johnceggleston

the front speed sensor also controls the speedometer. i don't know much about how it works, but to over simplify it , it counts the revolutions. it's mounted in the passenger side of the front differential near the fire wall. it has a wire coming off of it. it is driven by a geared shaft off of the differential carier which rotates the same as the front drive axles. the rear speed sensor is simplier, the sensor, a magnet?, notices every time a 'tab' onm the output shaft passes by ( i think there are 4 tabs). the sensor is before the rear differential. nipper tells me it's a square wave, i think. this sensor is the rear most wire on the passenger side mounted into the rear extention housing ( 95 - 99 auto trans). any conversions that need to be done are covered by the ECU or TCU.

you are smart aren't you??????? this relay/ switch would help prevent the damage from leaving it on long term. however, it does not address damage, if any, due to high speed or dry pavement. my other idea, which no ones has perfected, was to control / vary the output from the speed sensor on the rear trans output shaft to the rear wheels. the computer uses this to determine the split front and rear. if the rear wheels are turning slower than the front they get more power. as far as no damage goes, this may be easier to accomplish. but it probably would not give you a 4WD locked condition. the transfer clutch should still allow for slipping to avoid damage. it was designed to do this.

yes, those are the questions. i'm glad we have an electrical engineer attacking the problem. please let us know what you learn. i am not an innovator, but i will follow the crowd.... on occasion...if it feels right.... and it can't hurt. good luck.

ok, i'm not feeling smart any more. enough with the hard questions!! i was just thinking that a switch that turns off with the car would mean you could only leave it on as long as the car was on. kind of like the switch subaru does NOT have on the heated mirrors. off when the car is off, it can't be left on. saab has them.!!!

in other threads , for earlier years, there has been a good bit of discussion about the difficulty in reading the AT dip stick. i would check it cold over time, not for proper level so much as to see if it changes. if the cold level drops over time, you have a leak.

i think..... i'm feeling very smart now.!!!! go ahead, ask me a hard one!!!

i guess with the rack already on the way out, it doesn't matter that the power steering uses ATF (95-99).

how hard / practical would it be to use a cruise control switch or similar relay as a switch for the duty c? that way, when the car is turned off the so is the duty c switch.

with my limited knowledge and in my humble opinion, there is nothing you can do to make the 4eat a rwd only except remove the front axles, or install disconnects on them. the front output shafts on the trans are a direct connection the gearing of the trans. in theroy, you can remove the front axles and still drive the car but i'm not 100% sure of that. and why would you want to except in an emergency. on the other hand, the rear output shaft is controlled by the TCU through a tranfer clutch and a solenoid the controls the fluid foir the clutch. typically the solenoid cycles on and off at a variable rate (controlled by the TCU) and this controls the pressure on the transfer clutch and therefore the output to the rear wheels. there is no doubt that some of the 'duty c' solenoids have gone 250k miles without problems, but i have one in a 95 leg with 130k that is bad. a bad duty c causes torque bind. one of the associated problems with duty c caused torque bind is that it wears out the clutch plates in the transfer clutch much more quickly. so is it "pretty much a wives-tale?", no it is real. how long can you run with the 'duty c torque bind' before yopu damage the rest of the clutch? unknown!! but it is not recommended. as for the part time FWD switch, you already have one, it's called the TCU. when the rear wheels are not needed for power the TCU only sends 10% of the power to the rear. FWD does not save any gas because all of the rear drive train is still in place and turning. you would have to remove the rear differential to gain any real advantage. this has been discussed here at length.

