johnceggleston

there is one small exception. i think in 97, they added a post in the lower door jam of the rear doors. i think you can unscrew it and the 95 doors will fit perfectly. i don't know why they added it , but my 95 sedan doesn't have it and my 97 wagon does.

i'm pretty sure i've got one, but it might take several days to get to it. i figured some one els would be quicker. let me know if you want me to search it out. i remember thinking when i took it apart that this was one of the few parts i'd seen on a legacy that seem out of place. it's too small and too hard to remove . i understand how you dropped it. some one posted recently, i think, that's easier to remove the unit with the cable by disconnecting the other end. let me know. john

is it always the same pump or the same gas station? or does it happen at all pumps/ stations?

some one recently posted a FSM section on the 99? auto trans, i think. it went in to great detail about shimming the pinion gear in the diffential and setting the ring gear with the 2 retaining rings, one at each axle. reading the description of the procedure for putting it together correctly gave me a very good understanding of how it is supposed to work. in a nut shell, if my memory serves me correctly. the pinion and ring gear must mate correctly or they wear funny, badly. solutions were given for too-much-of-this or not-enough-of-that. but what i remember about the retaining rings and the differential is this: after you get the pinion right, you thread in the retaining rings until each one just touches and then back it off. you do this several times to make sure you do not go too far. then, you thread one side IN and the other side OUT the EXACT same (pre set ) number of turns (1.75 turns?). this shifts the ring gear, etc., in the correct direction the correct distance. ( i didn't even bother to try and remember the amount or the direction since i didn't think i'd need it and i knew i would never be able to remember it if i did need it. if i do, i'll do a search.) the long and the short of it is, if you replace the seals ONE SIDE AT A TIME and you re-thread IN the EXACT same number of turns you threaded OUT, you should be able to replace the seals without damaging the differential. but, i'm still in the how-much-is-it-really-leaking camp. if it's not making you add gear oil every few months, why bother. try this at your own risk. gear oil is cheap.

that should take care of it. i would also drain and refill again, can't hurt. did you put in new fluid when you installed the trans. it sounds like you have an intermittent bad duty c. if it was always bad, the fuse would not help. have you gotten the flashing AT TEMP light at start up (or power light)? the only other precaution you might consider is the clutch plates. how many miles on the running trans and how many miles on the spare/bad trans. did it have torque bind when you pulled the bad trans? if not those parts should be good. you might at least look at the plates and compare with the others while you have it out. if one set looks better or if they both look bad, you might swap in different and/or new clutch plates. once the unit is open, checking the plates is easy, a snap ring.

any auto parts store. take in the busted hose, both pieces, and get the size that matches. make sure you get a long enough piece to make the bend with out kinking.

you may drain out a little more by raising the front off the ground, but you will still need to drain and fill 4 times. or drian and fill enought to get to drive and then have a flush done at a shop for 100% drain.

my mistake, i was very surprised to think they would fit when i thought they were 60s.

195/80/14 will work. it is the same diameter and circumference as the stock outback tire, which is 205/70/15. 205/70/15 on an outback wheel will work, it's stock. 205/60/16 will fit with GT wheels. 205/75/14s on you legacy wheels will fit, it's .2 inches smaller in diameter and .6 inches smaller in circumference than stock outback tires. 215/60/16 is .1 inch smaller than outback diameter. 215/70/15 is .3 inches smaller than outback diameter. 205/65/16s on a GT wheel will be .2 inches bigger in diameter (.1 inch bigger in radius, thats less than 1/8 of an inch) and .6 inches bigger in circumference than stock outback tires. i'm not sure i'd spend money on tires this size unless i was sure. 215/70/15 is .6 inches larger than outbak diameter, i don't think i'd use them. 185/85/14 is .1 inche larger than outback diameter. i use outback as the standard since the struts and tires are a known match. one size down from those listed will lessen the speedo error. 2 sizes down from those listed will piut you back at stock legacy tire size, 195/70/14. question: if you swap in an outback TCU or ECU or instrument cluster (which ever) would you elminate the speedo error.??? i may try that. are you try to get as big as possible, or just bigger? price may make a difference. it seems that the ones they sell more of are cheaper, but maybe not. edit correction: if jamal's were 225/60/16 they'd be .3 inches bigger in diameter ( thats more than 1/8 of an inch in radius) than stock outback.

the 97 switches have 2 bulbs in each, one for low and one for high. they glow orange. 94 should be similar?

bump. why won't this thread show up on my list/search of 'new posts'? i must have clicked somthing i shouldn't . oh, well.

