johnceggleston

would the same be true for a legacy or an outback? or are they so much heavier that it wouldn't make a big difference. i'd be courious to know what a 2.5L engine in a legacy drives like. would there be much of a gain from the 4.11 final drive ratio? or again, is the difference so small it wouldn't matter? and what if it had 14" wheels? has anyone tried this?

which 4 exhaust valves were replaced? i thought these cars had 16 valves.

i would think if you are a dyed in the wool subaru owner , you'd go ahead and put the money in to the engine. even if the car or transmission dies, you'll have a good engine. the only reason i might consider not doing the gaskets or timing belt, if you drive so few miles that you'll sell/trade/wreck the car before it has a chance to wear out. i used to drive 30k per year, buying used, using it up and moving on (or handing down to my son). now i'm down to about half that. my fear is that i'll get tired of my car before i can use it up. but regardless, i'd prefer driving a subaru.

i bought one last year for my avalon off ebay. they arew rebuilders and do all kinds. look there. i don't remember price, but if i got it online instead of local i must have saved. after i installed it i took it to a front end shop for alignment and they went on and on about how it may not align right since it was a reman unit, but i've had no problems with it. good luck.

i have read here that they are interchangeable, but to a casual observer, they appear slightly different. the bolt head on the 97 2.5 is not visible, it's recessed or more hidden. on the 95 2.2 you can see the bolt head, this may not be significant... or maybe my 97 doesen't have a bolt holding the crank pulley on.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73926 94 for parts

yep, i had my subaru re-keyed to match my 90 nissan truck. one less key to carry.

rekeying a lock/ ignition cylinder is not expensive, i paid 20$ each. of course it's easier if you start with a working key. post on the wanted section for an igniton lock cylinder with key, or an ignition cylinder and matching door lock with key. swapping them out is also not too hard. the ignition lock is easy after you remove some plastic, i think an experienced mechanic could do it with out removiong the plastic or any screws. almost anyone who has a donor car has a spare one. also the ignition lock cylinder from early 90's nissan will fit. they are exactly the same.

found these , but i don't know if you have a wagon or sedan. also don't know if 03 - 05 are the same. i've heard that lots of front legacy sesats are the same 90 - 01? 2003 Seat, Rear Subaru LegacyTAN,CLO,TC 040A331050 $100 Ron's A & B Auto Parts Inc. USA-MD(Finksburg) E-mail 1-410-833-1123 / 1-800-869-9591 2004 Seat, Rear Subaru Legacy4D,CHAR-10,CTH A6J4766 $100 West Side Auto Parts USA-DE(Laurel) E-mail 1-800-323-3254

www.car-part.com plug in your model and year info and sort your search by distance, that way you may find one near by. DON'T BUY NEW!!! good luck.

get your money back and run!!! run very fast!!!!

i had a similar problem on my 97 obw. i swapped in a starter from a 96 leg donor car and evenually the problem came back. this led me to believe it wasn't my starter contacts (but both starters had 100k - to 125k miles, so who knows). so i tried the relay fix last spring and no more problems. my understanding was that there is an internal relay in the ignition system that gets weak and it doesn't send enough juice to the starter. i'm not sure. but if so, this may contribute to contact wear, or maybe the combination of the 2 issues is to blame, fix one and it works again. still , i'm not sure, but my starter is 100% now. thanks to skip, it was great help.

you shouyld be abel to buy one from the dealer, they can't be expensive. if you ask here on the 'wanted' site you will probably get several responses. in the mean time consider borrowing one off another door.

this smell could be a cv joint boot. check front right axle close to the trans. seems i've done this one on all my legacys (3). maybe the heat from the exhaust, maybe not. anyway check you cv boots.

i haven't pulled a heated mirror off but it has to have a second set of leads/wires for the heat element. 4 instead of 2 or 6 instead of 4???.

Legacy - TZ102ZAAAA - Impreza - TZ102ZA3BA - is this an outback sport? i THINK these trans will have the same rear ends, but i don't know alot about impreza. in legacys the 7th position indicates the engine size and this dictates the final drive ratio. all 90 - 99 legacy with a 2.2L engine had an 'A' in the 7th position. all 96 - 99 with a 2.5L engine and a '2' in the 7th position. (late 99 went to a phase 2 or a transitional version, it has a J in the part number but the final drive didn't change.) the one exception is the 96 -2.2L outback, it had the same trans / diff combination as the 2.5L outback. it is my OPINION that all TZ102Zxxxx trans are basically the same, the final drive ratios and the TCUs adapt them. my conclusions: (96 - 99 legacy) the last 4 charactures, 7 -10, in the part number tell the following: 7TH - final drive ratio; 2= 2.5L engine & 4.44, A=2.2L engine & 4.11 8TH - which year/version 3 is earlier than 5 (impreza uses numbers) and C comes after B (legacy uses letters). 9 & 10 - the model of the car AA=legacy, BA=outback (or apparently impreza, outback?), CA=GT in 2000 they started using the same trans part number in the legacy 2.2L as the impreza 2.2L. (impreza started using it in 99.) and of course the 2.2L legacy was soon phased out. i hope this helps.

