johnceggleston

some one posted an exploded view of the trans / transfer clutch housing a couple of months ago. i saved it but it's now lost. you might try end wrench.??

i really don't have any way to judge how the ac is cooling except to say i think it could be better. how cold should the output be? should i just take it to the ac shop for a 'tune up'? or can some one offer instructiuons / link on how to do it myself? will 'topping off' the freon(?) help it make colder air? i've had it 18 months, bought it with 98k on the clock, now 115 maybe, this will be my second cooling season. thanks, john PS: i bought a box of misc. subaru parts which included bearings for AC idlers (8 - 10) and compressors (3 each). they do not have subaru part numbers. given the unknown nature of these parts, i'd be willing to send you one and you can pay me if it works. i would think matching the new to the old would be a good test. i looked up the part numbers with the manufactures but they fit so many different cars, i got tired. let me know if you are interested. cheap.

i would try and make them take it back. short of that i'd try to get them to fix it. assuming it cost 800$ to replace the gaskets, would have bought the car for 5000$ ? make them take it back!! get your cash and buy from another seller. if you swap cars with them, they are going to work the deal so you pay for the repair.

these are thge part numbers from nipper when he had his done at the dealer. ON LINE PRICES ARE LESS. 31523AA420 PLATE SET- TRF CLUTCH 173.28 31942AA090 VALVE AY TRANSFER CLUTCH 112.94 (DUTY C SOLENOID) 806735210 OIL SEAL 19.20 (I THINK THIS IS FOR THE VALVE ASSEMBLY - DUTY C) 31337AA129 GASKET TRANS CASE REAR 8.78 (MY TRANS SHOP USED SILICONE or similar) 44022AA020 GASKET 16.64 (TWO REQUIRED) EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKETS for the record labor was 510.50. Also took 4 qts of tranny fluid. careful when reassembling the case, you don't want to 'pinch' the duty c wire like bserk did. good luck.

this warning light is most commonly associated with a bad duty c solenoid and torque bind. it could mean any number or trans problems, but duty c seems to come up more often than others. does the car jerk or shutter or bind when making tight turns at slow speeds, if so, insert the FWD fuse under the hood and see if it goes away. if yes to both of these, then you have a bad duty c solenoid, which controls the power split front and rear wheels. do a search here for 'torque bind' or 'duty c' and read untill you fall asleep. or go to the dealer and have check it out.

i would still look for the pigtail plug at the left rear tail light first. if it's not there then this is one of the few real differences between legacy and outback. the consensus here is that all of the wiring is in place on all cars, but trailer hitch connections may be too optional.

they discontinued the 'all unlock' feature in 97. the seperate switch on the door will do it, but the key just does the single door. my 97 obw came with 98k miles, no remote and an alarm system (presummeably remote activated). i have a red indicator light mounted in a dash switch location left of the fog light switch. check for a horn or siren mounted on the passenger strut tower under the hood. i don't know for sure, but i think remote entry and alarm came together. as i said, i don't have a remote, but the one for my wife's company car ,chevy, makes mine go crazy. i cut the leads to the siren and told her not to use her remote.

if the hitch says it will fit an outback then it will fit a legacy of the same year. i don't remember the name brand of mine, but i had to drill a hole on each side, up from the bottom, to bolt it up. my hitch connects to the 2 existing 'tie down loops' in the rear, plus the 2 drilled holes into the frame. i had to remove the carpeted floor panels in the rear of the car to access the top side of the frame member. the floor panels come out if you remove the center plugs in the bottom of the 'socket' on each of the tie downs in the cargo area. the rear ones work slightly differently than the forward ones. i don't rememer the difference , but don't force them, they are plastic. accessing the frame members was a ' remove the plastic plug' deal, slide the bolt and bracket into the frame and fish it into the drilled hole. i used a coat hanger like a long tool to drop the bolt into the hole. the wiring is another story. the outback comes with a plug , behind the drivers side tail light, inside the access cover. i don't know about legacy but it's worth a look. then you buy the 'harness pigtail' from the hitch manufacturer for your car and it plugs right in. feed the wire down to the spare tire area (probably before you plug it in) and you're done. hang it out the hatch when you haul something. the exact harness will cost more, but it is really easy on the outback, the generic harness is cheaper, but you have to buy connectors and spend the time figuring out which wire goes where and then splicing them. all six? of them !! seems like a hundred. good luck john

there was also a thread last year about a sensor that would keep a car from starting. the driver found a solution, a cup of water on the front top of the engine, and then had the sensor replaced. the sensor was intermittent when hot. can't remember more. pretty strange, try the starter contacts .

