johnceggleston

what's " a ong 18mm spark plug non fouler" ??? this sounds like what i need on my 95 leg w/ p0420 code, it comes and goes. thanks

why the rebuild, what's wrong with your trans? what are the symptons, bearing noise?

how much work / money to replace the input shaft bearing? obviously the throwout bearing would be done with the clutch, but i have no knowlege of the input shaft bearing. it sounds like it's doable when the clutch ids done.

i'm going to drive the car today or tomorrow so my information is all from the owner. he said the noise stops when you push in the clutch. according to murphy, this porbably means input shaft bearing. but the guy did say he's not a mechanic and doesn't know what it is, this could be a dodge. he said he might take it to a shop to get it checked out. i can't believe he's selling without having done that, but who knows? he commutes 200 miles a day round trip 4 days a week. that's a lot of miles, 40k a year. i'm not sure how long he's been doing it. but he's gotten a different car. i'll test drive it and check to see if the noise is present with the clutch pedal depressed (throwout bearing) or while in gear driving (input shaft bearing ?) and/or not present in neutral (confirms input bearing ?). does this sound about right? once the trans is out of the car, how much work to swap the input bearing or should i just plan on swapping the trans? or this a situation where if you have more time you do one and more money you do the other? EDIT: what changes did they make between 98 and 99 on the manual trans, bolt pattern, what else? thanks, john

i have a 400 watt inverter which can handle my laptop. but i plugged in my cell phone charger (120v) the other day and the warning tone on the inverter would sound occasionally, mostly at stop lights. so i think my problem is one of 2 things, either the altenator is bad, or there is sever voltage drop in the wire run to the lighter. running heavy gage wires to the battery would be good. if her laptop battery is good, it will run the laptop and the inverter will charge it. the printer is just a straight pull. how about adding a Uninteruptable Power Supply (charger, battery, inverter) this would give you power for a limited time and you could leave it plugged in while you drive around keeping it topped up. then it's just a matter of size and money.

i'm looking at a 97 outback with 180k miles w/ manual trans and a noise. the noise goes away when you push in the clutch. would a new clutch , throwout bearing and pilot bearing fix this and how much for parts, how much for labor?? thanks, john

check the oil level, low oil will cause a tick in the ej22. but it's probably something else.

just out of couriosity, which engine and what's the trans part number? 2.5 and TZ102Z2ACA ?

i'm not sure this is true, but someone told me there was a color code on the back of the plastic trim in a car which you can match to paint/dye color. maybe it's obvious when buying but i don't know

did you see this? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=649977&postcount=1

when i swapped out my front axle recently, i discovered that the last guy put anti sieze on the splines and threads, thank you, thank you, thank you!!!

the circuit boards for the 95 leg sedan and the 96 leg wagon seem to be the same with one exception, the label on the main chip is different. i thinlk this indicates different programming. (the chip is the same but the printed lable is different.) the 96 wagon TCU was not a good match for the 96 trans in the 95 sedan body. it shifted later, reved higher and wanted to stay in 3RD. i figured this was due to the wagon being heavier than the sedan, any thoughts? i think the the mechanics of most of the trans are pretty much the same, but the programming in the TCU is for the specific model size, weight and driving characteristics, such as GT sedan vs outback wagon. i don't know if there is a physical difference between FWD and AWD TCU's, but the AWD TCU should be looking for the rear speed sensor.

they actually made some outbacks w/ 2.2L engines in 96. all outbacks were 2.2L in 95. but the 95 had the legacy trans and the 96 had the outback trans, different final drive ratio.

the TZ102Z2AAA is from a 96 2.5L legacy, LSi (or maybe GT, the 97 GT ended in CA not AA but i can't find any record of a CA trans in 96.) and it has the final drive ratio of 4.44. the last AA means legacy. the TZ102Z2ABA is from a 96 outback, it could be 2.5 or 2.2, they used the same trans for both that year, it too has the final drive ratio of 4.44. the last BA means outback. (they also used the BA on some impreza outback trans.) the 2 after the second Z indicates 2.5L which means 4.44 final drive. (one exception: the 96 outback w/ 2.2 used the 2.5L trans as i just mentioned and it also had the 4.44 final drive.) the last 2 charactures (after the "-") in the trans part number mean nothing. the last 2 charactures before the "-" indicate the model of car, legacy, outback, GT or LSi. these do not limit the interchangability of the trans. the "2" after the second Z indicate the 2.5L engine which dictates the final drive ratio of 4.44. this does limit the interchange of the trans. (4.44 vs 4.11) if the characture after the second z is a letter then the engine is a 2.2L and the final drive is 4.11. the 3RD to last characture, just before the BA or AA, indicates the version of the trans, A came before B and C came after. there may be slight differences in these trans models, but there seems to be no difference in the 96 leg wagon trans (...ZABAA) that i put in a 95 leg sedan (...ZAAAA). i think thses simply indicate different production runs or years. this only applys to 95 - 99 phase I automatic transmissions. hope this helps.

