque bind. if this is theonlt problem with your trans, the dealer can fix it for 900 - 1000$. if you get a used extention housing from a junk yard, it can be done for about 500$ plus thecost of the part. or you and get all new parts, duty c plus transfer clutch plates for about 200$ and either do it yourself, or pay someone about 500 - 600$ to do it. does the binding go away when you install the FWD fuse, passenger side ubder the hood near the fire wall. john

check backin after nthe tranny swap. if you still have a problem worry about it then.

90 lrgacy parts http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91145#post756570

the best advice i heard was too measure what you drain and add that amount. it's a pain to do unless you mark an empty jug in 1 qt increments before you pour the old into it. reusing wiper fluid bottles works ok, but they are only a gallon. liquid laundry detergent bottles are great, espesially the really big ones with the push button spouts. they hold a couple of gallons and they don't decrapitate over the winter if it sits around for a while.

ok, i'm a dummy, sort of. i have various socket sets , some sae some metric, none very expensive. the spark plug sockets in the older, sae sets were to big, but they also didn't fit the new spark plugs, i didn't even check that yesterday. the plug socket from my cheaper set does in fact fit both the plugs and the hole they are mounted in. i knew i'd done it before. on a side note, think i'm going to assemble a set of sockets that are actually used on subarus, and dump the rest (4 - 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 16, etc.) into a box that i keep in the shed. i have 3 metric socket sets, 1/4", 1/2", and then a 1/4" with a few 3/8" pieces. and yet i still only have one 14mm socket and i had to buy that one seperate. apparently 14mm is too big for 1/4" drive and it didn't come with my 1/2" set, go figure. oh yeah, if any one cares, you need a deep well 14 mm for the exhaust to head bolts, you can do it with a short socket, but it would be a lot easier with a deep , 6 point socket.

i'm in the process of swapping in a 96 ej22 into my 97 GT wagon A/T, 142k miles, bad head gaskets. and i have found one torn outer CV boot, one torn steering rack boot, both on the driver side. i have 2 known good front axles with bad boots, inner i think, and a good rack from the same car as the engine. my inclination is to put new boots on the spare axle (maybe both) and swap it and the spare rack into the 97GT. seems like the replacement boot kits are 25$, how much for a mwe axle delivered? i'm now servicing 3 subarus, 95 L w/190k, 97 obw w/125k +original headgaskets, and 97 GT w/142k, i probably should send one of my spare axles off and and have a mwe ready for a future failure.

all of the spark plug, deep well, sockets (most if not all from various cheap socket sets collected over the years,) are too fat to fit into the hole. any special bran needed? i remember doing my plugs before but i don't know what socket i used. i think it's a 17mm. thanks, john

maybe the oil pump o-ring is leaking? the crank wobble was the symptom before my crank pulley failure. mine was caused by improper torque on the bolt holding it on. even if the key way is slightly boogered, i would think the pulley would still spin true unless the bolt was loose. it's just what happened to me. hopefully not you.

you mean there WERE 80's ? on a side note: my dad had heart surgery and somewhere along the way he lost some of his memory. brain still worked, he just could'nt remember some stuff. when i re-introduced him to my current wife, he asked, what happen to ruth (my first wife). i told him it would have been better if he had forgotten the marriage instead of the divorce. now that would be some good medicine, take a pill and forget your first wife.

please coment on bleeding your brakes after changing the calipers.

i unscrewed the torx screw and removed the clamp piece that holds the ball. i found a broken piece of 'spring' metal designed to keep pressure on the ball. i threw that away and stuck in a piece of folded paper. it may take a couple of trys to get the right tension. it doesn't take much. or you can but a replacement mirror.

i just picked up a kit from advance auto. basically the same with 2 differences, no polishing tool and therefore no directions for using a drill, and the polishing compound and sealer come in foil pouches, one use. it was 19.99. seemed high for sand paper and stuff, but i had no idea hw to do it so that's worth somthing. they stress correct application of the sealer, 2 coats.

note: since this is a 95 outback, it's a 2.2L engine. how many miles, any other symptoms, what is the service history of the car, ever put stop leak in the radiator???? did you ever get the heat & AC to work? do the radiator coling fans come on?

if you are familiar with how the car drives and handles, you will be able to notice the difference with the fuse in. especially changing lanes on the hiway at speed. with the fues in it feels like a front wheel drive car, which it is. even if you don't drive the car that much, you should be able to tell a difference with the fuse in when you drive it. my vote is for low power steering fluid.

to the best of my knowledge, there was not a trans made by subaru in the 90's starting with TZ102Z1.... but then i have only studied legacy trans, not impreza or forester. stick with TZ102Z2.....

NO, the ones in red above will NOT fit your car unless you get the matching rear differential with it. the trans that will fit your car must have a 2 after the second Z, like this: TZ102Z2xxx. this '2' means it has the 4.44 final drive ratio like your 96 GT a/t. all 96 - 98 2.2L w/ a/t have a 4.11 final drive, you need the 4.44 final drive ratio.

changing this thing out is not hard, but if you haveno experience, you might consider buying the subaru part, online, and paying a local garage to put it in. it should onlt cost about 40 or 50$ to have it put in.

kirbykirb, your mail box is full, delete some.

IIRC, the 22mm is the same as 7/8 inch. this may be easier to find. i think i changed mine with out a 22mm, so i would have uesd my 7/8 - 3/4 open wrench .

elite has a used trans for 499$. ace and magic each have one , price unknown. the one at ace has only 100k miles. japanese has one for 650$ these are all '97 outback transmissions they will work in your 96 GT. any trans from 96 - 98, outback, legacy GT, or legacy LSi will work if it has the 2.5L engine and the trans part number starts with TZ102Z2........ install should cost around 500 - 600$. good luck. Magic Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Clearwater) Request_Quote 1-727-573-7751 Request_Insurance_Quote Ace Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Tampa) Request_Quote 1-813-626-2145 Request_Insurance_Quote Elite Used Auto Parts USA-FL(Tampa) Request_Quote 813-247-3334 / 888-606-3334 Request_Insurance_Quote Japanese & European Auto Parts USA-FL(Tampa) Request_Quote 1-813-663-9741 Request_Insurance_Quote

2 questions, which dealer did you deal with? (it sound like they know what they are talking about.) is the wheel bearing for the '05 the same for 95 - 99? or did they change the design of all leggy wheel bearings starting in 05 even though there are different ones.

my only concern would be the correct installation of the parking prawl. if both the one in the your car and the one from the junker are 'apart', it may be hard to figure out exactly how it is supposed to be set up. a couple of good pictures would be worth 2 or 3 sleepless nights . from my limited experience it is not hard at all to get everything lined up. there are no parts "flopping" around to not line up. you replace the parts, put on the gasket, and bolt it on. please correct me if i'm wrong.

this begs the question, would this process help with a dirty duty c and torque bind. usually the first fix is change the ATF. maybe it should be, add 1/2 can of seafoam, driveand then change ATF.