johnceggleston

2000 was the last year for 2.2L engines in legacys and 2001 was the last year for the impreza. from there out it's all 2.5s in all the legacy / outbacks and 2.0 or 2.5 for imprezas. the 2.0L in the impreza seems like a step backwards, was that a turbo engine?

this was the first start of the day, and the fuel filter has not been changed by me. so that's easy. i'll try the mister trick. i'm glad to hear that njdr solved his problem, it gives me hope. but it is unsettling to think that this may linger. thanks for your help, i'll let you know what i learn.

today for the first time ever, my 97 obw - 121k was hard to start. it didn't start on the first crank as usual, i cranked it again , longer without pressing the gas pedal. it finally did start but then it felt like it had an occasional miss. no CEL. i drove about 1.5 miles to the store and parked. by the time i came out, 45 min., it was fine. because of the weather this morning , (warm moist air moved in on mostly cool obects and everything had condensation on it) i assumed it was a dampness/ wiring problem. new oem wires and plugs last year. new t-belt, water pump and seals at 98k miles when i bought it. currently 150 miles into a full tank of gas, so not the bottom of the barrel. any suggestions? what wiring i should address first, coil, crank or cam sensors? would the nighttime mister trick be first? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks, john

i have some good news and some bad news, the bad news first, you are old!! and the good, you are going to get older!! it's more fun than the alternative.

this is a great tire comparison calculator. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

ok, here's my dumb question of the day, hopefully the only one, i thought 95 leg only had one o2 sensor???

https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html OEM Catalog Item Number MSRP ......Core .....Price 22663AA010 ..................$10.29 ....$0.00 ....$7.54 PRESSURE SENSOR FILT [/url]

first of all , the expensive things to repair with outbacks are the overheating problem. usually check engine lights are not expensive to fix. sometime they made be hard to track down, but not expensive. welcome to the board, and enjoy your ride.

try searching for a more common item for your make and model like the radio, and sort your search by distance, you may find a parts yard near you and you can actually visit them, may be even a pick-a-part yard. then call the place and ask if they have the other trim pieces and ashtray. and/or place an ad here in the wanted section of the marketplace. search the for sale section here. search ebay 'parts and accessories' section, there you can specify your year and model to narrow the responses. eventually you will find some one who has an impreza in pieces.

thats not a legacy, it must be an 'outback sport', that's an impresa outback. have you tried www.car-part.com ?

so how about this, get the exchange, tell them you lost your receipt, they should have your info in the computer. then take your new part with your original receipt to a different store and return it. you just need to get to the person hiugh enough up the chain of command who has the athourity to 'opt' for a refund. autozone warranty Limited Warranty We will replace, or refund your money for, at our option, any part we sell that wears out or breaks under warranty. Your warranty starts on the day you buy the part and expires at the end of warranty period stated on the receipt or when you sell your vehicle - whichever comes first. To obtain a replacement part, visit any AutoZone store or contact AutoZone.com at 1-800-288-6966 to arrange return shipping. Replacement parts are warranted for the remainder of the warranty period or 90 days, whichever is longer. The warranty does not cover defects due to improper installation, other defective parts, low fluid levels, abuse, or commercial, off-road or marine use. THIS LIMITED WARRANTY REPRESENTS THE TOTAL LIABILITY OF AUTOZONE FOR ANY WARRANTIED PART, AND AUTOZONE MAKES NO OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. AUTOZONE SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY INDIRECT, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. Some states do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, or exclusion or limitation on incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state. All of AutoZone's parts, except those mentioned previously, are covered by our Limited Warranty. The length of AutoZone's Limited Warranty varies with each part. To locate the length of our Warranty for your part, please visit our Shopping area. Return to top. Questions? Send an e-mail or call (800) 288-6966.

i can't tell you how to pep up your motor, but if you put larger tires on your 2.2L you will loose some of the pep you already have. it may not be enoiugh to notice, but you'll be going the wrong direction. i would do the struts first and then look at tires. larger tires(outback) on the legacy 4.11 final drive is going to be different than outback tires and outback final drive(4.44). besides, the tires only add 3/4 inch. FYI, the 97 GT has legacy tires and struts with the outback final drive, (the opposite of your future setup) this and it's TCU and 2.5L, tends to make it peppier.

so get the new rebuilt alt and sell it on ebay, send the purchase receipt with it so you can claim lifetime warranty when you sell it. use the money to offset the cost of the OEM part. but work for the refund as long as you can. good luck.

i think you are going to find that outback people recommed outbacks and forester people foresters. the cheapest way to get there is to put outback struts on your legacy. you'll get more ground clearence for the body, at least .75 inches. i'm not sure how much exactly. by putting larger tires on, (195/80/14) on your 14" wheels (or buying outback wheels and tires) you will gain another .75 inches of ground clearence. depending on money, do the struts now, and tires when you need them. if hiking is seasonal, get used whells and tires and run the larger ones during hiking season, the smaller ones the rest of the time. this will allow you to get your moneys worth out of them. but as mentioned above, drive the car you want. if you like the forester, work towards that. if you ccan spring for struts now, but nothing else , do that and make the transition in stages. i think outback struts cost about 80-90$ each, used are about half that, plus labor, plus tires, plus .....