thanks for the link. i read through the information and have come to the conclusion that the 95 and 96 connectors are the same. apparently whats different from most american cars is the communication protocol. different protocols use different pin configurations. it's hard to believe that the parts stores don't have the necessary item to read the codes. thanks again for the info. john

my son drives it at college and i sent him into advance auto to get the codes read. well, they do not have the adapter, neither did autozone. the shop i used in richmond could read the codes, they did have the adapter. so i'm wondering, as porcupine said, if the pinouts on the ecu are the same, i could swap the connection port and then it would be standard, obd2. the obd2 readers will read the codes, but the connection is different. to the best of my knowledge we don't have emmision testing in this part of VA. so a swap of the ECU and the connector might be a solution. if a 95 ej22 will run in a 97 OBW with out any cel, i don't see why the 96 ecu wouldn't swap into a 95 leg. but who knows? i think the 95 has only one o2 sensor, that could be a problem for the 96 ECU i guess. my understanding of the 95 was that subaru went obd2 a year earlier than required, or maybe went a half step closer than obd1. but didn't go to the standard connection port until 96, but i'm not even sure the 96 connector is standard. but since obd2 was required in 96 i assume it is.

i have a 95 legacy with obd2 but it requires an connectoin adapter for the reader which our parts stores don't have handy which requires a shop visit. i also have a 96 leg wagon obd2 donor car. do you think i can swap the connector fronm the 96 into the 95 without any headache? would i have to swap the ecu as well? any experience with this? does any one know if the 96 uses a connection adapter.? i bought it wrecked and pulled parts, never drove or serviced it and i it's stored 45 min. away. thanks for any info!!

seats are cheap. www.car-part.com sort your search by distance, you may get lucky and find a leather one for cheap. i've got a green one, good condition, in roanoke if you are interested.

double check to make sure that all the wiring connectors are tight, especially after an engine change. then fronmt O2 sensor - OEM; then rear. i got this code in a 97OBW and it was a loose connection.

double check to make sure the wire going to the siren / horn (passenger side strut tower?) hasn't been cut.

my 90 nissan pickup and my 95 & 97 legacys use the exact same key blank and ignition key way. you can actually swap the nissan ignition keyway into the subaru, they must buy them from the same source. i am currently using a cut key that says nissan on it to operate my 97 OBW. and i have had my ignition keyway and door keyway re-keyed to match my nissan truck. now one key fits both vehicles. you can get a blank from any one who cuts keys, if it fits into the keyway, it can be cut to work. if you go to a lock smith you may pay a dollar more for the key, but he will make sure the key fits before and after he cuts it. i once watched a locksmith cut a key by hand with a file, you can't beat someone who knows their job. some of what the dealer parts guy may be saying is that the 91 had a different part number, different shape/type head, the part you hold. and as you say he may not have any practical experience. or the 91 may in fact have a different keyway, but this is the first i've heard of it. i have never seen a loyale or brat key so i have no idea if they are the same or different, but it would be unusual for subaru to redesign the guts in the steering column in mid-model. but not impossible.

it seems to me if some bad guys came and stripped the car while it was waiting to be towed the payment from the insurance would not go up or down. they have already determined the value of the car regardless of it's condition. if a tree fell on it and crushed the roof, the payment will not change. although they are buying the car they are actually reimbursing you for the cost of repair, not exceeding the value of the car. a friend of mine had a 20 year old family station wagon (he bought it new when his daughter was born) and a tree fell on it. insurance was going to give him cash value of the car (cheaper) instead of repairing it. he fought and won, they repaired the car. i have never heard of this happening any other time. could you sell the parts for more than 310$? how much is a rebuilt trans worth? i'd remove the trans. they are giving you car value instead of repair value, the trans does not change that.

it's a 4 stroke engine but the piston only has 2 strokes. the cam determines wheather it's exhaust or compression. i think you should do it the way wolftrack and the book says, forget the arrows. go with the correct marks. your belt may have been correct, but until you are sure it is senseless to look for other problems. on a side note, on a 2.2L, if the crank is in the correct position, and the bekt marks are correct, and the belt marks are correct on the cam pulleys, it's good. no questions. it makes no matter how many times the crank may have been rotated, or the cams for that matter. the only difference on a DOHC is the relative position of the second cam pulley to the first.

