johnceggleston

the 99s with this problem were the first of the phase 2 trans (different connector from phase 1 ), i think. so you'll want to go '00 and later, but stay close to your year. i'm not familiar wit hwhich ones will work and which ones won't and i doubt man,y if any, salvage yards will guess.

the interchange software @ http://www.car-part.com says there was a FWD trans in either 97 or 98 for one year, but i've never heard anyone talk about one. so chances are good that you have obd1 vs. 2, but will this cause a real problem? you really do need to read the code..... did you try it with the AWD TCU? with the fuse in? maybe the pin you use for the 4wd locked switch is involved. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50264

since you used a FWD trans i would have thought any necessary 'pin' work would have been covered unless the harness in the car that the trans connects to is different. but then i don't really know how it works. i can't believe they manually adjust the pins for each trans install. do you have the donor car connector to look at? did you remove the FWD socket & wiring? have you tried putting in a fuse?

nipper, i was really expecting a little more from you like..... until it fails. on a more serious note, how do you know it's the front diff bearings??

gary, i think your idea of the pin maybe on track. the recent thread about how does the TCU / ECU know if it's a manual or auto trans was ther same idea. maybe there is a wiring harness difference. i would think this would be cheaper than a TCU difference... maybe. keep us posted.

it would be a lot cheaper and a lot easier to change back, if you just removed the rear section of drive shaft and all but the spindles in the hubs of the rear axles. then you wouldn't be pushing ALL of the rear wheel stuff, just the transfer clutch stuff. this might boost your mpg a little for a lot less money. removing the front section of drive shaft would be even better, but you need something on the end of the trans to keep the fluid from flowing out. opening the transfer clutch and removing half of the clutch would help too, but then you'd have some real labor invested. more expensive and maybe more effective would be to replace the trans / front and the rear differentials. this would make the car a 4.11 to 1 instead of a 4.44 to 1. (i'm guessing that the final drive of the forester is the same as the outback.) swapping in a 4.11 final drive would give you about 8 to 10 % improvement on economy, i think.

nipper, this is a good point. considering how difficult it is to reach one of the plugs, it could also be done in conjuntion with the compression test. the plug's already out right? i guess it just depends on the cost of the plugs and if you actually are going to repair the engine.

i can remember the first time i saw a starter PEDAL one my brother's 41? chevy and how odd i thought it was. not so different any more.

it sounds like it would only take a few weeks to present as a problem. too bad they didn't do this with the head gaskets. oh well, live and learn.

i think the difference in the o2s for legacy, front and rear late 90s, is the connector. i think the sensor is the same. IIRC the 2 i compared were both denso /bosch wit hthe same number stamped on them, but the connectors were different, i think. it does not surprise me that the impreza changed before legacy, example: impreza went to a the phase 2 auto trans before legacy, a year at least. then in 00 or 01, the 2,2L impreza and legacy went with the same trans, same part number. then they discontinued the 2.2 altogether. it's just my guess, but i think they shared a trans for a while before phase 2, they just had different part numbers (maybe different final drives?). like the 96 outback trans has a different part number from the 97 outback, but the only difference is the production date. your question about swapped engines and not-swapped o2s brings up a good point, but i think the o2s stay with the car. the ecus generally stay with the car. it just doesn't seem too critical about the o2s. maybe that's why you can buy generic o2s, even if they aren't as reliable as oem. so to answer you question, you go with the sensor that fits the wiring and WORKS. hopefully you have several to choose from.

IIRC, the heads on the 2.2 and 1.8 are the same, so as long as the engines are of the same years , or matching years , it should.

advance auto has them the same for these years, not that i'd buy one from advance: Bosch Oxygen Sensor: Part Number: 13702 This product fits the following vehicles - click on a vehicle to see detailed engine information. SUBARU back to top 1998 - 1999 FORESTER 1996 - 1999 LEGACY 1998 - 1999 IMPREZA