so now you see my problem. inside the car's not safe, the rear bumper's not safe, the car top is maybe safer but still garranteed to come off if in a major crash. i guess in the long run that would be safer for me. so back to the drawing board. maybe a siphon hose, i'll have to try that. how much gas is too much to swallow.?

i hear the only thing nipper carrys when on safari is that liquid aluminum in a tube for all those pesky engine block repairs.

every time you turn around good ol' subaru figures a way to protect us from ourselves. and once again, if they designed it to cut out the AWD if the difference in speed is too great, then there's a reason for it. i don't know square waves from ocean waves, but it would be nice if only 60 or 70% of the pulses got to the tcu. based on someone's alternate front speed sensor (his speedo drive gear in the front diff failed) you could put and alternate sensor on the drive shaft / axel with only 3 magnets instead of 4. that assumes they are the same type of speed sensor and the it could be mounted. and of course that it wouldn't damage the car. regarding the TCU disconnecting the rear wheels: at start up , and this is a long shot, maybe the TCU would fully ingage the rear for lower speeds and then disengage at some point. if the tcu disconnect the AWD unit when would it come back on line, at next start up or whan the speed deceases.?? i think im' lost, where's the remote.?

i have a place in the country i go on weekends and i'm always carrying gas for the lawnmower, chainsaw, weedeater etc. when i drove my truck, having a gas can in the back wasn't a problem, but carrying it inside my 97 obw just STINKS. does any one have an idea how to tap into a fuel line (which one, where) on my wagon with a "T" and a valve so i can pump 5 gals out of the gas tank and into a holding tank? i'd like to avoid throwing a code, damaging the fuel system and blowing myself up. is this feasible? thanks for any suggestions, john

not to , but i had a thought about how to creat a switch that wouldn't throw a code or hurt your trans if left on. the down side to this idea is that i don't think it will "lock" your AWD into 4WD. at best it would give you 50/50 split and still allow for slipping / speed differential between front and rear. question / idea: instead of actually controlling the power / signal to the duty c, why not control the signal FROM the rear speed sensor. letting the TCU think the rear wheels aren't turning will fully ingage the rear wheels (50/50 split) and still allow for some slipping which will prevent damage. of course if you just disconnect the speed sensor you may get a code for that, but i bet you could put some kind of resistor on the circuit to prevent that. if you were really creative , you could use something that would allow a varible setting. you could actually adjust the power split. anyway, just a thought.

it will fit , but the style may be different. my 95 leg has foldable mirrors my 97 obw has fixed.

it happend to me on a 93 2.2 legacy and later i noticed similar symptoms on a 95 2.2 legacy. i had some keyway damage on the crank on the 93, but the shop was able to "glue " it back together. although i've learned since then there are better ways. when it failed i had to get towed, it would turn over ,but didn't even come close to starting. the sympton on the 95 was an apparent wobble on the crank pulley bolt. when i showed it to the mechanic he was very pesimistic. he didn't think there was much hope. but it turned out with a new pulley, and bolt plus locktite and 125 ft/lbs it was good to go. so all you guys who have used subys and you don't know who did the timing belt, check out the crank pulley bolt while it's running. if it wobbles or looks off center get it fixed before it fails. just my opinion.

go to www.car-part.com plug in your year make model... etc. they have lots of them. sort your search by distance and you may actually find one near by that you can pick up on a saturday morning. i can't remember the prices , but i think 35 - 75 is a safe bet. they are easy to to remove / install. 2 screws and 3 elect. connectors, after you remove the panel below the steering wheel (96 legacy). let us know how it goes. i'd love to know more about how they diagnosed it as the TCU.

it should be a 4.44, which is the same as any other 2.5L A/T 96-99. check the trans model # it should have a "2" in the 7TH position, TZ102Z2ABA. this '2' indicates a 2.5L engine and they all have the same rear diff, (96 outback was 2.2 or 2.5 but both used the same trans and diff ratio.)