here in VA, cars going to the crusher are bringing around $4.50 per 100 lbs. so if the car weighs 3500 lbs, the cash price is 35 x 4.5 = $157.50. plus they have to pay some one to haul it. yeah, 200$ and it's yours. plus , aren't they paying you for body damage. subtract the 200 from their payment. how bad is the damage? does it run? cut the roof off and go topless. maybe not the best idea in the great northwest. or buy it for 200$, remove the trans, and sell the rest to the crusher guy for 140$.

i was afraid it might not be seen in the other thread, thanks for the great pics and the description.

how to seat your torque converter , by mnwolftrack (copied from http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=672461&postcount=64 ) First Photo: Here's a picture of the first stopping point when sliding the torque converter into the transmission (assuming it had been completely removed). The first stopping point can vary a little bit, so don't be too concerned if yours stops in a slightly different spot. Note that I drew a black marker line on the torque converter flange where the mounting bolts go. This line represents what would be the "fully seated" position of the flange when comparing the flange to the front mounting surface of the transmission when looking square at the side of the transmission (e.g. front mounting surface of transmission is perfectly in line with your line of site). As this picture shows, the torque converter is not fully seated yet, as shown by the black line (straight up and down) on the flange which is roughly an inch away from the front mounting surface of the transmission: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Second Photo: From here, I make a "fishhook" with my pointer finger on one hand and suspend the tip of the torque converter in the "hook" to hold it's weight as if it were fully seated. This helps prevent the torque converter from binding when trying to seat it (makes seating easier). Then, I spin the torque converter clockwise a few times and then counter clock wise a few times to see if it will catch to get to the second stopping point (if a few spins don't do it, I do a few more. If it's still a no go, I pull the torque converter back out and put it back in in a different position). Here's a picture of the second stopping point (easiliy confused for fully seated), in which the black marker line is still about 1/4-1/2 inch away from being flush with mounting flange: If you think the torque converter is fully seated (above photo) at the second stopping point, it's NOT! It needs to go another 1/4 to 1/2 inch. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Third Photo: To get the torque converter to fully seat, I spin in the opposite direction that just did that got it to seat in the 2nd stopping point. Then, when fully seated, it will look like this: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Forth Photo: Another angle of it fully seated, line of site no longer flush with transmission mounting surface, and you can see the black marker line a little better: ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Fifth Photo: Yet another angle, fully seated:

96 2.2L going into a 97GT with bad head gaskets, questions: what kind of sealant do i use to remount the oil pump after replacing the o-ring and tightening the screws? ......EDIT: found this answer: i bought the replacement metal seperator plate for the rear of the engine, but not the new screws, is this a problem? i'm planning on using lock tite on the one screw, how about the rest? (the big arrow is really helpful.) what kind of sealant / gasket needed for this? thanks for the help, more ??? as i find them. i'm replacing the rear main seal & seperator plate, t-belt, all idlers, water pump, cam seals & o-rings, crank seal, valve cover gaskets, oil pump o-ring and drive belts - alt & a/c . one of the kits on ebay mentioned a "mouse head" oil pump sela / o-ring, what is that?? what am it missing. thanks, john

you are not going to get money out of their insurance company , or yours, for that matter, with out a repair quote from a body shop, maybe 2 or 3 quotes. the pricing you asked for depends greatly on new vs. old parts, dent repair vs.hatch replacement. etc... the damage doesn't sound too bad. prices vary, but replacement doors can be had for 100$ - 150$, bumper covers less. paint jobs in the winter from CHEAP guys, mid-winter half price special, can be as low as 200$ for the whole car. it all depends on how you need your car to look.

it should bolt right on.

if you have the time and don't mind the inconvenience, how about posting a picture with both struts upside down. this would show if the spring heights are different, or just the strut lenghts. OR you could compare and just tell us. thanks, john