johnceggleston

what he said. 95 legacy auto & 96 leg auto w/ y pipe. both of these are NON-interferrence engines. 97 & 98 leg auto w/ y pipe. these are both interferrence engines. and of course you'll want to replace the plastic seperator plate on the back of the engine before you install it. and anything else that's leaking, (rear main seal only if it's leaking, generally they don't). and depending how long before you want to work on it again, the timing belt, water pump, and all the idlers..... but with the 95 and 96 these can wait, if they fail, no engine damage. courious question. when you did the head gaskets, what are the chances you got coolant in the oil?. i don't do internal engine work, yet, but i have read that this is not unusual on other engines, v6s, and will hurt the bearings. are you sure it's not just cold weather piston slap. you probably already know this but... http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm sorry for your head aches. sell the heads and stuff off the 2.5L to get some money back.

i'm not 100% sure but i think most 5 speed trannys from the 90s were either 3.9 or 4.11. i haven't heard of a 4.44 5 speed. but regardless, the 4.11 with your larger tires would put you on back on track. 2.2L legacys came with higher geared final drives and smaller tires. 2.5L legacys/outbacks came with lower geared final drives and larger tires. generally the difference in final drives matches the difference in tire size (% wise). the exception was the GT 96 - 98. it came with the 2.5L engine, lower geared final drive like the outback and smaller tires like the legacy L. this tends to make it quicker? it also makes it a slightly stronger tow vechile. also slightly less economical.

http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.pdf

since nipper is off resting his back, i'll say it. make sure all your tires are the same size, equally inflated and aren't worn badly. trhis is the first and easiest fix. if you have an AT temp light flashing 16 times at start up and torque bind, then you have a bad duty c solenoid and it need to be replaced( along with 2 duty c gaskets, $75 on line) and it can be done in the drive way. or 300$ at a shop. the other causes are: gunk in the duty c area of the fluid flow. this sometimes can be cured by changing the fluid, it may take a little while for the cleaning to take effect, but if it hasn't worked yet it probably won't. this is prevented by regular fluid changes. i guess it is conceiveable that removing the duty c and fluid lines and cleaning them would correct, but you wouldn't know until you put it back together and if it didn't you'd have repeat all that labor again, so replace in stead. ( i wonder if the crud contributes to the leaking mentioned below?) fluid leaking around/between a bearing? seal? and the aluminum housing where it shouldn't. this is mostly in pre-97 trans and was corrected in 97 by adding a pressed? steel? somthing or other for the bearing to seat into which prevents wear to the housing and therefore leaking. i'm not real sure how this contributes to torque bind, but you have to replace the housing to correct this problem. also the clutch plates can wear grooves into the driven drum which can contribute to torque bind. there is a great write up on the fix, but if you can get a good used unit ( if you are high mileage and pre 97 it might be best) i would do that. new dutyc in good used unit is optional, but for 75$ i'd do it. i have sworn never to install and old duty c again. my 95 leg had very minor torque bind for 95K miles (75k to 170k) only on the tightest of turn. i was unaware that it was a problem, i just didn't know. (if you can feel your trans shutter when you shift into P after parking in a tight space, that's the binding being released. mine was so concerning i would shift into N for a second, to release the binding, before shifting into park.) finally the rear output shaft seal blew out of the trans, i assume this was transfer clutch related. the resulting loss of fluid cost me reverse. i swapped in a trans and it lives!!!! again. when i bought my 97 OBW with 98k miles, it had torque bind and the flashing AT light. i replaced the rear housing with a good used unit (already had it ) and 285$ labor. and it lives!!! in hind sight, i should have installed a new duty c just to be sure. it wuold have added 75$ to the cost. PS Edit: if you can get a good used trans and install it with a new duty c, that might be the easiest way to go. i guess it all depends on price. most yards are reluctant to sell the rear housing off a good trans. you might look for a rear housing off of a bad trans, or 'parts only' or 'core' trans.

i doubt the the larger size of the clip is the problem, but it is interesting that they, or someone , changed the size. my guess is that the clip was a little worn and the the situation , whatever it was, stressed it to the point that it popped out. i'd put it back together and drive it until it happened again. if you have new clips and axles great, if not so what. it may never do it again.

i agree a great buy.!! my advice, drive the everliving crap out of it. sooner or later the problem will become obvious. no, don't ignore the symptoms, and always check to be sure it's safe. but for the price you paid, ENJOY. it may not break for 20k miles.

one question is wheather they are both single or dual port exhaust. as long as they are the same it will fit. the other question is the o2 sensors, the 96 has 2 of them.