the firs time i took my ignition switch apart, i used a chisle to slowly back out the security bolts, tap...tap...tap.... once i got it oput i raelized i didn't need to do all of that, live and learn. buy a replacement eithe here or at a parts yard. it would be good if all the locks matched, doors and ignition, but thats not required. the 'security bolts, (i thought these were really neat) are double headed and once they fully seat, the hex head snaps off leaving a rounded off head which is very time consuming to remove. i bought new security bolts and installed them. i'm not sure i'd do it again. any one who goes that far to steal my car can have it. it's insured. the part of the ignition switch / cylinder that the key fits into is easily removed if you have a key. you can then have re-keyed to match you door locks (i paid 20$ in 99). i don't know the headache if the key cylinder doesnot have a key. make sure the one you buy has a matching key. if you buy all the dorr locks as well as the igniton assesmbly, you can swap them out to. but the door locks a harder to install than the ignition aasem. in my opinion. you can't get a tool inside the door to thread in the seconf bolt. you can get them both out, but getting the second one back in is difficult. however ther is a spring clip that holds the door cylinder into the door handle and that helps keep the door handle in place. mine has worked fine since 99 with just one bolt. the rear hatch is easy. it souinds like mdjdc has everything you need.

i don't know anything about the forester, but not only are all the 90 - 99 ignition swtiches the same, but they are the same as early 90s nissan ignition switches. if you don't get a definte answer here, look up the part number at: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/ and see what years it fits. do you need the whole unit that bolts onto the steering column with 'security bolts' or just the keyway? good luck.

you got mail.

you really need to figure out what you drained and what you filled before you do anything else. from your description of how the car didn't 'shift' after your first attack, it sounds like you drained the trans fluid. use the dip stik on the driver side near the fire wall to confirm, do not start the car. once you are sure it's low add the 3.5 qts you tried to add earlier. hopefully this will correct that part of the error. the less you run it the better until you get the fluid back in ti. next, find the correct drain plug for the front diff and drain it. refill with the correct oil , run drive it a little, and drain and refill again. maybe repeat in a few days. i don't know what this stuff cost, but it's got to be cheaper than reworking the front diff. next, buy a haynes manual for your car, you'll be glad you did.

i have a pdf file that appears to be the FSM for the subaru 4eat. i can't upload it but if you pm me your email, i'll attach it for you. it says, 2) Install the washer and snap ring to the speedometer shaft, and set the oil seal. Then force-fit the shaft to the converter case 3) Install the speedometer driven gear to the speedometer shaft, and secure with a snap ring. the picture for step 3 shows it being done from the insde of the diff case. let me know.

gary, does this mean you can't swap a 95 2.2 intake onto a 94 2,2L block and install it in a 95 ? i just assumed the blocks would be the same, or very very close. i have recently come across a couple of 95s that 'overheat'. i was wondering if a 94 engine with a 95 intake would work.

this may help. but i think you are going to have to pull the trans and then remove the carrier. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/? you can see the plastic? drive gear , the speed sensor mounting hole is in the top right corner of the picture, I THINK. since there doesn't appear to be any way to attache the mechanisim in this picture, is it possible that it threads in from the top where the speed sensor attaches. of course if the drive gear is bad .......

i know nothing about turbos.... white smoke would make a lot of sense if the coolant was leaking into the exhaust or intake, but is there oil also in the intercooler that water could leak into? would an engine run if you disabled the turbo and re-routed the coolant line to exclude the turbo? to check for sludge then? probably can't disable the turbo while it is still on the engine. oh well, .................just wondering.

the 95 leg 2.2L is the preferred 'swap' engine for 96 - 99 2.5Ls. the few things that aren't a perfect match are minimal. there's a power steering line mounting bracket. take the A/C compressor off of your 2.5 and leave it attached to the a/c lines. you'll use the existing compressor with the 2.2L mounting bracket. you can do the same with the power steering pump. this save refilling both. i think there is one other small thing........ but it's a perfect fit. and will run fine. there are lots of write ups on this.

don't feel bad. that's why the state requires the inspection, as long as they will go forward, most of us will drive them. some times it's good to have BIG BROTHER looking over our shoulder.

http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CVBoot.htm

ther was a discussion a while back wondering if the 90 - 94 us cars had the mounting points for standard seatbelts. apparently the automatic belts were not required in canada. you might be able to install regular belts.

so you need to replace the tank with one from a wagon, yours is from a sedan. post a wabt ad here and some one should have one. or look at the for sale ads, some is bound to have this part, cheap. maybe here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86424