johnceggleston

thanks, i hope i never have to do it!!

some of the early 99 auto trans are the same as the 97 - 98s. if it has the spin on external filter it is not compatable. if it doesn't have the filter , then it will work.

slightly off topic, i read a post recnetly that implied that you could swap a piston withpout cracking the main block case. is this true.? i thought if you went that deep you had to split the case. so with the pan and heads off you can remove the pistons and rods, just not the crank?? thanks, john

i don't know a lot about auto trans, but even if the valve body is different as you say, the duty b may be the same. especialliy if you are just swapping that part, which is way more work than i'd attempt. the duty c i swapped was a fairly simple electric device, i can't imagine they redesigned it just because they upgraded the trans, but maybe they did. the trick would be getting part numbers to compare.

is just the door damaged or is the frame damaged as well.? if just the door you can replace it.

96 outback, manual.. it should have the 2.2L engine. youjust got lucky if the timing belt jumped!! did you check the oil. ? as niper said, low oil level will cause it to make a lot of noise, and eventualy hurt the engine. and since yours is leaking...........

95s didn't have that piece. you can remove it, but the door might not latch right if you do. it may be aligning the door so it will latch. guiding the door to close to the right place.

with torque binding, the front and rear wheels 'want' to turn the exact same number of times. when you drive anything except a straight line, there is a differentce between the front and rear wheel rotations, this difference builds up. on long runs it works itself out through the tires on the pavement. on short runs the difference is stored in the drive line, drive shaft, axles, tires. when you shift into neutral or park, it releases. in neutral it just bleeds off, in park it bleeds off and is caught by the park lock. i can't imagine how this could continue without the rear drive shaft in place. does the car lurch in park if you are on perfectly flat ground?

this has some god info. also, the process of pulling wires to help figure it out may help. http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm

next time you are in the car, try pausing in N before shifting into park. let the 'whatever' bleed off before going into park. i would have thought this was binding related , but with the rear shaft gone how could it be?

whle we're on the the subject, i know the recommended mix is 50/50, but is 66/34, antifreeze to water, better or worse for cooling.? are there any conditions where more than 50/50 is desirable?? in milder climates, nevere below 0'F, is less antifreeze ok? just wondering.

i'd put on a good pulley, it's seems to me that its more likely to cause the wobble than the crank. clean up the crank, good pulley, lock tite and torque it on. the biggest down side to failure is your granny being stranded. good luck.

i've got one if you want it , 20$ shipped. pm me if interested.

this co owner must be a silver tounged devil, to turn a disatisfied service customer into a new car buyer. any way congrats on the new ride.

the torx screw tightens the piece that pinches the ball. i took mine apart and found a broken 'spring' piece of metal inside. i added someting to add friction, paper or card stock. mine still a little lose, but better than it was.

there's a trunk release "cancel' lever on the inside of the trunk latch. double check to make sure it is still in the release mode. that's ofcourse if you have a sedan, hard to tell from your post.

looks new!! year, miles, trans, awd and engine size? they don't offer that car in the us. but with gas going up, maybe soon.

you are going to be in the minority with that opion on this site. some might say..." this means war". more realisticly, don't be surprised if you get challenging responses.

did the car have the 'special coolant additive" put in the radiator prior to the head gasket work. IIRC, that was a pre-requisite of warranty HG work. your radiator may be blocked. i have heard of this happening after the HGs are done in cars with the 'stuff' added . if this is the case, a good rule of thumb would be to flush your cooling system when doing HGs if you have put in the "stuff". ihave read where stop leak only hardens when exposed to air, guess what happens when you drain the system to do the HGs. i course, i could be all wrong. please correct me if i am.

it must be a hell of a plug.

i've read here that the offset was a 5.5". and since i know nothing about wheels, i just ASSUMED it was 5.5 for all legacy / outback wheels. are steel wheels different than alloy? if you were making a farm "truck"out of an outback and wanted much larger tires, could you put spacers on the hubs, (cut out the fenders) so the wheel/tire would clear the struts?

what are the chances the engine is a 1.8L or similar??

anything else on this fuse??

and, that pulley has to come off every time the timing belt is changed, so it was designed to be removed and replaced every 100k miles at the very least. just make sure it is re-torqued properly, 125 ft. lbs i think. if the bolt works lose, it can in fact ruin your crankshaft.

how long since the timing belt was changed?? the blinking (16 times) AT Oil Temp light at start up means there was an electrical malfuntion / failure in the auto trans the last time you drove the car. most likely in the transfer clutch duty c solenoid for sending power to the rear wheels. but it could be several other things as well.