does it have a rear wiper? if it has a wiper then it has a rear washer. check the washer fluid tank under the hood. if the the tank has 2 outlets and pumps then some where the line is plugged, or the pump is bad or the line was never re-connected when the hatch was replaced. if the tank only has one outlet / pump, then some one swapped in a tank from a sedan. when i bought my outback the pump for the front was bad, so i swapped in a tank from my sedan with a bad trans just because i had it. if it doesn't have a rear wiper, well then that's different......??????

ok, subaru auto trans do shift harder 1-2 than the other shifts or other autos i've driven. so unless it is really bad, it's normal. since you are a new owner, and i suspect a first time subie owner, you are describing the normal subaru hard 1-2 shift. that doesn't mean that you and your car will not benefit from trans fluid change or other preventative service. how bad is the shifting from 1 - 2?? does it make any noises? does it high rev during the shift? does it run alright all the rest of the time? as long as it is working ok, drive it for a while and get used to the new sounds, and the feel of your new subie. oh, and welcome to the party!!!!

it would depend on the struts you used. outbacks are taller, i don't know how much but an inch sounds about right. outback tires are about .78 inches larger in radius than legacy and .71 inches larger than GT. i can usually feel the difference in height when i get out of the driver seat.

tell him there have been multiple cases of crank pulley/keyway boogering when not torqued to 130 ft lbs. ask him to garrantee it won't let loose and screww up your crank. get him to garrantee, in writing, he will fix it for free.

nipper i knew the rear speed sensor was a square wave, because you've told me before and the sensor is simple, a magnet and a (reluctor?). but the front one is actually turned but a gear on the front carrier. i guess it could have the magnet and stuff inside the unit but i thought it might be different, just cause it looks different. i don't know what it could be because i have not been told yet... but i just thought.....different must be different. front speed sensor link http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5188&d=1187809499

actually it's worse than a regular ole legacy, it has a 4.44 final drive (like the outback, not the 4.11 like the legacy) now coupled to the 2.2L engine and smaller GT tires like the legacy. so it will be 'quicker' than a legacy, but the fuel economy will not be the same because of the final drive and tires. largewr tires would put it in the same power arena as an outback with a 2.2L engine . (of course larger tires require outback struts). i'd be tempted to try a regular legacy TCU in it just to see. some one here is bound to have a spare you could borrow. if it helps, buy it , if not send it back. off topic: want to make your outback drive like a GT, put on smaller tires and a GT TCU.

if the rest of the drive shaft was removed he could back it out on tio the street, but it will want to leak trans fluid and you can't drive it any distance because it would lose all the fluid. either the o2 sensor is broken in half, or the threaded bung is busted, which would need welding???

ahh yes grasshopper, new subbies are like new lovers, you have to fully experience them to fully enjoy them. the more you drive the more you glide! the more you love the more..... children you make. to borrow an advertizing phrase from volvo in the 60s, 'drive it like you hate it', soon you'll love it.

it's called flush and run!!! you need to take care of everything, i mean everything, before you pull the lever. if something goes wrong, you don't want to be any where near it when it does.

the trans are very similar, same generation, both phase 1, both have similar TZ102Zxxxx part numbers. but when you read up on 4eat in the endwrench articles, it talks about changes that were made in the design/operation of the 4eat trans as they produced them. i don't know what the changes were or when they occured, but generally for a 95 you'll need a 95 - 98 phase 1 4eat with a part number similar to the one above. if the trans part number starts with TZ1A2Z... then it's phase 2. a quick test might be to try the tcu from the 95 in the 90 or vice versa. but i'm not even sure if that would be safe / smart to do.

i have over 100 oil pan and/or trans pan drain plug crush washers. i bought an auction lot of subaru stuff from a retired , cleaning out my stock, subaru machanic. most of the items i bought have/had subaru part numbers, these washers did not. FOR SALE half price, make me an offer. i also have a bunch of ac idler bearings, a few ac compressor bearings ( i think). some oem hose clamps, various sizes. and a $hit load of o-rings, some with part number, most not. a door light switch a trans neutral cut out switch - for older subarus - i'll have to check an oil pressure sending unit - for older subarus - i'll have to check 1 ea. ignition coil pack new, OEM - subaru part # 22433aa400 ..................... fits: Impreza, 2.2L 1995 – 1998; Legacy 2.2L 1995 – 1998; Legacy 2.5L 1995 - 1998 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4600&d=1169305226 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4601&d=1169305226 holler if you have any interest.