my radiator cap leaked only after the engine reached operating temp. i never would have seen it (and we all know what overheating does to a 97 - 2.5L engine), i never would have seen it if i hgadn't let it idlw in the drive way for a while. so if you want to check your cap / cooling system, get it up to operating temp and let it run in your driveway. my leak was hard to see at the cap, it trickled down the side of the rad and dripped of. a new cap fixed it.

this sounds a little like when you remove the battery in a car with an alarm. try resetting the alarm with reset button under dash or maybe use door remote wit hkey in the ignition. i'm guess guessing. hopefully you weren't connected long enough to destroy any thing.

and 2 -3k$ for a new rear diff is outrageous. i think they cost 500$ new and less work to install than a trans, 300$ max. i don't think the mechanic knows subarus.

i don't think you can remove the whole shaft and drive the car, the front section of the shaft slides into a seal on the rear end of the (auto?) trans, fluid will leak out i think. the rear section you can remove and drive on.

it's been a whiole since somw one has asked this question. i was beginning to think that there weren't any more subaru virgins left.

maybe some slight hand braking to get the other rear wheel to grab. it shouldn't take much to stop the spinning rear wheel.

you are going to need 2 trans (or front diffs) and one rear diff matching the 'new' ring gear in order to have ready to swap. are the housings for the front diffs interchanceable from M/t to A/T? boy, that would save some work.

correct , the FWD fuse only works when the car is on. also, the rear wheels will spin by hand when the car is off and in park, but the rear shaft still turns the transfer clutches. so depending on speed and distance , you will damage that end. ps: there is an end wrench article about how to check if your front and rear diff match. has to do with jacking up one side of the car, disconnecting the main wiring connector to the auto trans, putting the car in neutral and starting it up. this setup puts the car in 'locked' 4wd in neutral with both wheels on one side in the air. mark both tires at the 6 oclock position. now as you turn the front off-the-ground wheel by hand, the rear one should turn exactly the same. turn the wheels by hand several revolutions, they should end up with the marks in the same position.

based on my research, everything with 2.5L and automatic. outback, legacy GT, leg LSi, 2.5L/auto, 96-99 at least, maybe all the way to 07?

i think changing anything in the front differential is A LOT of work. first you pull the trans, then you remove the lower shaft(?) then you seperate the case... then you start in on the gears. there are 3 final drive ratios related to the legacy / outback, 3.9, 4.11, 4.44. assuming all 3 share the same 9 tooth pinion gear, the differences are the ring gear, 3.9=35 teeth, 4.11=37 teeth, 4.44=40 teeth. so in theory it is possible. but as i said, A LOT of work. why not just buy a manual trans. legacy.?

i don't believe this is entirely correct, otherwise you counldn't put a 95 ej22 into a 97obw without swapping the ECU. it sound like you may have found your solution, congratulations. how about swapping in the 'other' ECU after you get it runnig just to see if it will work.

you've got a private message.

when did the ej22 adopt the 105k interval? i thought sometime in the late 90's. or was that change made after '00 when they stopped making the 60k belt? does the owners manual for the 98 leg 2.2 say timing belt at 60k?

i have one on my 96 leg wagon donor car. (it's sea? green) i don't know how it's attached. it's available if you are interested. i considereed it for my outback, but passed. my solution was to just swap the rear hatch and then paint it. the only thing you'd miss is the outback logo. but i never even looked at how it was attached. could be easy.

don't to forget to drain and refill. if something got out, something could get in.

check out # 34. is this it? 33) REAR MAIN SEAL 34) REAR MAIN SEAL RETAINER 35) PULLEY 36) OIL PAN 37) OIL PICK-UP 38) OIL PUMP 39) FRONT CRANK SEAL 40) INNER ROTOR 41) OUTER ROTOR 42) OIL PUMP COVER Description Year MSRP Price Core Price Your Price Rear main seal, impreza, legacy - 1.8l, 2.0l, 2.2l - 1.8L, 2.0L, 2.2L 95-05 $11.93 $8.59