+1 for the cap. i had one leaking that i never would have noticed if i hadn't let the car idle, at full operating temp, in the drive way. the cap didn't leak until it was at full pressure. new cap, no leak.

http://www.subarugenuineparts.com http://www.1stsubaruparts.com http://www.subarupartsforyou.com you can search the last one and get partnumbers and then check the other 2 sites and order from the one you want. there's always shipping. i prefer jamie @ subau genuine parts, she's a member here. have your vin# handy.

compared to most, i'm pretty new to subarus and my experience is limited to 90s legacys, but to me 3 cylinders is pretty quirky. spare tire mounted on the engine is quirky. but the best, cars that run 300k is quirky. no, wait, that's just subaru. was the colt 3 cylinders?

i do not have an electronics degree, but my idea was ... instead of controling input to the duty c, control the output from the rear speed sensor. i'm told this is a square wave? and this is the what the computer uses to determine how much power to send to the rear. the single biggest advantage to this would be that even when you have it maxed out with 50/50 power split, you still have the designed 'slip' which would avoid damage to the transfer clutch. i have no idea how to build a square wave generator and as nipper pointed out last time, you have to have some output from the speed sensor or the computer will think it has failed and go into limp? mode. i guess you could rig a small motor to match turn for turn the rear speed sensor and then gear it down and then moutn another sensor sending unit ... or maybe you could do it electrical components and no moving parts. ideally you would have one you could dial in, or one that would send the computer only 80% (or whatever) of what was comming from the sensor. good luck.

supposedly the belts on a 2.2L are easy to do but it's still labor. unless you need it immediately, i'd order it online and get the cheaper one (100k). if you get one from AZ and it fails, you have to do it again. i got some great advice about replacement parts for computers a long time ago, and i think it's true for critical car parts as well. don't buy the cheapest parts you can find, buy the besst deal on QUALITY parts you can find. it'll run longer. you can get a belt as cheap as 28$ at AZ, but i'll order the $40 somthing subaru OE belt on line. i just have to remember to plan ahead.

i don't see why not. its much better than the one i used from AZ. two thoughts: when you reassemble, put anti sieze on the splines. and have you considered using the axle that's on the hub. i went to swap a hub from my parts car to my daily driver only to realize i coundn't find the socket to remove the axle nut. so i swapped the set. used the parts car's hub and axle for my good car. lots less work now, more work later. good luck

due regardless. point taken.

autozone has a loan-a-tool program. go get a puller. it would be easier if it was mounted on the car or in a vice for stability, but use a puller.

somme of that stuff could be very toxic!! be careful.

nipper, if the '03 llbean outback has a limited slip rear end, or was it the front one, and since it's a 4.44 ratio, the only thing keeping us from putting one in our outbacks is will it fit, bolt patern and length. i wonder..... so many IFs. i'd like to see a picture of one.

not necessarily. i thought there was a 60k belt for all legacys in the US except calf. and a 105k belt for california cars. i priced belts at autozone and the calif. belt is cheaper than the fed belt, but you have to order it. so if you walk in and ask for a legacy t-belt you pay more and get less. if you order it, you pay less and get more. there's a price difference at genuine subaru parts as well.

i don't know about your '03 beaner, but in 96 - 99 outbacks / legacys if you put it in D1 or D2 it would engage the AWD immediately. basically the computer would call for AWD. in D3 or D the computer would wait to detect a speed difference befroe sending more power to the rear. is your AWD computer controlled? i bet the lsd is nice.

i think all legacy wiring harnesses are the same. all outback wiring harnesses are the same, i think. i know the wiring for the rear lights is different betwen and outback and a legacy L, no trailer wiring connector. my 97 GT has the wiring in the console for the heated seats, i just haven't found the connectors under thecarpet under the seats yet. when i went back to the salvage yard for the switches, i asked for and got the connector pigtails at both the switches and at the seats. this way even if the connectors weren't there icould splice in some wire and have heated seats. a couple of questions: is the wiring for the auto trans present in a manual trans car? i don't know. is the wiring for heated seats / power mirrors there in a legacy brighton? i think it is.

it's a good thing i don't throw any thing away. thanks for the tip!!!!!