i know a shop who will do head gaskets for less than half, 40%, of your quote just south of roanoke. i take it the car is in richmond? let me know if you are interested. it might be worth a call. i spoke to him at lenght, his price includes sending the heads out to be checked. i don't know how much if any t-belt parts it includes. i was inquiring about a 2.2 / 2.5 engine swap and he said "why not just fix the gaskets, it only 900$." why does your bio say roanoke??

let's see , which is better, ny alone or nj with the other half....????? hmmmmmm... i know what i'd choose.

nice catch, can you share a little more information about the 2 speedos and how to tell them apart.??

are you on the road or are you suggesting you could plan a trip traveling from one repair to the next.??

i'd make sure they'l honor the warranty before you 'take delivery' of the car. is there any fine print about pre-existing condiditons? or a 30 day waiting period? is the warranty based on an inspection by the seller?

thanks

i don't know the numbers, but they will be the same as 95 2.2 AWD. and probably the same as 95 - 99 2.2, maybe 2.5.

i have a 97 obw that the auto down is funny. when the window reaches the bottom, something continues to engage. and until it releases, i can't raise the window. and nothing i do wil release it. it has it's own time frame, not long but still it's own. if i lower the window manually and stop it just before the bottom, no problem. i think i would prefer the no auto down as oppsed to this. can the auto down be disconnected? what is a power window regulator? do these cars have them? could this be the problem? or is it just the switch?

do the rear axle stubs pop out like the front axle stubs do? i read where front axle stubs have popped out of the trans just ot be popped back in and keep going. or this may be just be axle time.

if you are looking for used try here, sort your search by distance: www.car-part.com have you posted in the wanted section of the marketplace here? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=36

he still hasn't said if it's a manual or automatic. this will dictate the ratio of his diff. differential are heavy. shipping them acros the country will cost. closer may be cheaper. i personnaly would go with used. you don't need a 0k miles diff in your car if it's got 200k miles on it. a good used one with 75 - 100k wil work great and you can probably find one for 50$ -75$. if you have to have new / rebuilt, i see no reason not to buy the one pictured. i have never heard of any one here knowingly selling a bad part. if you are looking for used try here, sort your search by distance: http://www.car-part.com

if it's an auto trans it's a 4.44 ratio and any rear diff from a 2.5L auto trans will work, 96 - 99. if manual it going to be a 4.11 ratio and you have your choice of 2.5L manuals 96-99 or 2.2L autos 95 - 99. these links should confirm. http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.pdf http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=13500&sid=7add370daf15909c801cba58%20f69c2cbd

some one on here used to go on and on about it. said it was the easiest. the other way to pull both is to drop them down and lift the chassis up. you leave the wheels on, un bolt the crossmember and control arms(?) , leave the sway bar on ( i think) disconnect the struts, and brakes & steering lines. and of course, whatever else is hanging on, abs.....

perhaps you can appeal to her more practical side. "honey, sweetheart, if we sell the subaru and buy another car it's going to cost us about X thousands of dollars. if we keep the subaru and don't buy a new car we will save all those dollars; some of which we could then spend on more important things, like, maybe jewelry!!!!" if she doesn't go for that it's a lost cause.

there are 3 primary possibiblities: 1. the boot is not torn and the guy was just trying to get you to spend money. 2. the boot was not torn when you drove in and it is now, and he's just trying to get you to spend money. 3. the boot was torn when you pull in and he's just trying to get you to spend money. my experience is limited, but usually these things will go a long , long time before they fail without any outside help. how many miles on the car?

if '03 is too new , and you like 2.2L engines, you should keep in mind the 90 - 96 2.2L engines were non-interferrence. 97 - until, are all interferrence engines, t-belt, water pump, idler, or tensioner failure equals head / valve damage. so add the cost of a t-belt replacement to any '97 - until' car unless you know for sure when the belt was done. if you don't know when it was done you should do it sooner rather than later. waiting could be expensive.

the mileage on your car will scare off some buyers, BUT a georgia car with no rust is a sight to behold. go to crazedlist.com and search in PA, NY, VT, CONN, MA, ME and see what some cars with rust are bringing. you can always sell it for cheap. what did you pay for it? how many miles have you put on it? how much did you spend on non-maintenance repairs? (brakes, tires, oil, fluids, and tune ups are maintenence items) . add up what you spent on it since you've owned it, purchase and repairs (not including maintenence), subtract a figure for all the miles you have driven (5 cents a mile, 10 cents a mile or something like that ) and what you have left is your "can't go below" sale price.

that does sound high. did you look a http://www.car-part.com ? or craigs list. there's a guy here in va selling doors pretty cheap, but shipping wouyld be costly. what exactly are you looking for? there are lots of parts cars around. front fenders are going to be harder to come by simply because cars a usuallly moving forward when they crash.