good question. my son's doing this away at college. i'll have to ask. but does this mean the connectors aren't there and it will not give the codes?

my 95 leg sedan has a cel on, i sent him to autozone and you all know what they said, "it's OBDI we can't read it." so i found these post on reading the codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=549871&postcount=12 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=531744&postcount=6 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=532548&postcount=19 http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/EWPreOBDAug05.pdf correct me if i'm wrong: black connectors under the dash will give me the codes in the memory. green connectors will give me the current operating trouble codes. both will clear the memory. thanks, john

yeah, most of my loud bangs have all been preceded by screeching brakes and cursing.

i'm talking to the owner of a 92 leg wagon that "needs a engine". when i asked what happened she responded with: "All I know is that they changed the oil in the car and my son's friends were revenning the engine to make sure oil was in the motor or something and decided to floor it and there was a loud bang." before i got her response i was kind of hoping it was the timing belt, but it doesn't sound like it. not much to go on but, any ideas? thanks, john

you can get the duty c and the 2 gaskets online for less than $80.00 shipped. that does add to the cost of the trans, but the labor to do it later is close to 300$. a 70 trans probably would run for a long time with out replacement but i have sworn never to install a used trans with out replacing the duty c. been burned once allready. i took my 200k donor extention housing apart this weekend and ordered the parts. mine looked exactly like the one in the pics above. i'll be interested to hear if your new one looks any better. apparently the hub with the notches worn into it is securly attached to the drive gear behind it (i've read welded but i'm not sure). otherwise you coul;d replace it as well. but that piece is on the trans not the rear housing so if you are swapping your whole trans you'll get the new used one. let us know how it goes.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html#90-99maintenance

I REPEAT, there's no speed limit to the mechanical operation of the drive train with the FWD fuse in.

typically, the 3.9 final drive was in the 2.2L manual transmissions in the 1990's. the 2.5L manual outback & gt had a 4.11.

there's no speed limit to the mechanical operation of the drive train with the FWD fuse in. but it is now a front wheel drive car and it will handle differently. so you might slow down until you get the feel of it.

all 2.2L engines with automatics have the 4.11:1 final drive ratio, except the 96 2.2L outback. all 2.5L engines with auytomatics have the 4.44:1 final drive ratio. now i'm not a automotive engineer, but i think the lower the number the more efficient/ higher the gearing, the higher the number the more powerful / lower the gearing. changing trans will improve your torque/power but not your mileage. larger tires / wheels tend to improve mileage, fewer rotations per mile, i don't know what too large would do. how does a 28.3" tire compare to the stock tire on an 97 outback, 205/75/15? it is plug and play, the trans will bolt in, plug in, and run just fine. don't change the TCU. these are programmed for the size and weight of the car, how it is supposed to run / shift (and the engine, little bit i think, but not much, you can put a 2.2L engine in a 2.5L outback and it runs just fine). example, if you put the TCU from an leg wagon in to a leg sedan it will shift later and stay in 3RD more, i think. starting w/ 1999MY the outback auto trans were phase II (legacy 2.2L may have started in 98) and had the external filter . the wiring harness changed, and more speed sensors were added, 2 more i think. so stay with the phase I trans 96 - 98. any trans part number starting with TZ102Z2... will have the 4:44 final drive and will plug in and run. the 2nd '2' after the 2nd 'Z' indicates 2.5L engine. all you need is the trans and the rear end. but brfore you put any money into this i would compare the tire sizes. if the new are substantially larger than the old i'm not sure the making the final drive change will help. the difference between 4.11 and 4.44 is only about 8%. if your tires and 25% larger then .....? it might be cheaper to get smaller tires.

here are a few. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=646635&postcount=4 if you are using mozilla firefox you can look here: www.crazedlist.org it's a great search engine but it won't deliver you to the ads, just the city sites, if you use explorer. or ebay.